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Looking to replace my 350, found this, input?

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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:24 AM
  #21  
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[QUOTEThis car has turned into a really stressful project and was meant to be my dream car/my baby.QUOTE]
Welcome to hot roddin man. Its that way for all of us


Happen to have a nice 4340 roatating assy for that with .040 Manley FT pistons, 6" Manley rods, etc.

REAL nice offer on that block. Half tempted to build me another if I could come across something like that.

Let us know what you do.

It will always take longer and cost more

Youll forget ALL about the stress once you turn the key for the first time. We all go through that its an incurable disease.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:38 PM
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Hey guys. Just curious if I got a 1 piece rear main what would I need to make that work? What new parts would I need
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:20 PM
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Zapawaf, some on here may think I'm nuts but your auto shop 350 deal might not be all that bad IF- you're not gonna run it to death and you're pretty much set against building your own motor. Building an engine isn't all that difficult but you absolutely have to perform all the little operations right or you will have problems. Aside from the -.010" crank the biggest red flag that I saw was the hyper pistons but I've had 'em in my 350 for almost 10 years now with zero problems and I've had no issues but I don't beat on it (seldom over 5000 rpm). For 1200 bucks you'd be getting a broken in motor that was put together by someone who was at least knowlegeable enough to teach a class....if you scrape together the right collection of parts and keep the machine work to a minimum you MIGHT be able to put one together for that amount but I'd be surprised....
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf
Hey guys. Just curious if I got a 1 piece rear main what would I need to make that work? What new parts would I need
I believe the one piece rear main seal blocks have their own flexplate. Also, most of them don't have the hole drilled for the fuel pump pushrod, so you can't run an engine driven fuel pump unless you have some machine work done. I think that's about it.


Scott
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
I believe the one piece rear main seal blocks have their own flexplate. Also, most of them don't have the hole drilled for the fuel pump pushrod, so you can't run an engine driven fuel pump unless you have some machine work done. I think that's about it.


Scott
What kind of fuel pump would you have to get?
And I have a manual so flexplate doesn't do anything for me if I understand the whole flywheel vs flexplate thing.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by birdsmith
Zapawaf, some on here may think I'm nuts but your auto shop 350 deal might not be all that bad IF- you're not gonna run it to death and you're pretty much set against building your own motor. Building an engine isn't all that difficult but you absolutely have to perform all the little operations right or you will have problems. Aside from the -.010" crank the biggest red flag that I saw was the hyper pistons but I've had 'em in my 350 for almost 10 years now with zero problems and I've had no issues but I don't beat on it (seldom over 5000 rpm). For 1200 bucks you'd be getting a broken in motor that was put together by someone who was at least knowlegeable enough to teach a class....if you scrape together the right collection of parts and keep the machine work to a minimum you MIGHT be able to put one together for that amount but I'd be surprised....

But you really should find out as much as you can about it before deciding.


Scott
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
I believe the one piece rear main seal blocks have their own flexplate. Also, most of them don't have the hole drilled for the fuel pump pushrod, so you can't run an engine driven fuel pump unless you have some machine work done. I think that's about it.


Scott
I don't mind spending more then 1200 as long as the project works out.
I just don't know where to begin, what exact specs I'd need for what.
If I had just a block what exactly would I need?
Is this all stuff I could do myself of does certain parts need to be machined? I wouldn't know if I did it all correct.

Would it cost a million dollars to buy the block and parts and have someone put it together?

This is why the long block appeals to me haha, less thought process behind it.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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Side note, that guy sold it on me and says he still has a 92 that'd he'd sell but it's a 1 piece rear, and I don't know if I want to go that route... Very disappointed.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:45 PM
  #29  
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Zapawaf, some on here may think I'm nuts but your auto shop 350 deal might not be all that bad IF- you're not gonna run it to death and you're pretty much set against building your own motor. Building an engine isn't all that difficult but you absolutely have to perform all the little operations right or you will have problems, and it helps to have a place to do it as well. If your auto hobby shop facilities are lacking it might not be the best idea. Aside from the -.010" crank the biggest red flag that I saw was the hyper pistons but I've had 'em in my 350 for almost 10 years now with zero problems and I've had no issues but I don't beat on it (seldom over 5000 rpm). For 1200 bucks you'd be getting a broken in motor that was put together by someone who was at least knowlegeable enough to teach a class....if you scrape together the right collection of parts and keep the machine work to a minimum you MIGHT be able to put one together for that amount but I'd be surprised....
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by birdsmith
Zapawaf, some on here may think I'm nuts but your auto shop 350 deal might not be all that bad IF- you're not gonna run it to death and you're pretty much set against building your own motor. Building an engine isn't all that difficult but you absolutely have to perform all the little operations right or you will have problems, and it helps to have a place to do it as well. If your auto hobby shop facilities are lacking it might not be the best idea. Aside from the -.010" crank the biggest red flag that I saw was the hyper pistons but I've had 'em in my 350 for almost 10 years now with zero problems and I've had no issues but I don't beat on it (seldom over 5000 rpm). For 1200 bucks you'd be getting a broken in motor that was put together by someone who was at least knowlegeable enough to teach a class....if you scrape together the right collection of parts and keep the machine work to a minimum you MIGHT be able to put one together for that amount but I'd be surprised....
He sold it
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:13 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf
What kind of fuel pump would you have to get?
And I have a manual so flexplate doesn't do anything for me if I understand the whole flywheel vs flexplate thing.
You would have to run some sort of electric fuel pump. I think an '82 Corvette fuel pump will work, and makes for a nice, professional installation without too much trouble. You would also need to have a regulator to bring the fuel pressure down to work with a carb. Overall, it sounds like an extra hassle and expense that you don't need right now.

I have an automatic, so that's what I concentrated on when I was looking at what needed to be done to put a one piece rear main seal block in my car, and I don't really know much about how manual trannys mate up to the engine, but if an auto needs a newer flexplate, a manual might need a newer flywheel, so definitely find out for sure before you make a decision.

For the record, if you need a relatively inexpensive, reliable engine, with a 3 year warranty, in a hurry, delivered, that can be installed with a minimum of hassle, I'm staying with my original suggestion:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10067353/


Scott
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf
He sold it
Well now, that changes everything, doesn't it?!? BTW, sorry about the repeat post. To answer your question about what you'll need otherwise, if you've got a block, you'll need a rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, wrist pins, rings, rod/main bearings), cam bearings, gasket set (head, intake, timing cover, front/rear seals, oil pan, exhaust) oil pan, oil pump, fuel pump, heads, (many choices there), camshaft, oil pump driveshaft, and freezeplugs. I think I got it all...how you get there can be answered many many ways...
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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year one CT350PC1 about $3200 delivered to your door
great company rep & warranty, real dyno sheet, streetable +400hp&tq, roller cam, roller lifters, new modern heads. Probably best crate value out there.

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/p...13VF73496&trk=

-add- above is a 1 piece rear seal ... requires different flywheel than OE C3 ... but new one at chain parts stores under $100 ... flexplate much less. Above is ready for your OE C3 fuel pump.

Last edited by jackson; Jan 31, 2012 at 10:11 AM. Reason: moinfo
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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Check this one out. Comes with everything but battery & fuel.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...9-P1427C2.aspx
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 10:45 AM
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FWIW, .010 undersize on a crank is no issue at all, nor are hypereutectic pistons. The risk with that engine was simply that it's impossible to know how well it was designed or assembled - relatively fresh overhauls sold at a significant discount always raise the question of "why?"
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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Are you sure that your current engine is dead or blown? Have you done (or have someone knowledgable do) an autopsy to see exactly what is wrong with it and what is still useable? I would know this info first.

Maybe ask the autoshop teacher/engine seller how much to rebuild your motor including finding a core block, if you really need one. I would remove and install the motor myself, if you are up to that, but maybe he could assist with that too. Also make sure he is building it and not his students.

Finally, call around to your local Chevy dealers and see if they can sell you a Goodwrench crate 350, may be able to beat the cost at Summit and pick it up local. Don't forget that some of those crate engines will need an oil-filter adapter mount and a harmonic balancer.

Good luck on you project, I have several of those right now.

Best,
Tom
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by chevygod
Are you sure that your current engine is dead or blown? Have you done (or have someone knowledgable do) an autopsy to see exactly what is wrong with it and what is still useable? I would know this info first.

Maybe ask the autoshop teacher/engine seller how much to rebuild your motor including finding a core block, if you really need one. I would remove and install the motor myself, if you are up to that, but maybe he could assist with that too. Also make sure he is building it and not his students.

Finally, call around to your local Chevy dealers and see if they can sell you a Goodwrench crate 350, may be able to beat the cost at Summit and pick it up local. Don't forget that some of those crate engines will need an oil-filter adapter mount and a harmonic balancer.

Good luck on you project, I have several of those right now.

Best,
Tom


Pretty sure it's cracked. I'm no expert, but that's my opinion
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Zapawaf

Pretty sure it's cracked. I'm no expert, but that's my opinion
Nah, that'll buff right out.

Carnage pictures are always fun, if painful...
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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that motor you found may be fine. I'd ask about the cam and what it was built for. and did the block come out of a boat or anything like that. the fact it has run in time is good. see if you can hear it run.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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yeah, you WILL need a block, reciprocating assembly and heads. Bout all you may be able to use is induction, exhaust, acessories, and maybe tin.

Sorry, that's a bummer.
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