I'm looking to replace my 350 out of my '79 4 speed manual.

Originally I had a motor listed here that was up for debate but the guy sold it out from under me.
The hunt continues!

 

"Just rebuilt" engines are always a crapshoot. What exactly is "stand behind the motor in writing"?

Do you have the casting numbers on the heads? Any info on the cam? I'd like to see the "all reciepts"...although I know that's not realistic.

Bottom line is that there's really not enough information for anyone to give any valid advice. You pays your money and you takes your chances.

 

When I say he will stand behind it I mean, he will write that it's in good running condition, and if it breaks on me he'll take it back.

It's just hard to find a motor with everything ready to go for a price even close to that.

 

Well, I can't remember the last time I saw a warranty so that's something.

I agree the price is attractive - but sometimes cheap can be expensive...

 

What do you mean, he'll take it back? You mean refund your money? Like a guarantee? How long of a guarantee? If it will be a proper legal document that will stand up, it sounds like a good deal. You need to know more about the engine, though. Is it really the engine you want? At least find out what it has for a cam.


Scott

 

How would something like this be if I used my existing intake and carb ect.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-45070/

 

Might want to step back for a minute and think about your goals and what your budget really is.

You can overhaul your existing engine with some nice upgrades for around $2,500 if you're careful and smart...

 

If I was smart I wouldn't have bought this vette off of a relative :P
Cracked block, all banged up. I have the 2nd half of my enlistment bonus, but I don't want to spend it all on the motor, I still need to save some for the interior and exterior makeover and any unforeseen problems that may come up. Plus registering in this state is ridiculous

 

I think what that engine amounts to is a $1200 GM Performance short block, with $900 heads, and a $100 cam & lifters. Lets say $200 for the rocker arms and pushrods. That leaves the valve covers. They look nice, but I don't think they are worth $1000.

On the other hand, you don't have to build it, or deal with any of the hassle of choosing parts, running around, or any of that crap. Just order it, and install it when it shows up. That's worth a grand all day long to some people. Any engine you buy assembled is going to have a markup. My Dad used to say something that sounds a lot like what Billla posted earlier, but it doesn't mean the same thing: "You pays your money, and you makes your choice."


Scott


Scott

 

Thanks guys for all your input. This car has turned into a really stressful project and was meant to be my dream car/my baby.
I'm not car sauvy, and this has been a lot of learn and go. Something like this just kills me because
1. Yea I'd like it to haul from a red right, but it's not necessarily practical
2. There's so much you need to know to make a perfect choice.

I'd love to have more hp/torque, but is 290-330 a huge difference? I drive a Corolla, I have no idea how much hp that has, I assume next to none haha.

Like most people I want performance but I don't want to pay for it :P

 

*grin* I have been there

Thanks for your service, by the way.

There are a bunch of options here depending on how much you want to spend, how much work you want to do and how quickly you want to be rolling.

There are less expensive long-blocks that will still offer pretty decent power. The quick answer to your question is that an honest 300 HP at the flywheel is pretty darn decent and correctly tuned will give you plenty of zoot.

The GMPP 350/290 isn't a bad engine at all for around $2K

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499529/

You can pick up a used Vortec long-block that you can likely overhaul VERY cheaply...or just run as it is. Would require a new intake and a few bits here and there...but likely on the road for < $1500.

You could tear down what you have (since it's dead) and see if you can grind the crank...resize the rods...reuse the heads...and all you need is a new (or used) block.

I have a known-good '010 4-bolt block that will clean up at .040 over that's yours gratis if you want to build something. Some folks think these are the Holy Grail and you get bragging rights

Since you're serving - I'll pick up the tab for truck freight and it hits your garage free.

 

...Soooo I keep finding different things...
Would anything from these guys be worth looking at?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/phoenixmuscl...&_sop=15&_sc=1
Their prices are pretty solid, have a good track record with their customers it seems, and they have warentees (although I don't know exactly what they are)

 

I think that the GM performance engines and pretty hard to beat when it comes to those power levels. For example this one
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...oductId=749874

That compression will allow for some boost the day you want more go and will last you many many miles and will probably even get a decent mileage. It's a pretty good starting point from where I stand.

Otherwise the block offer was very generous, I'm sure you could find a machine shop who could take care of the building and if done right end up with a ~300 hp complete engine for under $2500 given that your rotating assembly and accessories are ok.

The best of luck from someone elso who is building his first engine this winter.
/ Axel

 

Because there are so many budgets and so many different applications

Completely understand where you're coming from and some kind of longblock makes the best sense for sure.

I...am personally not a big fan of the Edelbrock crates. I generally don't like the head and cam choices, although they're a decent buy.

If I can suggest...setting a hard budget will help sort out the options a bunch. Until you honestly set a firm budget, the options are unlimited and it seems impossible to make a pick. I'd also say that it's the little stuff that kills you - fuel pump, linkages, fittings, brackets, etc....that's where things can go quickly sideways. So decide a hard number on what you really want to spend - in the framerails and running - and the options will narrow down pretty quick

 

Out of curiousity, I spoke with a guy the other day at summit who suggested this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12497698/ would that about cover the little things? or is there more to it then that...

Maybe tomorrow I'll head down to the shop we use and shoot the breeze with him about the cost of building one from the block up.
Doesn't hurt to ask.

 

That is a very nice...but very, VERY spendy...way to get all the stuff. You can probably reuse whatever's on the car right now.

As a replacement for money, a little degreasing, scraping, wirebrushing and a rattle can works pretty well

 

Back in the day we had an auto shop on base and a bunch of motor heads hanging around.
It should be a great source of info and help for you, and used parts too.

A lot of guys would love to help you put a new motor in your Vette.

Just a thought.

Ralph

Brilla's offer pretty darn good.

$100.00 pistons
$100.00 overhaul kit
$100.00 Bore block
$350.00 Valve Job
$200.00 Cam-lifters and chain and gears.
$1000.00 Beer for the crew

Then just move your stuff to the new block and press off and on the pistons.

To me this is do-able

Ralph

 

Hi,
If you're considering the offer of the free block, have a look on Ohio Crankshafts site. They have a 383 street rotating assembley for about $750, should give you a bit of extra go. Also hav a look on ebay, some of the bigger perfomance shops have some great specials on cam, lifter and timing sets. And don't forget to check the parts for sale on here, some great bargans around.

Doug

 

Are you active service now?

 

If you just need a new engine this deal is tough to beat:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-10067353/

Just pull your engine out and drop this one in. Simple, cheap, and effective. '79 'vette is one of the vehicles that GM will give a 36 month/100,000 mile warranty on this engine, which is nice. You can probably have it delivered right to the craft shop on post. It'll get you up and running for pretty short money, and be a good base for future performance upgrades.


Scott