i hear it is a MASSIVE PITA.
Heater Core Replace?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
cheap Insurance for what ? .... thin metal, poor fit,
build as cheap as you can/solder as fast as you can ?
I disagree, clean repair solder rebuild the orginal. the leaks are almost all ways,
at the hose connection from the hoses getting yanked around.
IF you currently have no problem, clean inside and out,
then reflow the solder joints and reinforced the hose connection area,with more solder,
pressure test to 20 psi. your ready to go.
build as cheap as you can/solder as fast as you can ?
I disagree, clean repair solder rebuild the orginal. the leaks are almost all ways,
at the hose connection from the hoses getting yanked around.
IF you currently have no problem, clean inside and out,
then reflow the solder joints and reinforced the hose connection area,with more solder,
pressure test to 20 psi. your ready to go.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 4
From: Springfield VA
cheap Insurance for what ? .... thin metal, poor fit,
build as cheap as you can/solder as fast as you can ?
I disagree, clean repair solder rebuild the orginal. the leaks are almost all ways,
at the hose connection from the hoses getting yanked around.
IF you currently have no problem, clean inside and out,
then reflow the solder joints and reinforced the hose connection area,with more solder,
pressure test to 20 psi. your ready to go.
build as cheap as you can/solder as fast as you can ?
I disagree, clean repair solder rebuild the orginal. the leaks are almost all ways,
at the hose connection from the hoses getting yanked around.
IF you currently have no problem, clean inside and out,
then reflow the solder joints and reinforced the hose connection area,with more solder,
pressure test to 20 psi. your ready to go.
Replace or rebuilding is still the same end result; A updated heater core.
With that I agree. If the old one looks ok and you don't see any hint of major damage then either solder it back to "new" or replace if your skills don't allow.
Of course most Rad shops can re-solder it and pressure test it as well. So maybe a better bet there.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 197
From: Loveland, CO
If you can get at it from the engine side (especially if the engine is out), go for it. Not sure on AC cars how to get at core. I just did it on my '69, big block, non-AC car and I don't want to do it again any time soon. Had to go from passenger inside on mine and once is enough. I sure screwed up when I didn't replace it a few years ago when I was doing a frame-off restoration on it.
Ralph.
Ralph.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
In case you don't know, the fact that the engine is out has little bearing on the significant labor involved in replacing the heater core as it is done from inside the car.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; Feb 3, 2012 at 03:34 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,435
Likes: 9
From: Kalamazoo Mi
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
FWIW, this is how I dealt with the heater core issue
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-69-w-ac.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...e-69-w-ac.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
In my '69 SB w/AC, you have to take the heater box (which contains the heater core) out from inside the car. It necessates the removal of the PS dash panel.
