Rainman,

I'm a little confused about your variac rheostat, would it be possible for you to show me what you mean on ebay? Or give a model number of what you have?

Also, how is it connected? Is the charger plugged into the variac, and the cables from the charger used to power the plating tank?

Thanks!

 

This is a great idea.
Steve L.
73 coupe since new

 

Glad I ran across this thread, I have lots of plating to do, and I am planning on the Caswell kit. Lots of good info, especially about the power supplies.

Love the photos of the headlight assembly Rainman!!!

Thanks guys!!

 

Here is a link to a Variac Transformer that I found. This one is a five amp model and I am not certain of its suitability for plating operations but it gives you an idea of what to look for.

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/...riac%2BTVT001#

 

My understanding is that the yellow chromate finish will naturally degrade just being in air over 3-5 years and become a dull zinc plated finish. Can anyone verify or debunk?

 

Hi 7T1,
A couple of years ago someone re-plated my master cylinder cap for me using the Caswell system. It turned out extremely well.
But now a few years later the 'wash' has really faded as you thought. I bought a Caswell system this past spring but haven't used it yet. When I'm finished with the phosphating and black oxide I'm doing I plan to dip the cap in the 'wash' solution and see if that brings the colors back.
What do you think?
Regards,
Alan

 

Well, I have no experience with 'home' plating. But, when I was researching that possibility, I noted that there was info on the colored dicromate coating that it just "evaporated" over time. I think you are right that the resulting surface is just zinc. But, in air, that outer surface of bare zinc will turn to zinc oxide (grayish outer surface), rather than shiny, clean zinc. So, you can't just put it in another chromate dip. I think you first need to either acid dip it to clean off the oxide layer, or replate some fresh zinc on the surface...but, like I said--I have no personal experience with this.

From the research I did, it just seemed futile to go to all the trouble of creating some great [new] looking parts...only to have them fade away just due to time in the air. So, my personal choices became: 1) buy new parts and clearcoat them; 2) create a faux-plated surface with various types of paints. Below is a photo of my engine compartment. The master cylinder cover was 'new' but clearcoated; the wiper door actuator drum was faux-painted to look like yellow dichromate. The latter part can easily be recognized as being painted, by those who really know this stuff; but most folks don't know the difference.



And, as you well know, I don't plan on having my car judged for "originality"....even though it is much more 'original' (meaning that it has a high percentage of the actual parts that came with it from the factory) than MOST folks who actually receive Top-Flight NCRS awards. [I'm just sayin'.... They don't have to be parts that were original to that car for anyone to garner NCRS awards.]

 

I too was discouraged to read that plating would fade over time so I decided to go the faux finish route. Here's a couple of pictures.
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You did an awesome job restoring those parts!!

 

For a good 'daily driver' car, that looks pretty darn good. And, it will stay that way for many years.

 

Rainmaninwa,

I also am a neighbor in Wa. Monroe to be exact. I would like to come over and check out your operation. I am in the put together mode also on my 1970 vette conv. If possible my e mail wiecek@comcast.net

Thanks
Ron

 

Well I'm also a neighor I'm in N. Seattle. But as I'm Lazy I'd like to send the parts to have somebody else do them. I had some Parts done for a Motorcycle Project at a shop at Pane Field and was disapointed with the results. I'd like somebody who is Corvette resto savy. They really don't need to be local, as I'd probably ship them anyway.

 

What paint product did you use for the faux finish? How did you prepare the part for the paint

 

How do you replate a wiper vacuum cannister, to keep the solution from getting inside the can?

 

Hi JE,
Since the body of the actuator should be sealed, (if the crimp is still good), I plan on plugging the 2 nipples to keep the solution out.

As far as a paint product... there are several possibilities... there's now a gold cad product in a single can, and there's the Eastwood system which is 4 different cans, or you can come up with your own combination.
I used silver, copper, blue, and green. I think the trick is to use as little paint as possible. I first spray the actuator with silver, then dust on the copper in most but not all areas, then in just a few places the blue, then in just a couple of places the green, and then back to just a tiny bit of silver in a few places. You actually want a 'blotchy' look
The idea is to have a very varied color that matches the rainbow seen in the actual 'wash'.
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks for the reply Alan. Who makes the single can yellow cad product.

Thanks
Jim

 

FWIW, I used Dupli-Color GOLD!!! on my quadrajet's throttle linkage that looked pretty chewed up. It's not a great match for gold cad but if you're just looking for something nice that will last...



Someday, when I have more $$ and more space I'd like to get into plating as well.

 

I used the Eastwood cad system. Like Alan says it is a 4 color process.

 

Hi Jim,
I not positive, but try:

Branden Enterprises
PO Box 511 Trevose, PA. 19053-0511
215-327-4926

Regards,
Alan

 

HI Guys,

Do any of the forum members do this off to the side? I have alot of parts that need this.

Thanks Again

Mark