learje

forgive me if this is a stupid question...but theres a 454 block for sale nearby, studded mains and heads, bored 60 over, honed, decked and o-ringed. price is right, but i cant find much info about o ringed blocks other than they are used for racing engines, where the heads are pulled often. can blocks with this mod be used without o rings and standard gaskets?

im still planning my 496 build, and wondering if i should consider this block.

thx!

BLOCKMAN

On 454 blocks .060 over its a good idea to sonic test the cylinders for thickness as I seen a few that were not good for at .060 over.

If its the figure 8 type O-ring you could just go with a MLS gasket you should be fine, If its just on the edge of the cylinders you may want to pass.

Should find out what the deck height is befor you buy it also what size the bore is exactly.

Tom454

Clearance issues (e.g.- power brake booster) with engine compartment components can be a problem when removing/installing the heads with the engine still in the car with head studs. Also, head removal with studs can be a little bit more difficult with because there is no way to get lateral movement to shear the gasket if it is stuck hard. That's just my own experience. Not speaking for everybody. Personally, I like head studs.

DRIVESHAFT

What thickness do you consider good?
I have never heard of a 454 that wouldnt go .060".
Is this possibly just a late model block thing?

Ben Lurkin

60 over? Run, don't walk away. You'll need to bore it again. You can build a 700 hp engine with a 2-bolt main that will hold up just fine. There's lots of those around here for $200.

BLOCKMAN

.250 Its the earlier blocks we see more issues with the later block seem more consistant because of better casting and better machine work. Lifter bore placement in some of the older blocks are not very good compared to the late ones.

Its alays one cylinder which is bad making the block not useable for a performance build.

That why I take the time sonic test every OEM block that comes through the door.

Dave27

O-ringed blocks are used mostly with Blowers and Superchargers.

DRIVESHAFT

That explains the difference.
Most people that I have gotten an opinion from have said .200" is good.

learje

thx everyone, sounds like this block isnt for me - heck without gettin technical i think toms point about pullin the heads w studs is a biggie, as i have power brakes.

also, sounds like i should look for a later block vs an older one. blockman i know its meaningless without checking each individual block, but is there a rule of thumb for whats generally the oldest bock i should look for?

also, if 'most' blocks can only go 60 over, why are folks building 496s' off the bat? why not go 489 which i believe is 30 over and save a bore for the future?

thx!

DRIVESHAFT

I'm not telling you to buy the block, but head studs are easily removed, especially before the engine is assembled.
They just screw in like bolts.

BLOCKMAN

Any of the older blocks are only as good as the thinist cylinder, If needed I have one a customer abandond it sonic tested fine for a .060 over build, Only been line hone with studs and the cam tunnel has been correct and is .010 over.

PM me if intersted.