When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Is there suppose to be a washer for the long bolts that drop through the top of the Q-jet to attach it to the manifold? I thought I kept everything together when I removed it, but it has been over a month since I removed it and now I can't remember. Bolt and top of carb does seem like a happy mate.
Washers are always a good idea regardless. They safeguard against the head of the bolt digging in and the even;y distribute the force and give you a more accurate torque reading where needed.
Is there suppose to be a washer for the long bolts that drop through the top of the Q-jet to attach it to the manifold? I thought I kept everything together when I removed it, but it has been over a month since I removed it and now I can't remember. Bolt and top of carb does seem like a happy mate.
They did not originally have washers. Most over torque the bolts and they dig in to the carb top.
Check the service manual and torque as specified and you should have no problem.
Hi w,
The Aim agrees with Bill, no washers were used originally.
Be careful with the torque... the AIM calls for 24-48 lbs INCH, NOT lbs FOOT, for the bolts and nuts first. Then, to 120-168 lbs INCH.
The sequence is left-front/right-rear, then right-front/left rear. Then repeat.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Washers are always a good idea regardless. They safeguard against the head of the bolt digging in and the even;y distribute the force and give you a more accurate torque reading where needed.
I agree! Washers were not original, but I like to use them to distribute the load.
Well, washers weren't there from the factory....but the bolts were "flanged-head" type, which [for all practical purposes] is a hex-head bolt with a flat washer built-in.
If you don't have the 'stock' flanged-head bolts, use a standard hex- head bolt with a flat washer.
I remember reading a post from Lars who said that the engine suction alone should keep the carb tight on the manifold when running. Obviously, you need bolts, but they don't need to be tight. Just enough to stop them undoing via engine vibration. For this reason, I prefer to not use washers and let the natural friction between the hard bolt and soft carb do the work. Just my $0.02 worth.