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Hello all! I have been looking at this forum for a few days now and really like what I see and hear, so I have decided to join. I have a question that may have been asked already, but I haven't seen it. What do you guys think about the points eliminator kits? Has anyone installed them?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Welcome!
Points or not will surely start a lively debate.
I started with points, read a few ads about how wonderful points eliminators were, got brainwashed, and tried them (Pertronix).
No difference, not more HP, no better mileage and some indicated that if the eliminator failed it meant a tow home and a wait for a replacement.
I went back to points.
best thing since hot buttered popcorn, doesnt do anything for hp , but does increase reliability. BTW an HEI from a pre computer car fits perfect and only requires one wire to hook up, if you want to save your oe dist.
I ran a Hayes points eliminator kit on my 69 for around 20 years and just upgraded to an Accel 300+ ignition box. The trigger in the distributor from the Hayes kit is still being used by the Accel box and it's all been flawless since day one. My new system, and most other modern ones, have a rev limiter built in and that's real nice to have if you ever run the car hard. I grew up having to adjust points and timing on a regular basis to maintain top performance and I don't miss doing that at all.
Hook up any other kit besides a Pertronix Ignitor II or III wrong and you will fry them (including the Ignitor I.) Ignitor II or III will also not fry if you leave keyswitch in run position, most others will. Throw an Ignitor on a worn out old disstributor with a broken ground wire to the points mounting plate, and it won't perform very well. Take the time to bring the distributor back into decent condition and it will run well for many years.
Do a cylinder balance test with the coil wire pulled out of the coil and have the high energy spark jump out of the coil tower to the 12VDC negative terminal and you can kill any trigger system where points would survive. Just thought I would put a little rubbing in there to my buddy, he knows who I'm talking about......
electronic conversion kits do absolutely NOTHING but cause you to spend money.
NO increase in power
NO increase in gas milage
LESS overall reliability than points
NO local parts availability so if the module fails you are stuck on the side of the road until you get a new module or re-install points
BUT what you did gain was the appreciation of the vendor you spent your money at buying the useless thing and on a somewhat positive note you will save yourself approx 5-10 minutes a year no longer having to check your dwell like you should do once a year on your points.
If you feel that saving 5-10 minutes a year of your time is worth the cost of the electronic conversion kit and are willing to live with a less reliable ignition system than by all means buy one.
If you insist on eliminating your points ignition than at the very least step up to a tach-drive HEI distributor and forget about those electronic conversion kits that otherwise do nothing for you.
I had one of the original Mallory Unilite systems years ago and got about 3 years out of it before it failed. I suspect the later units are more reliable based on the experience of others on this forum.
I put a Pertonix 1 in my '66 and its been there for years. The only advantage is I don't mess with points any more. I always hated them, I can't help but agree with the guys who worry about the reliability. If points give you trouble on the road, you have a chance of getting things working again. If your electronic setup fails, you have a bigger problem.
I guess it depends on which set of problems you would rather have.
I question those that infer that points are 'not reliable'. Perhaps they mean 'not durable' which is a very different parameter.
Points need a once a year adjustment in dwell, or maybe once in 3-4 year replacement for the average occasionally driven car. If ignored, performance will degrade slowly until such time that the car will not start or will run very poorly. The breakerless kits on the other hand fail suddenly and usually completely, albeit this is now rare on the latest units.
Since there is NO performance advantage, I'll stick with points and simply check the dwell once a year.
Three new sets of points,three failures within several miles,the last set simply fell apart.If you can find a decent set anywhere,sure they may be reliable...I put in the Pertronix and haven't been stuck yet.
I use the best of both worlds, the Mallory HyFire IV.
We run points, but they only act as a switch to trigger the ignition box that sets the duration. The duration is a function of the box (~45 degrees) and has little to do when the actual duration opening and closing of the points. Also, because the points only act as a switch, they don't arc and burn.
If the box ever fails, a jumper plug by-passes it in under a minute. The points can go so far out of adjustment that the car won't start or run on them, but plug in the box and all is good again.
While many will tell you that a set of good points can make as much power as a good electronic ignition, that is only true when the points are in good condition and properly set. Once they start to burn and go out of adjustment, that all changes.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Les
I ran a Hayes points eliminator kit on my 69 for around 20 years and just upgraded to an Accel 300+ ignition box. The trigger in the distributor from the Hayes kit is still being used by the Accel box and it's all been flawless since day one. My new system, and most other modern ones, have a rev limiter built in and that's real nice to have if you ever run the car hard. I grew up having to adjust points and timing on a regular basis to maintain top performance and I don't miss doing that at all.
I put that same Hayes system in my '69 in 1974. Ran fine for about 9 years, then started to break up under high throttle load (I suspect the switching transistor). Contrary to urban myth regarding electronic ignitions, it did not suddenly die. It just got progressively worse under load. I took the unit apart intending to fix it, but the internals were all potted up and it was next to impossible to get at the circuitry. Next option: I noticed on an oscilloscope that the Hayes VR sensor in the distributor put out a signal almost identical to the waveform in production HEI distributors. I hooked up a spare HEI module to the distributor, and it worked great, and has been flawless in my '69 since 1983. In the slim event that it would fail, any auto store or junkyard has replacement modules available, dirt cheap.
Contrary to urban myth regarding electronic ignitions, it did not suddenly die. It just got progressively worse under load.
Mine most certainly died with no warning, no different than if I'd turned the key off. Being in the middle of nowhere on a nasty day made for a memorable experience. I understand that the gradual deterioration that you experienced may possibly more typical.
I have installed many pertronics kits for customers who think you have to electronic ignition for performance and relablity but I have points in my personal cars never any problems in 36 years of driving corvettes.
Mark