Bought an 82 today, more on that later.......
have 2 slight problems which I will also check the "search", but running out of time for the day......
so if anyone has experienced this, it will be greatly appreciated for any info.......
It seems that when I go to start the 82, it may not start at all, I mean nothing. I have to put the T&T wheel either up or down to find the right position for the starter to engage. Then sometimes it will start right-a-way after I shut it off, and other times it won't.
So is there some kind of short or loose or pinched connection in the steering column that is causing this? Also the horn is not working, just wondering if these 2 items are tied together?
Thanks for any info..........................Tom

 

It won't be a short because the ignition switch is further down the column below the tilt. You have something going wrong: bad ignition switch, broken ignition rack, bad drive gear, or a bad tumbler. I'm guessing when it won't do anything you move the column around and then it works?
Mike

 

Mike, thanks for the reply....when you stated..."I'm guessing when it won't do anything you move the column around and then it works?"

yes that is exactly what happens.....so I would imagine it will be process of elimination......
what would you suggest, or can you guide me to any info on how to pinpoint exactly what it is?
again, thanks...............................Tom

 

The ignition switch is on top if the column up under the dash. The key operates the switch via a rod that connects the lock assembly to the switch. There is probably a problem with the rod, or the switch. I'm guessing the switch, and moving the tilt column around is changing the travel of the rod so the switch works. My best guess is the switch contacts are worn or dirty and not making contact consistently.

 

excellent answer

 

The most common problem is people release the tilt and let the column slam up. This usually breaks the rack. The rack has a curved slot in it in which the rod rides. So that when you move the column up and down it doesn't move the rod.
First thing to do is remove the dimmer switch. It is bolted on top of the ignition switch. Remove the 5/16 bolt first. Then remove the nut. Lift the dimmer switch off the stud. Reinstall the 5/16 bolt but don't tighten it. Loosen the stud, also 5/16. Be sure the key is in the tumbler. Slide the switch towards the firewall approx 1/16 and tighten both the bolt and the stud. Try to start it. If it works fine every time then you have a bad switch.
Install the new switch. There will be a green plug in the switch that looks like a golf tee. Leave it in there. This is for setting the switch. Lower the switch onto the rod aligning the rod with the hole in the switch. Keys out of the tumbler. Install the 5/16 bolt first but don't tighten. Install the stud and tighten. Remove the green t from the switch. Remove the bolt. Position the dimmer switch over the stud and install the dimmer rod. Install the nut and bolt. Using light pressure push the dimmer switch towards the steering wheel with just enough pressure to remove slack in the rod but not depressing the switch. Tighten the bolt first and then the nut. See if it starts and check the headlights.
Mike

 

Turn on the headlights when you have the problem and see if they dim badly or stay brightly lit when you try to crank the car over. If no change in the lights, then you likely have a problem with your 'neutral start switch'...preventing the starter solenoid from getting power to it from the ignition switch.

 

thanking everyone for the replies.....have not performed the testing for the steering column as mentioned above, had some other issues to correct as well.
We got the passenger side power window to work...needs switch

while in the door, found the pigtail for the PDL to be bad..need new one

horn not working....seems like horn relay is bad....every time the horn stops working and you tap or squeeze the relay, the horn works again

took out battery, cleaned and filled and did trickle charge, only needed a little....

starting the 82, is doing the same, either hit or miss, actually good for theft prevention....
will perform the items listed and get that problem corrected soon....

still have more to do, will post pics in a different thread tomorrow......
all-in-all, a nice driver, having fun...feels good to be back in a C3 once again as a DD......... Tom

 

still have the starting issue with the wheel, as I been doing other things like getting the door to open and close, etc. so I still have to go through the testing procedures as mentioned above.....but in the meantime, I have found out that the steering column has to be all the way down and actually put pressure on it to start the engine.


another new issue or two:
1- trans does not lock in the Park position with key out of the ignition, so that needs to be addressed.

2- when starting the engine today leaving work, started right up, stalled after about 5 seconds and heard a buzzing sound from under the car. restarted no problem, felt like it wanted to stall again after about 5 seconds, but did not, any thoughts on that???

checked manifold bolts and they are tight, checked vacumn hoses, some may need to be addressed.

and I am assuming that the flap door in the air cleaner is supposed to be operational!!!!

thanks again for any input........