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I removed the original stamped steel covers from my 1980 L-48 to replace the gaskets. There were seven bolts with external-tooth lock washers, and one stud (male threads on both ends) with no lock washer. There were no load spreaders, and all fasteners were barely more than finger tight, even though the covers had been dimpled at the bolt holes. The rubber gaskets were about the composition of an Oreo cookie. No surprise, really, given how badly the oil was leaking.
I have new Fel-Pro gaskets, which came with spreaders. Using the spreaders with the bolts I removed does not leave even one thread to grab the holes in the heads, so I bought eight longer bolts. Covers have been hammered flat again (to remove the dimples) and repainted.
Now my questions: Are lock washers necessary for valve cover bolts? If the covers came from the factory with load spreaders, the bolts with captured lock washers cannot be original, they are way too short.
The stamped steel covers should have those wing shaped load spreaders under each bolt head. The aluminum valve covers did not have them. NCRS cars would not have lockwashers. But if you want to add lockwashers, it couldn't hurt anything. Adjust your bolt length accordingly.
Thanks for the prompt replies. It sounds like the short bolts I took off are not original. What about the stud? Did GM use anything like this on valve covers?
lots of folks use the studs to retain the v/c gasket during installation, again its your choice, some of the mid year engines had two per side.
but they were used to retail other things, like spark plug seperators
Thanks for the prompt replies. It sounds like the short bolts I took off are not original. What about the stud? Did GM use anything like this on valve covers?
No. Niether of those bolts/studs are stock. I believe, on your year, Chevrolet used just 1/4-20 X 3/4 hex head capscrews. And when you torque 'em down, just use a screwdriver type nut driver, and snug them only hand tight. You can easily over tighten them with a ratchet.
You need the 'load spreaders' under the retaining bolts on stamped-steel covers, just so the cover rail won't dimple under the localized load of the bolt head. Without them, I think it would be difficult to get those valve covers to seal properly.....unless you want to use sealant/adhesive to goop them up really well first.
Thanks to all for the inputs. I used the Fel-Pro load spreaders with 1/4-20 3/4" hex bolts, no lock washers. Bolts were torqued to 40 in-lbs. per the shop manual. I could not stand to put the covers back on as nasty as they were, so I did a quick repaint. 48 hours process, including a couple trips to the store for hardware and paint. The whole excursion under the hood has raised more questions, I'll post them in separate threads. Here are some pics:
Before:
In Process:
After:
Last edited by indydoug; Mar 25, 2012 at 09:01 PM.
I am mid way thru doing this same project. I have wider spreaders that came with my last set of gaskets. They are twice the length of the stock set. I have used sealant in the past with excellent results. I plan on using it again. Good thing too. When I pulled these valve covers the bolts were loose. I plan on really cleaning the theaded holes but I may also try a small bit of loctite or nylon insert bolts.
When I bought the car the gaskets were always leaking oil on the manifold and it made the whole car smell terrible.