Keisler reproduction titanium-aluminum alloy Bell housing
#21
Melting Slicks
I hate to keep sounding like your dad, but the NHRA, who knows a little something about safety, won't let you on the track without a scatter-shield if you're running less than a 12 sec ET.
The calculators tell us that in good conditions, it only takes 400 rear wheel HP to propel your 3500 Vette (you in it) to a 12 sec ET. 400 HP is child's play in the 21st century. You may not be there yet, but you will always be looking to add HP if you're anything like the rest of us.
Laslty, should you ever do bonsai's with a passenger in the front seat, a blown flywheel or pressure plate could ruin their day too.
You already need a bellhousing. Spend the extra few dollars. Here's a good choice (for an 11" clutch), but there are several nice options:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTI-RM-6022/
The calculators tell us that in good conditions, it only takes 400 rear wheel HP to propel your 3500 Vette (you in it) to a 12 sec ET. 400 HP is child's play in the 21st century. You may not be there yet, but you will always be looking to add HP if you're anything like the rest of us.
Laslty, should you ever do bonsai's with a passenger in the front seat, a blown flywheel or pressure plate could ruin their day too.
You already need a bellhousing. Spend the extra few dollars. Here's a good choice (for an 11" clutch), but there are several nice options:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTI-RM-6022/
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; 03-26-2012 at 10:49 PM.
#24
Race Director
+1 on the Quicktime scattershields. They're by far the nicest I've seen. Much lighter than Lakewood, better access to the bell housing bolts, and usually dead on alignment-wise so you don't need offset dowel pins.
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Looking at the Quick time bell housing and I have a small concern:
If you look at the picture of the bell housing mating surface the inner ring for the transmission has been cut.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTI-RM-6022/?rtype=10
Now, if you look at the picture of my T10 transmission you can see that the transmission is quit narrow and it looks as the bell housing will be exposed to any elements because the transmission will not cover the bell housing cut out surface.
Is this bell housing suitable for my T-10
If you look at the picture of the bell housing mating surface the inner ring for the transmission has been cut.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTI-RM-6022/?rtype=10
Now, if you look at the picture of my T10 transmission you can see that the transmission is quit narrow and it looks as the bell housing will be exposed to any elements because the transmission will not cover the bell housing cut out surface.
Is this bell housing suitable for my T-10
#26
Team Owner
This is probably the best deal on the block. If you want the res paint and the SFI (Sticker) it is only $100 some more dollars
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-77-150/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-77-150/
#27
Burning Brakes
Dont worry about the bell being open to the elements. I have an RM-6022.
You cannot and should not put a clutch fork boot on so that the bell can breathe. The Bell with block saver completely closes off the bell except for the fork opening.
I spoke with the quicktime guys about putting a fork boot on it and they said DONT. You want air to get in there.
From Ross McCombs at quicktime
"No clutch boot available. We recommend leaving this open to allow air flow to the clutch. The velocity of air coming from this opening during operation will not allow any debris to enter this opening. By closing this hole on an SFI bellhousing will prevent airflow and make the clutch operate at a much higher temperature which will shorten the life and operation of the clutch. "
You cannot and should not put a clutch fork boot on so that the bell can breathe. The Bell with block saver completely closes off the bell except for the fork opening.
I spoke with the quicktime guys about putting a fork boot on it and they said DONT. You want air to get in there.
From Ross McCombs at quicktime
"No clutch boot available. We recommend leaving this open to allow air flow to the clutch. The velocity of air coming from this opening during operation will not allow any debris to enter this opening. By closing this hole on an SFI bellhousing will prevent airflow and make the clutch operate at a much higher temperature which will shorten the life and operation of the clutch. "
Looking at the Quick time bell housing and I have a small concern:
If you look at the picture of the bell housing mating surface the inner ring for the transmission has been cut.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTI-RM-6022/?rtype=10
Now, if you look at the picture of my T10 transmission you can see that the transmission is quit narrow and it looks as the bell housing will be exposed to any elements because the transmission will not cover the bell housing cut out surface.
Is this bell housing suitable for my T-10
If you look at the picture of the bell housing mating surface the inner ring for the transmission has been cut.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTI-RM-6022/?rtype=10
Now, if you look at the picture of my T10 transmission you can see that the transmission is quit narrow and it looks as the bell housing will be exposed to any elements because the transmission will not cover the bell housing cut out surface.
Is this bell housing suitable for my T-10
#29
Melting Slicks
This is probably the best deal on the block. If you want the res paint and the SFI (Sticker) it is only $100 some more dollars
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-77-150/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-77-150/
#30
Instructor
I'm calling Bull-Shxx on that quote. Cop-out answer. Although I fully understand the need for airflow cooling, leaving it open is just trading one risk for another. That guy clearly doesn't live in the country, (woods and gravel roads). Id give it a month before that clutch was smothered with Mouse guts. This is why they invented "screens". I consider it almost irresponsible for a manufacturer not to make one. They can make a $300 add-on window, but not a screen boot? When someone pays $700 -$1000 for something they really aren't looking for DIY fabrication to the part. I agree the QT product looks like fine workmanship, but that's no excuse for not making a boot. Why do they make a boot for the Lakewood?
Dont worry about the bell being open to the elements. I have an RM-6022.
From Ross McCombs at quicktime
"No clutch boot available. We recommend leaving this open to allow air flow to the clutch. The velocity of air coming from this opening during operation will not allow any debris to enter this opening. By closing this hole on an SFI bellhousing will prevent airflow and make the clutch operate at a much higher temperature which will shorten the life and operation of the clutch. "
From Ross McCombs at quicktime
"No clutch boot available. We recommend leaving this open to allow air flow to the clutch. The velocity of air coming from this opening during operation will not allow any debris to enter this opening. By closing this hole on an SFI bellhousing will prevent airflow and make the clutch operate at a much higher temperature which will shorten the life and operation of the clutch. "
#31
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
When the times comes, I'm getting an SFI bellhousing. I don't care how much it costs.
Watch this video and then make up your mind:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJtJUVyEyYY
Watch this video and then make up your mind:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJtJUVyEyYY
Even with a steel FW know theres a risk, clutches can come apart at idle or low speeds and do serious damage;its rare but happens
Didnt like spending the money buying a scattershield but didnt like holding my breath wondering, block saver a plus too!
It only takes once, (like laying a bike down on the fwy)not worth it
Last edited by cv67; 06-09-2017 at 12:39 AM.
#33
Instructor
Yes, but still relevent. And why this topic is frustrating. The Boot cover problem has existed for over 5 years, you'd think the manufacturers would have solved the problem by now. :-( (or a third party manufacturer, as there is clearly a market for one)
But I do not mean to negate the value of the products though. There are very few options out there, but all appear to be well respected.
I need an SFI bellhousing. The delima isnt whether to buy one, its which one to buy, and the best way to cover the hole.
(im probably gonna fabricate a steel frame around screen fastened with screw rotating clamps on inside.)
Quicktime 6022 (Steel)- Pros: ligthtweight (18lbs), easier install w/ probability of near perfect aligned out of the box, streamlined footprint with optimal clearance and bolt access. Cons: minimal metal around bolt holes could be more suceptable to cracking, more expensive ($680-$1000 w/ window).
Lakewood 15000lkw (steel)- Pros: Solid as a rock everywhere, has boot, less expensive ($450-$550 w/ boot). Cons: heavy (weight?), harder install because more probable that it could need aligning with dowel pins, minimal clearance to access bolts.
Mcleod 8530 (aluminum, titanium liner) = Pros: super light (13 lbs), appears very streamlined (like the quicktime), one model fits all trans, with swappable plates to protect the investment, has inspection window, most expensive ($1050)
The MCleod is looking better and better for only $50 more. But at half the cost, the lakewood is hard to ignore. Cant go wrong with Quicktime but, without slave mounts, requiring hydraulic bearing, I'd think the window would be almost essential, bringing the cost almost to that of the mcleod.
But I do not mean to negate the value of the products though. There are very few options out there, but all appear to be well respected.
I need an SFI bellhousing. The delima isnt whether to buy one, its which one to buy, and the best way to cover the hole.
(im probably gonna fabricate a steel frame around screen fastened with screw rotating clamps on inside.)
Quicktime 6022 (Steel)- Pros: ligthtweight (18lbs), easier install w/ probability of near perfect aligned out of the box, streamlined footprint with optimal clearance and bolt access. Cons: minimal metal around bolt holes could be more suceptable to cracking, more expensive ($680-$1000 w/ window).
Lakewood 15000lkw (steel)- Pros: Solid as a rock everywhere, has boot, less expensive ($450-$550 w/ boot). Cons: heavy (weight?), harder install because more probable that it could need aligning with dowel pins, minimal clearance to access bolts.
Mcleod 8530 (aluminum, titanium liner) = Pros: super light (13 lbs), appears very streamlined (like the quicktime), one model fits all trans, with swappable plates to protect the investment, has inspection window, most expensive ($1050)
The MCleod is looking better and better for only $50 more. But at half the cost, the lakewood is hard to ignore. Cant go wrong with Quicktime but, without slave mounts, requiring hydraulic bearing, I'd think the window would be almost essential, bringing the cost almost to that of the mcleod.