I need to replace them on both sides. I was reading a techincal help article on one of the other sites. If I read it correctly, it said to just place the jackstands on the lower control arms as close to the hubs as possible, then disconnect hub and replace the ball joints. Is this correct or do I need to also use a spring compressor?

 

1) Place the car on jackstands

2) Remove shock absorber

3) Place a jack under the end of one lower control arm

4) Remove the cotter pin from the lower balljoint attach nut and loosen the nut 1 1/2-2 turns

5)Position the jack pad so it is just barely touching the end of the control arm under the balljoint

6) Break the interference loose on the balljoint by separating it with a 'pickle fork' and sledgehammer.

7) With the end of the control arm firmly supported now by the jack, unscrew the balljoint attach nut the rest of the way.

8) SLOWLY lower the jack, allowing the lower control arm to swing down and out of the way while the spring extends and falls out of its pocket.

9) Unbolt and remove lower control arm, put it in a vise, and replace the balljoint.

10) Reassemble in reverse order. Unless you're incredibly strong and/or persistent you will likely need a spring compressor to get the spring back in.

11) Repeat procedure for opposite side.

12) Enjoy favorite beverage...

...You could concievably support the car with stands under the control arms, but it's really not very safe. If the car falls on you you will probably die. better to get the arms off of the car and change the balljoints on the workbench. Unless they've already been replaced they are riveted on with big hairy steel rivets that have to be drilled out. Much better to have them clamped into a vise for drilling...

 

I'm with birdsmith up to a point.

Skip step two.... it is just added work

Use # 5 to replace step 3 Only have the jack about a 1/4 inch below the A-arm

Skip the part in # 8 about removing the spring..... It is just added work

Skip # 9 why remove the lower A-arm? It is just added work

The lower ball joints are a bolt on. The uppers are rivets if they have never been replaced. Just grind the rivets of and punch them out with a hammer and punch

 

GKull, my 63,000 mile '70 still has the OEM balljoints on it...riveted on. I'd much rather unbolt the arms and drill those buggers off on the bench than laying under the car. If OP's are bolted on then by all means do them on the car...less work.

 

I just sit on my carpet Just grind the rivets off and punch them out with a hammer and punch

 

Hi CK,
Regardless of the method I use I always err on the side of caution.
I chain the spring to either the lower control arm, chassis, or upper control arm until the compression has been released.
IF something slips in just the wrong way.... your head, the fender, the ceiling, and the roof, won't stop the spring depending on how much compression is left, and which direction it flys or bounces.
You can do it safely, but be careful!
Regards,
Alan

 

Completely agree. I just did the job about a month ago. Before I lowered the jack to release spring tension I threw a chain through the spring and then around the lower A arm with enough slack to let the A arm all the way down but not so much that it wouldn't catch the spring if it came flying out. Fiberglass work sucks much worse than suspension work... dental and cranial work sucks even worse than that...

 

Chain is a must on this one. All about Safety. Other than that, pretty easy and straight forward job.

 

Does the spring tear the shock off on it's way out. You guys are making this job way too difficult. I probably do at least one ball joint removal a month and I change Vette springs at the tracks. There is no reason to remove the shocks or springs to do upper and lower ball joints. If the shock doesn't extend enough to let the lower arm down for the ball to clear the spindle. Then just take the nuts off of the top of the shock.

If you are doing both pop the lower ball joit first

 

i just rebuilt my front end and it was a first for me.i took all the excitement out of this job by making a homemade spring compressor that threads through the shock mount, and by tightening the bolt you compress the spring and make it impossible for it to fly out.

 

Using your method of leaving the shock and spring in, do you have to compress the spring to get the nuts on the the new ball joints? I plan on doing upper and lower. Will also throw a chain in there for safety.

Thanks.

 

It doesn't matter what I say about chains and spring compressors vs the person using a floor jack under the a-arm.

Way back in the 80's I bought 550# front spring and was told to get a spring compressor. Even being young and dumber and never seen a spring change done before. I thought what a wasted effort. I returned it un used. After years of working in the shop this forum was the first time I ever even heard of unbolting the lower A-arm. I get paid to change springs. Sometimes when the car has only done a couple of laps we change springs in the hot pits and we have the car back out in a very short time.

Discussions on the internet is kind of like the special olympics, your still special!

 

You know that the springs you are dealing with, including the 550 ones, are much shorter released than the oem stock springs, Completely different ballgame. None of them, including the stock long ones, will go anywhere when removing them because of the pocket, but you won't get a long stock spring back in without compressing it a bit.
I've done hundreds over the years and still use a compressor on the long ones. Only takes about 3 minutes per side.

You can't blame anyone for being too safe with something they have never done before.

 

Where did I ever say anything about the spring NOT being compressed?

 

My uppers are bolt in so they have been changed at some point in the past. Found a note on the back of the last alignment saying the car was aligned, but the BJs were shot.

Questioning why the lower control arm must be lowered. If the weight of the car is being held up by jackstands under the LCAs the spring isn't going anywhere. Can the upper BJ be popped and the UCA raised out of the way to allow the LBJ to be popped and hub moved to the side to facilitate replacement of both BJs?

Still trying to determine what brand I should use for replacement. Having no luck with the Muskegon Brake site, any other sources for XRF? Local shops are recommending the NAPA premium ones. They any good?

 

I like MOOg ball joints

 

I understand changing springs to mean "out" and "back in".

 

If you want to use that tool again, please change out the threaded rod to 3/4". The rod you have there looks too thin.
You know we worry about you because we care.

 

gcusmano74 i checked the threads on the rod after use and found no stress damage but i would have to agree with you on repeated use.this tool is dismantled and will be retired.thanks.

 

Removed the springs several times on my 66 327 no AC several times with no problems. Used the same method on my 71 LS5 W/AC and FACTORY springs (long height, many coils, high rate).... ended up in the hospital. They can and will just "pop" out given the right circumstances. The heavier FACTORY big block springs are a different animal than any others. Now I know. Be careful regardless of which spring/method you use.
I'm lucky to still have my right hand. It was thoroughly crushed.