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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #21  
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That's very nice of you but i think i'm going to just stick with the 4 speed and try to keep in budget this time even though that's never how it goes

But i'm in the process of ordering a trans and they are thinking i need to go with the M22 but they need to know my rear end gears. How/where do i look to find this out? Is it coded in the VIN or in the door jam?

Thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:56 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 73 454
But i'm in the process of ordering a trans and they are thinking i need to go with the M22 but they need to know my rear end gears. How/where do i look to find this out? Is it coded in the VIN or in the door jam?

Thanks
You don't want or need an M22. No '73s came with them. Sounds like your shop is being very generous with your wallet.

The standard M20 wide ratio is what the majority of Corvettes came with. A small number came with the close ratio M21 which some people think is 'cool' and something to do with 'racing'. The M20 is the much better choice for everyday street driving and cruising.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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My issue is that it's not a stock 454 anymore. It's probably running close to 450 flywheel hp and 500lb/tq (ish) So i told them that (5speeds.com) and they thought i should go with the M22.

I'm just going to buy a new trans and eventually have the numbers matching one rebuilt and wrapped in plastic to sit in the corner of the shop. I just didn't know what you guys thought is all
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 73 454
My issue is that it's not a stock 454 anymore. It's probably running close to 450 flywheel hp and 500lb/tq (ish) So i told them that (5speeds.com) and they thought i should go with the M22.

I'm just going to buy a new trans and eventually have the numbers matching one rebuilt and wrapped in plastic to sit in the corner of the shop. I just didn't know what you guys thought is all
A lot of people here have much more motor than you and are running M-20's and 21's with no problem.

What's a new trans cost these days?
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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I think it's $1675 for the m21 and i'm not sure how much the M22 is to be honest with you.

http://www.5speeds.com/muncie.htm
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Hello again,

I agree with the "M20 or M21 are good enough for you. M22 not needed." answers. Especially with normal street driving. The question I have is that since you basically 'blew up' the old tranny - how did you do that - driving into the driveway or driving out of the water box at the drags?

If you are really buying a "new" 4-speed transmission (for $1600.00, it better be a new one) either from Summit or someone else, it will probably be a version of a 'Super T10'. That tranny is stronger than the original Muncie and just fine for any performance driving, short of all-out drag racing.

They come in various ratios. If you have a low rear-end (3.08, 3.36, etc) pick a tranny with a 2.56 or 2.88 first gear. It will be much nicer to drive away from a stop, like stop lights, etc. If you have a higher rear-end (3.55, 3.70, etc), the 2.43 or 2.56 will be fine. A 2.20 first gear won't be undrivable, you'll just have to slip the clutch a little more to get going. Not a problem, just a little bother.

Several ways to determine rear-end gear:
- a stock rear-end case will have a letter (or 2) stamped on the bottom that tells the ratio (you'll have to find a list of letters and corresponding ratios).
- or jack up the rear, support the car appropriately, put a chalk mark on the driveshaft, have a friend make notice where the valve stem is on the tire, have him rotate the tire one turn, and count how many times the chalk mark on the driveshaft goes around. Right at 3 times is a 3.08, a little more is a 3.36, half way around is a 3.55, a little more is a 3.70.

Hope that helps.
Good luck.
walt
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #27  
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By blew it up i mean i got on it on a straight road ran it through third gear and when i went to down shift to come to a stop it clunked grinded and sounded like hell then i had no first gear at all.

All i'm going to be using the car for now is just cruising on nice days/evenings with the occasional getting on it from time to time. I thought about ordering the trans from https://www.5speeds.com/store/html/4speeds.html

As you can see the M20 has your recommended gear ratio. I think my vette has a 3.08 or 3.31. I could of swore i read that somewhere with my combo of BB/4sp but i can't remember.

If i shouldn't spend that much money does anyone have a recomendation on where to get a new trans from?
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 02:47 PM
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Make sure you get an upgraded case and midplate.
Check this out:
http://www.tbtrans.com/muncie_4_speed.htm
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 01:29 PM
  #29  
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Bummer on the blow-up. Sometimes they just wear out and give up.

My "it better be new for 1600.00" comment was just because there are new T-10 transmissions out there for around that price. For ex:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RMG-1304000070/

If their trans (5-speeds.com) is new - not "re-built like new" - also, then no problem.

You don't really know what gear is in the rear-end unless you check. Not a big deal, just the more you know..... 1973 was a long time ago; a lot could have happened/been done with your Vette.

Anyway, good luck.
walt
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 04:52 PM
  #30  
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Typically the ew Richmond T10s are only rated at about 325 ft lbs. I think the upgraded muncies (thicker case, 1" countershaft, midplate upgrade) are quite a bit stronger.

http://www.richmondgear.com/07pdfs/RG26.pdf
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 11:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by wzschirnt
Hello again,

I agree with the "M20 or M21 are good enough for you. M22 not needed." answers. Especially with normal street driving. The question I have is that since you basically 'blew up' the old tranny - how did you do that - driving into the driveway or driving out of the water box at the drags?

If you are really buying a "new" 4-speed transmission (for $1600.00, it better be a new one) either from Summit or someone else, it will probably be a version of a 'Super T10'. That tranny is stronger than the original Muncie and just fine for any performance driving, short of all-out drag racing.

They come in various ratios. If you have a low rear-end (3.08, 3.36, etc) pick a tranny with a 2.56 or 2.88 first gear. It will be much nicer to drive away from a stop, like stop lights, etc. If you have a higher rear-end (3.55, 3.70, etc), the 2.43 or 2.56 will be fine. A 2.20 first gear won't be undrivable, you'll just have to slip the clutch a little more to get going. Not a problem, just a little bother.

Several ways to determine rear-end gear:
- a stock rear-end case will have a letter (or 2) stamped on the bottom that tells the ratio (you'll have to find a list of letters and corresponding ratios).
- or jack up the rear, support the car appropriately, put a chalk mark on the driveshaft, have a friend make notice where the valve stem is on the tire, have him rotate the tire one turn, and count how many times the chalk mark on the driveshaft goes around. Right at 3 times is a 3.08, a little more is a 3.36, half way around is a 3.55, a little more is a 3.70.

Hope that helps.
Good luck.
walt
My trans is stamped with a B and i thought that was the "close ratio" And i think 1st gear is 2.20. I'm going to crawl under the car to see if i can see the stamp for which gear it is. and if not i'll turn the tire
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #32  
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http://www.5speeds.com/newm22.html

http://www.tbtrans.com/muncie_4_speed.htm#muncie_faq


Also what would be the dif in these trans. They both say they have the same stuff but dif prices? Just didn't know if someone has delt with one in the past or not.

I talked with 5speeds.com and they said their M22 was $1975.

Thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #33  
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I've bought parts for both Muncies and T10s from T&B, good company to work with.
5 Speeds looks like they drill/tap the countershaft so it's better supported. Not sure how critical that is.

Last edited by Garys 68; Apr 23, 2012 at 01:20 PM.
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