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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Default Trans ?'s

I have my trans out of the car(73 454 4sp) and need to get it rebuilt. The numbers on the case are 3925661. I just need to know what it is so i can be sure to get the right parts coming for it when i know what's wrong.

Thanks
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:40 PM
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The suffix code is part of the build date. A M20; B M21; C M22.

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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 03:56 PM
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where the hell are these letters? The numbers on the back towards the output shaft are 3978764. unless i'm missing reading or the letter is warn off the last "1" could be an A depending on where the letter's are placed.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 04:08 PM
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that's the casting number for the tailhousing not the transmission, check this link

http://www.5speeds.com/casting.html
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Hi,

If you go to the link above, click on the "click here for info" at the top. It brings up some pics. The top left pic shows a stock and an "improved" case. On the stock case, on the flange at the back where the tailshaft bolts up, is a stamped (not cast) number. On a "numbers matching" tranny (original), that stamped number will be part of the vin and the letters that tell what tranny it is - M20, M21, M22. Hope that helps.

walt
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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Alright i was finally able to clean her off good and find what you guys are talking about. It's the letter "B" so now i know what i'm looking for. Thank you guys so much for the help. Now time to build her up and get it back on the road.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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If the trans is original the VIN derivative number should be stamped on the case also. Good info to have if you ever decide to sell the car.



Rick B.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:23 AM
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http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm

according to this my casting number should be "3925661" and my number on my trans i could have sworn it was "3978764" so what does that mean?

Also how do i know if it's a wide ratio or close ratio M21?

Thanks!
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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You'll need to check the input shaft for the number of rings.
Or you could remove the side cover and try to count gear teeth number (not easy).
Or you could put it in first, crank the engine over 1 revolution by hand and cont the number of driveshaft revolutions (2.2 or 2.5)
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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I guess i also need some advice on what i should do. I busted up the teeth on the top long set of gears as well as the lower solid unit. And in doing so i took out a chunk towards the rear of the case and my trans guy said i may need to look into just buying a new trans cuz he couldn't gaurantee how long it would last if i wear to be "hard on it"

So i guess i'd like some insite on what you guys think i should do. Should i just order another 4sp to put in there and rebuild the number's matching one and put it in the corner in plastic? Or should i try to put a 5sp in there? or is there anyone out there that is running a 5sp and had troubles doing so? the car is going to be my nice evening/sunday cruiser so no long road trips.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 73 454
http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm

according to this my casting number should be "3925661" and my number on my trans i could have sworn it was "3978764" so what does that mean?

Also how do i know if it's a wide ratio or close ratio M21?

Thanks!
Using "Corvette by the numbers", the M21 is a close ratio. The 3978764 number is the extension housing number. The main case number should be the 3925661 number.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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it's 26 input shaft splines.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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If you busted gears and damaged the case, you probably stretched it between the input and countershaft holes. Rebuilding with the original case will probably fail.
If you have a relatively low rear end ration, 3,08, 3.31 etc and you're on a budget, buy an upgraded muncie with supercase and upgraded midplate. If you've got a high rear rear end and some extra cash, go for an OD Richmond or Tremec.
Btw it's the number of rings around the input that tell close vs wide.
http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 73 454
http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm

according to this my casting number should be "3925661" and my number on my trans i could have sworn it was "3978764" so what does that mean?

Also how do i know if it's a wide ratio or close ratio M21?

Thanks!
The link you've quoted answers all the questions you've asked. Where's the confusion?
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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Are there any issues as far as fitting goes with the richmond 5 speeds or tremec? Will it bolt up with my bellhousing and the crossmember just right? And does anyone recomend a shop to purchase one of these units?
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:07 AM
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I went with a Richmond 6 speed. It bolts to your existing bellhousing, you can use your current clutch linkage and driveshaft.
Only mod was the crossmember trans mount. Cost was about $3k from SDparts.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:22 AM
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And there were no mods to the interior? What kind of mod is needed on the crossmember mount?
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Garys 68
Or you could put it in first, crank the engine over 1 revolution by hand and cont (sic) the number of driveshaft revolutions (2.2 or 2.5)
Actually, I think it's the other way around.

And circumferential rings machined on the input splines are only on factory installed input shafts.

Last edited by 69 Chevy; Apr 14, 2012 at 11:36 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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I should never post before finishing my first cup of coffee.

Originally Posted by 69 Chevy
Actually, I think it's the other way around.

And circumferential rings machined on the input splines are only on factory installed input shafts.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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No interior mods. If you buy a 67 hurst shifter handle, it will even look like the Muncie inside.
If you have a non-removable crossmember, cut it!!!! I did mine with the crossmember in place, what a pain....live and learn. Hell I think I would cut it out even if I was swapping for another Muncie.
The muncie is mounted to tongue that extends forward of the crossmember. The Richmond will sit just forward of the crossmember without the tongue and needs to be lowered. I've seen pics of modding the crossmember putting the mount about 1/2" lower. Easy to do with the crossmember out. I just made a rubber trans mount that was 1/2" shorter than stock since my crossmember was still in place.
I've got pics somewhere if you're interested.
Originally Posted by 73 454
And there were no mods to the interior? What kind of mod is needed on the crossmember mount?
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