Headlight switch electrical connection needed
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 634
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From: Hastings MN
Headlight switch electrical connection needed
The electrical connection for the headlight switch is melted (and duct taped back together...) Can someone point out where to buy this? Its the connection on the far left of the photo below - you can see the duct tape. The other two pictures just show the part that's melted rather than the whole connection.
One more thing - what bulbs do I want for under the dash (it looked like there were two types)? I might as well change them out while its open...
Thanks!
One more thing - what bulbs do I want for under the dash (it looked like there were two types)? I might as well change them out while its open...
Thanks!
Last edited by yel76low; Apr 10, 2012 at 01:19 PM.
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
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Joined: Apr 2009
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yel76low,
You've got one more issue to deal with after you source that connector housing. You will probably need to replace your head light switch. What caused that burned connector plug is called "thermal runaway" and that occurs when you have high resistance over a high amp circuit. I've spent many hours on the phone with Mark Hamilton of Mad Electrical, which is easy to do because he is VERY long-winded and likes to talk, but his advice is second to none and everything he says is useful and has a purpose. My headlight switch connector looks JUST like yours. What I found were loose prongs on the headlight switch which caused an inefficient connection and eventually high heat and damage to the connector and to the prong mounting surface of the switch. The same thing happened to my blower motor switch. The plug was burnt badly as well as the wire on a single connector inside the plug and sure enough, I can wiggle that same prong on the switch with my finger.
The dash of my 70 is completely out as I track down Bubba varmints. I took these photos last weekend when I was working just for documentation.
My headlight switch: I'm keeping the plug. The connector is sound and the wire is healthy. Just the plug housing is a little burnt. Once I get my new headlight switch and determine that there are no loose prongs, the problem will be solved.
And just to edify, these photos below are my blower plug connector and switch from Classic Auto Air. Not old at all, but this loose prong caused a TON of resistance and burned not only my plug housing but the wire down one inch past the housing! Serious fire hazard here!
Blower motor plug:
Prong on bottom of blower motor switch. Even if my finger was not there pointing to it, it's obvious which prong is loose:
You've got one more issue to deal with after you source that connector housing. You will probably need to replace your head light switch. What caused that burned connector plug is called "thermal runaway" and that occurs when you have high resistance over a high amp circuit. I've spent many hours on the phone with Mark Hamilton of Mad Electrical, which is easy to do because he is VERY long-winded and likes to talk, but his advice is second to none and everything he says is useful and has a purpose. My headlight switch connector looks JUST like yours. What I found were loose prongs on the headlight switch which caused an inefficient connection and eventually high heat and damage to the connector and to the prong mounting surface of the switch. The same thing happened to my blower motor switch. The plug was burnt badly as well as the wire on a single connector inside the plug and sure enough, I can wiggle that same prong on the switch with my finger.
The dash of my 70 is completely out as I track down Bubba varmints. I took these photos last weekend when I was working just for documentation.
My headlight switch: I'm keeping the plug. The connector is sound and the wire is healthy. Just the plug housing is a little burnt. Once I get my new headlight switch and determine that there are no loose prongs, the problem will be solved.
And just to edify, these photos below are my blower plug connector and switch from Classic Auto Air. Not old at all, but this loose prong caused a TON of resistance and burned not only my plug housing but the wire down one inch past the housing! Serious fire hazard here!
Blower motor plug:
Prong on bottom of blower motor switch. Even if my finger was not there pointing to it, it's obvious which prong is loose:
Last edited by brando1118; Apr 11, 2012 at 02:06 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Hastings MN
I couldn't find the switch recepticle on Willcox - only the switch. But, I wiggled the connectors, and they seem tight. Based on that I was planning on only replacing the recepticle.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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Oh, sorry.
You mean the connector to the headlight switch. That's a tough one. I had a similar request for my blower motor switch and got nothing. I was lucky and Classic Auto Air sold the plug with wire extensions. Maybe Lectric Limited or you may get lucky with Dr. Rebuild. He's got some obscure stuff. Best bet is to get an old wiring harness from a 69 to 73. I think they are all the same. If your switch cooked your connector, get a new switch too. Doesn't matter if there aren't any loose prongs. High resistance is happening at that connection.
Good luck!
You mean the connector to the headlight switch. That's a tough one. I had a similar request for my blower motor switch and got nothing. I was lucky and Classic Auto Air sold the plug with wire extensions. Maybe Lectric Limited or you may get lucky with Dr. Rebuild. He's got some obscure stuff. Best bet is to get an old wiring harness from a 69 to 73. I think they are all the same. If your switch cooked your connector, get a new switch too. Doesn't matter if there aren't any loose prongs. High resistance is happening at that connection.
Good luck!
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
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From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I have both.. 20.00 for the pair, used original connectors. I'm sorry they are not on the site but you can order both by calling 800-588-3883 tomorrow between 9-5 eastern time. (and just so you all are aware, I have almost every connector you could want from 63-82).
Willcox
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 271
Likes: 25
From: Buena Vista Colorado
yel76low,
You've got one more issue to deal with after you source that connector housing. You will probably need to replace your head light switch. What caused that burned connector plug is called "thermal runaway" and that occurs when you have high resistance over a high amp circuit. I've spent many hours on the phone with Mark Hamilton of Mad Electrical, which is easy to do because he is VERY long-winded and likes to talk, but his advice is second to none and everything he says is useful and has a purpose. My headlight switch connector looks JUST like yours. What I found were loose prongs on the headlight switch which caused an inefficient connection and eventually high heat and damage to the connector and to the prong mounting surface of the switch. The same thing happened to my blower motor switch. The plug was burnt badly as well as the wire on a single connector inside the plug and sure enough, I can wiggle that same prong on the switch with my finger.
You've got one more issue to deal with after you source that connector housing. You will probably need to replace your head light switch. What caused that burned connector plug is called "thermal runaway" and that occurs when you have high resistance over a high amp circuit. I've spent many hours on the phone with Mark Hamilton of Mad Electrical, which is easy to do because he is VERY long-winded and likes to talk, but his advice is second to none and everything he says is useful and has a purpose. My headlight switch connector looks JUST like yours. What I found were loose prongs on the headlight switch which caused an inefficient connection and eventually high heat and damage to the connector and to the prong mounting surface of the switch. The same thing happened to my blower motor switch. The plug was burnt badly as well as the wire on a single connector inside the plug and sure enough, I can wiggle that same prong on the switch with my finger.
A set of headlight relays will significantly reduce current flow through the headlight switch and related connectors AND improve voltage at the headlights. A cheap, simple, reliable, and reversible mod. Here's a thread on this forum that includes the wiring diagram I used:
Headlight Relay Wiring
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 634
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From: Hastings MN
This is only 1/2 of the switch connector.. There are two.
I have both.. 20.00 for the pair, used original connectors. I'm sorry they are not on the site but you can order both by calling 800-588-3883 tomorrow between 9-5 eastern time. (and just so you all are aware, I have almost every connector you could want from 63-82).
Willcox
I have both.. 20.00 for the pair, used original connectors. I'm sorry they are not on the site but you can order both by calling 800-588-3883 tomorrow between 9-5 eastern time. (and just so you all are aware, I have almost every connector you could want from 63-82).
Willcox
Also I'm looking for the lower clutch connecting rod and pin (the lowest one, connecting to the throw out arm) and a set of bulbs for under the dash. Do you have this stuff too?
And shipping to 55033?
Thanks
