window rolls slow?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
window rolls slow?
I am getting very frustrated
Driver window, new rollers, cleaned tracks, new grease, new motor, new motor gear, new power switch, volt meter check...
The window still rolls up and down slowly. I have the top of the door bolts slightly loose and no matter how I position the window it still goes slow. It does go faster with the engine running since it has more volts going to it vs the battery.
Where should I start? I don't think it will even roll up with the new seals on the door. I had the same problem when I took the door apart....
Help?
Driver window, new rollers, cleaned tracks, new grease, new motor, new motor gear, new power switch, volt meter check...
The window still rolls up and down slowly. I have the top of the door bolts slightly loose and no matter how I position the window it still goes slow. It does go faster with the engine running since it has more volts going to it vs the battery.
Where should I start? I don't think it will even roll up with the new seals on the door. I had the same problem when I took the door apart....
Help?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
it sounds like you dont have a good ground or 12 volts going to it .make a ground jumper wire and put it close to the window motor .try the window .if it does the same thing then try a 12 volt jumper from the battery to the motor .
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Any wiring that has a 'lick' of continuity will show 12vdc on a voltmeter. What matters is whether that wire can carry an adequate amount of current to power the window motors under load. For a 'power' circuit to work properly, both the power 'in' (12 v.) and the ground lines have to be in good condition, have adequate size, and need good/solid connections. If any of those things aren't present, the motor won't run well.
If the motors run at all, the problem is not likely to be motor related.
If the window operating switches are old, they are likely corroded and/or have burnt contacts from years of use and arcing when activated. Corrosion and burnt contacts raise the resistance of the electrical circuit...that, by default, lowers the amount of current that can be drawn through that circuit. Same is true for any weak/bad connections elsewhere in the circuits. Just replacing 'stuff' with 'new stuff' doesn't always solve the problems.
If the motors run at all, the problem is not likely to be motor related.
If the window operating switches are old, they are likely corroded and/or have burnt contacts from years of use and arcing when activated. Corrosion and burnt contacts raise the resistance of the electrical circuit...that, by default, lowers the amount of current that can be drawn through that circuit. Same is true for any weak/bad connections elsewhere in the circuits. Just replacing 'stuff' with 'new stuff' doesn't always solve the problems.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
Any wiring that has a 'lick' of continuity will show 12vdc on a voltmeter. What matters is whether that wire can carry an adequate amount of current to power the window motors under load. For a 'power' circuit to work properly, both the power 'in' (12 v.) and the ground lines have to be in good condition, have adequate size, and need good/solid connections. If any of those things aren't present, the motor won't run well.
If the motors run at all, the problem is not likely to be motor related.
If the window operating switches are old, they are likely corroded and/or have burnt contacts from years of use and arcing when activated. Corrosion and burnt contacts raise the resistance of the electrical circuit...that, by default, lowers the amount of current that can be drawn through that circuit. Same is true for any weak/bad connections elsewhere in the circuits. Just replacing 'stuff' with 'new stuff' doesn't always solve the problems.
If the motors run at all, the problem is not likely to be motor related.
If the window operating switches are old, they are likely corroded and/or have burnt contacts from years of use and arcing when activated. Corrosion and burnt contacts raise the resistance of the electrical circuit...that, by default, lowers the amount of current that can be drawn through that circuit. Same is true for any weak/bad connections elsewhere in the circuits. Just replacing 'stuff' with 'new stuff' doesn't always solve the problems.
Well said
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 276
Likes: 2
From: Parkesburg PA
I have the same issue with my 77. They go up and down much better when I give it a little gas. They don't go up at all if the car isn't running. I have a big cam and the GEN light is usually on at idle. Either way, they move slow den when revving the engine. Do you think this is also switch related? I can try to short the wires at the switch and see.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
when you are running off the battery you have 12 volts .when you rev it up, the alternator should be putting out about 14 volts .that would be why your windows work a little better when you rev it up .i would check my wiring ,but you should check that your battery is good and has a good charge .i also would check the batterys connections.
Last edited by terry82; May 29, 2012 at 08:44 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 276
Likes: 2
From: Parkesburg PA
when you are running off the battery you have 12 volts .when you rev it up, the alternator should be putting out about 14 volts .that would be why your windows work a little better when you rev it up .i would check my wiring ,but it you should check that your battery is good and has a good charge .i also would check the batterys connections.
Everything (except the switches)is brand new including the wiring harness. That's why I'm leaning toward the switches.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
I think I will have to re-wire. I did everything in the door new/rebuilt because the rollers were broke and tracks clogged.
I took a wire from the positive side battery and ran it to each contact on the motor.... it works like it should.
I took the 12v battery wire to the switch and sometimes it worked but not full power. However, I took it to the brown and dark blue wires and same problem. Some place a wire is bad.
I think I will re-wire the whole thing.... least I know it will be done right.
I think a 12v to a 30a/12v breaker to the switch then new wires ran for each door.
Before I do all that I am going to see if I can remove the old contacts from the power window connector and make sure they are perfect.
I took a wire from the positive side battery and ran it to each contact on the motor.... it works like it should.
I took the 12v battery wire to the switch and sometimes it worked but not full power. However, I took it to the brown and dark blue wires and same problem. Some place a wire is bad.
I think I will re-wire the whole thing.... least I know it will be done right.
I think a 12v to a 30a/12v breaker to the switch then new wires ran for each door.
Before I do all that I am going to see if I can remove the old contacts from the power window connector and make sure they are perfect.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
Found the start of the problem. I started cutting the tape on the wiring harness and found the brown wire melted into some black wire. Still not perfect so I am sure there are other breaks in the harness.
These breaks are from someone half a$$ing a wiring job someone did.
Also, I found a pink wire sticking out from the front of the fuse box right where the power window breaker is.... I am sure that is not suppose to be like that??
These breaks are from someone half a$$ing a wiring job someone did.
Also, I found a pink wire sticking out from the front of the fuse box right where the power window breaker is.... I am sure that is not suppose to be like that??
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Are your window switches new ones or old ones? If 'old ones', have you disassembled them and cleaned the contacts well? If you have not, that is likely your biggest problem.
Also, the 30a. circuit breaker is NOT a relay. It is [essentially] a "fuse" for the system. The current for operating the window motors flows through the switches after it comes from the breaker. Could the circuit breaker be the limiting factor on current flow? Hmmm... I've not been inside one of them to know for sure, but I think it unlikely. You could always "jumper" the power across the circuit breaker's terminals to see if the window speed improved. If it does, let us all know....that would be a 'new one' on me.
Also, the 30a. circuit breaker is NOT a relay. It is [essentially] a "fuse" for the system. The current for operating the window motors flows through the switches after it comes from the breaker. Could the circuit breaker be the limiting factor on current flow? Hmmm... I've not been inside one of them to know for sure, but I think it unlikely. You could always "jumper" the power across the circuit breaker's terminals to see if the window speed improved. If it does, let us all know....that would be a 'new one' on me.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
Are your window switches new ones or old ones? If 'old ones', have you disassembled them and cleaned the contacts well? If you have not, that is likely your biggest problem.
Also, the 30a. circuit breaker is NOT a relay. It is [essentially] a "fuse" for the system. The current for operating the window motors flows through the switches after it comes from the breaker. Could the circuit breaker be the limiting factor on current flow? Hmmm... I've not been inside one of them to know for sure, but I think it unlikely. You could always "jumper" the power across the circuit breaker's terminals to see if the window speed improved. If it does, let us all know....that would be a 'new one' on me.
Also, the 30a. circuit breaker is NOT a relay. It is [essentially] a "fuse" for the system. The current for operating the window motors flows through the switches after it comes from the breaker. Could the circuit breaker be the limiting factor on current flow? Hmmm... I've not been inside one of them to know for sure, but I think it unlikely. You could always "jumper" the power across the circuit breaker's terminals to see if the window speed improved. If it does, let us all know....that would be a 'new one' on me.
Bubba has already tried to jump the circuit breaker. I found the pink wire jammed into the fuse box from the front. I added a new CB just to be sure it was not that.
I found the problem.... The brown wire is for the motor and black goes to something. I fixed those and still have the same problem but not as bad. I figure there are more breaks in the main harness :-(
I removed duct tape from the wires, found wires with cuts in them with no protection.... why why why would someone do that... why
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Ignorance, laziness, and/or stupidity would be my suggested answers to your [rhetorical] question. Just remember that everything you do on your car is a "learning lesson". Once you have done a task, the next 'similar' task is just that much easier. 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 1
I think the biggest lesson learned is take my time and never rush..... sometimes easier said than done
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
I have the same issue with my 77. They go up and down much better when I give it a little gas. They don't go up at all if the car isn't running. I have a big cam and the GEN light is usually on at idle. Either way, they move slow den when revving the engine. Do you think this is also switch related? I can try to short the wires at the switch and see.
This seems counter intuitive. Big cam implies higher idle rpm to keep the engine running, which spins the alt faster than stock. Windows should work a little better.
If your gen light is on at idle, you have an electrical problem, either in the alt, or in the wiring associated with it. If you can track it down you should be able to idle with the gen light off. That might even help your windows.