rear suspension
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Here's mine, doesn't look that bad to me. I doubt this is causing the noise or needs replacement.
Here's the state of my trailing arm bushings. They don't look that bad to me, either. I'd like to think I can wait on a rebuild.
drivers side outside
drivers side inside
passenger side inside
passenger side outside
Here's the state of my trailing arm bushings. They don't look that bad to me, either. I'd like to think I can wait on a rebuild.
drivers side outside
drivers side inside
passenger side inside
passenger side outside
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
Is this the bushing you were referring to? This isn't mine, just an image I found in another thread
Also, from what I've been reading here replacing the trailing arm bushings properly (rubber) requires a hydraulic press and either buying or fabricating a custom tool. Is this correct? If so I guess I'll have to send them out if they're shot.
I'll look at them out with a flashlight tomorrow and check for play when I do the other work.
Also, from what I've been reading here replacing the trailing arm bushings properly (rubber) requires a hydraulic press and either buying or fabricating a custom tool. Is this correct? If so I guess I'll have to send them out if they're shot.
I'll look at them out with a flashlight tomorrow and check for play when I do the other work.
As for the T/A bushings, they can be pressed in, but it's not expensive. You're going to need to take the T/As off anyway, in order to address all the possible issues with them, so just take them in to a machine shop, and have them press them in for you. Not sure about the custom tool...I used no such thing. Could be why it was such a pain in the but for me...
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
Here's mine, doesn't look that bad to me. I doubt this is causing the noise or needs replacement.
Here's the state of my trailing arm bushings. They don't look that bad to me, either. I'd like to think I can wait on a rebuild.
drivers side outside
drivers side inside
passenger side inside
passenger side outside
Here's the state of my trailing arm bushings. They don't look that bad to me, either. I'd like to think I can wait on a rebuild.
drivers side outside
drivers side inside
passenger side inside
passenger side outside
Simply put, you don't want to take all the time and effort required to dig into the rear suspension, fix 90% of the stuff, and then leave some old stuff in. You WILL likely regret that later, though it'll sound like a good idea at the time. That's my opinion, though. All that stuff is likely going to be included in any full rear end kit...and if you're paying for it, better use it, you know? If you can find one that doesn't include that stuff, then, I guess it's up to you. Honestly, those bushing are not the worst I have seen, not THAT bad at all. You'd probably be fine driving around with them, never really even notice. PROBABLY.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
How'd you do your bushings? Were they poly or rubber? Everything I read on these forums says rubber is the way to go, but installing it requires flaring the metal parts of the bushing while it is inside a press.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Ah, apparantly rubber requires more work. I'm going with a pretty mild setup: all rubber, low spring weight.
I'm still waiting on parts delivery. In the mean time I've noticed a squeak that matches wheel speed. If it turns out to be the rear wheels I may need to have the trailing arms rebuilt anyway. I haven't really investigated it yet so it could be something else.
I'm still waiting on parts delivery. In the mean time I've noticed a squeak that matches wheel speed. If it turns out to be the rear wheels I may need to have the trailing arms rebuilt anyway. I haven't really investigated it yet so it could be something else.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 23
From: Kansas
Yes Sir; Didn't Mr. E. Willcox of Willcox Corvette have a thread up on checking the trailing arm for replacement ware. or was that another Vendor?? Put Mr. Willcox on the carpet, ask him, He's a nice guy. Have a great day. Gene
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
what do you mean by "replacement ware"? Inspecting wear level to determine if it needs rebuild/replace? Or replacement wares (parts).
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I spent less money choosing Vette Brakes and Parts over Vansteel. Vansteel is just reselling some of VBP's stuff at mark-up.
Also, don't buy your Blistien's from Zip, or any of the other Corvette places, they're also selling them over priced. I matched the same ones for 20$ less with Amazon Prime free shipping.
VBP is also running a sale right now on spring kits and the strut bars. The rear spring if you go composite is usually $360, right now they're $314.
My rear-end looked just like your's the shocks where actually easy with a rubber mallet to remove. The hard part was getting the stupid struts off my car.
Once I got the major crap off it looked like this:
The one part I didn't need to service where the trailing arms on my car. They looked as though they'd been done in the past as the bushings where all very new in appearance and in god condition.
Everything goes back together easily enough. Good luck!
Also, don't buy your Blistien's from Zip, or any of the other Corvette places, they're also selling them over priced. I matched the same ones for 20$ less with Amazon Prime free shipping.
VBP is also running a sale right now on spring kits and the strut bars. The rear spring if you go composite is usually $360, right now they're $314.
My rear-end looked just like your's the shocks where actually easy with a rubber mallet to remove. The hard part was getting the stupid struts off my car.
Once I got the major crap off it looked like this:
The one part I didn't need to service where the trailing arms on my car. They looked as though they'd been done in the past as the bushings where all very new in appearance and in god condition.
Everything goes back together easily enough. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
So my shocks never arrived. When I called to ask about it they said they weren't actually in stock so I cancelled.
Any recommendations on a rear shock that pairs well with a 300# composite monoleaf? Is Bilstein Sport too stiff for a street ride? I was specifically looking for the HDs (supposedly a little softer) but they seem to be hard to find. Vansteel lists a generic Bilstein shock (BSF-14) but I can't tell what type it is (http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1882)
VBP only has Bilstein Sport and some Xtreme shock. They also have KYB shocks which I heard are fine but that the Bilsteins last longer.
I'm running stock size tires on stock wheels, if it matters.
Any recommendations on a rear shock that pairs well with a 300# composite monoleaf? Is Bilstein Sport too stiff for a street ride? I was specifically looking for the HDs (supposedly a little softer) but they seem to be hard to find. Vansteel lists a generic Bilstein shock (BSF-14) but I can't tell what type it is (http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1882)
VBP only has Bilstein Sport and some Xtreme shock. They also have KYB shocks which I heard are fine but that the Bilsteins last longer.
I'm running stock size tires on stock wheels, if it matters.
Last edited by brianPA; Jul 10, 2012 at 12:35 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 9
So my shocks never arrived. When I called to ask about it they said they weren't actually in stock so I cancelled.
Any recommendations on a rear shock that pairs well with a 300# composite monoleaf? Is Bilstein Sport too stiff for a street ride? I was specifically looking for the HDs (supposedly a little softer) but they seem to be hard to find. Vansteel lists a generic Bilstein shock (BSF-14) but I can't tell what type it is (http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1882)
VBP only has Bilstein Sport and some Xtreme shock. They also have KYB shocks which I heard are fine but that the Bilsteins last longer.
I'm running stock size tires on stock wheels, if it matters.
Any recommendations on a rear shock that pairs well with a 300# composite monoleaf? Is Bilstein Sport too stiff for a street ride? I was specifically looking for the HDs (supposedly a little softer) but they seem to be hard to find. Vansteel lists a generic Bilstein shock (BSF-14) but I can't tell what type it is (http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1882)
VBP only has Bilstein Sport and some Xtreme shock. They also have KYB shocks which I heard are fine but that the Bilsteins last longer.
I'm running stock size tires on stock wheels, if it matters.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
The fiberglass springs (300 lbs/inch) are much stiffer than stock (about 200 lbs), so the rate at which they cycle is also much higher. You need a stiff shock to match the higher rate of the FG spring. A shock which is designed to control a stock rate spring will act too slowly to control a high rate spring. It's designed to work as a system.
The shocks I took off were very old Monroe "monro-matic" type.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
And I'm done! That was a long and unpleasant experience but I learned a ton and I'm glad to be back on the road. I still need to install heat shields for the spring and get an alignment (I eyeballed it) before I drive it more than around the block.
Clunk is gone, suspension rides very smooth even on my pothole covered street. I won't know if it is too soft until I am ready to drive it harder. I know most of you guys went with firmer shocks and springs.
I had a million pictures of the entire process but once it started getting ugly I quit taking pictures and just worked at it. Everything was a pain in the ***.
Things look crooked in this picture but I swear they aren't, bad angle I guess.
Some of the old parts, including bent strut & shot bushings all over.
Clunk is gone, suspension rides very smooth even on my pothole covered street. I won't know if it is too soft until I am ready to drive it harder. I know most of you guys went with firmer shocks and springs.
I had a million pictures of the entire process but once it started getting ugly I quit taking pictures and just worked at it. Everything was a pain in the ***.
- bilstein HD shocks
- 300# monoleaf spring
- heavy duty adj struts (non-"smart")
- new halfshafts w/spicer ujoints
- new rubber brake hoses
- rebuilt trailing arms from vansteel
- new brake line (one leaked after re-install)
- new shock mounts & various other hardware that was too rusty to reuse
Things look crooked in this picture but I swear they aren't, bad angle I guess.
Some of the old parts, including bent strut & shot bushings all over.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater FL
Don't want to hi-jack the thread but there seems to be some knowledgable people following the topic and hoping to get some advice. Just picked up my new rear 360 spring from VBP today. They were out of the standard size 360 for the next few weeks (a supply issue with the materials) but they had a shorter spring that was available. It is 1 inch shorter on each end than the standard 360 spring. The VBP tech (by the way nice people over there) said the shorter spring wouldn't make any difference in performance or the way it rides vs. the standard length spring. He said if I wasn't happy they'd exchange it no problem. Well I don't have experience with this spring so I wouldn't know the difference one way or another if the shorter was not performing like a regular length. Not my favorite past time swapping springs, so I rather not do it more than once. So, is there a draw back to the shorter spring even if it rates out at 360?