How do I support the engine during plug wire change?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
How do I support the engine during plug wire change?
Hi All,
I have read many threads. I know many reroute their wires and I may do the same. I bought AC Delco, and I know they are long so to reroute may look bad because I still have stock manifolds so to go up is not easy as with headers.
I may just reroute thru the wire protectors on the block. I cut and pulled hard to get the old out.
I need to remove the 2 motor mount bolts on either side to get the wires between the mounts/block (I dont want to remove boots). I suppose I need to support the engine somehow? I cant just jack it on the oil pan. I didnt see a nice option to support engine. Any thoughts?
Thanks
I have read many threads. I know many reroute their wires and I may do the same. I bought AC Delco, and I know they are long so to reroute may look bad because I still have stock manifolds so to go up is not easy as with headers.
I may just reroute thru the wire protectors on the block. I cut and pulled hard to get the old out.
I need to remove the 2 motor mount bolts on either side to get the wires between the mounts/block (I dont want to remove boots). I suppose I need to support the engine somehow? I cant just jack it on the oil pan. I didnt see a nice option to support engine. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
A jack beneath the engine (carefully) will support it.
Why not cheat? Remove a boot from one end of the plug wire and snake it through the engine mount. Slip the boot back on once you get it routed.
Why not cheat? Remove a boot from one end of the plug wire and snake it through the engine mount. Slip the boot back on once you get it routed.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
On the oil pan? Thats not risky? I dont know! I could try it on a curved portion but it scares me.....lol
Well my old wires were very hard to pull thru, even when cut in half, so I assumed they fit was too tight to remove boot and snake thru??
Well my old wires were very hard to pull thru, even when cut in half, so I assumed they fit was too tight to remove boot and snake thru??
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,364
Likes: 221
From: Beecher Illinois
When I was detailing my motors, one of them I left the oil pan on because it had been redone a few years before.
For that one I made a cradle out of 3/4" plywood and 2X3s.
Fit right behind the power steering cylinder and supported the motor on the oil pan flanges/bolts.
But I was jacking the motor as high as I could.
For your needs, tho, I too think you could jack up against the pan sump. Use a piece of wood to jack against. And don't put a lot of force against it. Make sure you're actually raising the motor off the mounts.
For that one I made a cradle out of 3/4" plywood and 2X3s.
Fit right behind the power steering cylinder and supported the motor on the oil pan flanges/bolts.
But I was jacking the motor as high as I could.
For your needs, tho, I too think you could jack up against the pan sump. Use a piece of wood to jack against. And don't put a lot of force against it. Make sure you're actually raising the motor off the mounts.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,200
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi jw,
Have you tried putting the distributor end of the wire through the mount and then leading it to the distributor??
The distributor boot is smaller and squishier than the sparkplug end boot.
Regards,
Alan
Have you tried putting the distributor end of the wire through the mount and then leading it to the distributor??
The distributor boot is smaller and squishier than the sparkplug end boot.
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
And, unless the distributor end caps are molded-in [usually they are not], you can remove them easily, put a wrap of blue painter's tape on the end, feed it through the mount and shielding, remove the tape, re-install the cap, and plug it on the dizzy cap.
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Drifting
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
Spark Plug Wire Replace Tip
FWIW, when I did this job, I did not jack the engine. Instead, I removed the boot from the distributor end, tied some small but sturdy nylon string to the brass connector, then pulled the wire out from the bottom. This does take some patience as the wire sometimes needs to be "coaxed" through the lower shield. Once removed, I had the string in place to pull the new wire back thru in the opposite direction from when I pulled the old one out. I did each wire this way, one at a time. I might have removed the upper shields - just can't quite remember any more.
Not an easy job, and one that works MUCH better if you have one person working from above and another working from beneath, each helping to jockey/slide the wires out/in. In my case, I had the car on the lift, raised approx 3 1/2 feet - just enough for the "beneath" man to sit on a creeper and work, while the "above" man stands on a step ladder to work. This way, a "push/pull" method can be used. Some WD-40 was used to lubricate the boot for removal/replacement.
A couple/few hour job, but much satisfaction when complete!
Hope this helps. Good luck on your project...
Not an easy job, and one that works MUCH better if you have one person working from above and another working from beneath, each helping to jockey/slide the wires out/in. In my case, I had the car on the lift, raised approx 3 1/2 feet - just enough for the "beneath" man to sit on a creeper and work, while the "above" man stands on a step ladder to work. This way, a "push/pull" method can be used. Some WD-40 was used to lubricate the boot for removal/replacement.
A couple/few hour job, but much satisfaction when complete!
Hope this helps. Good luck on your project...
Last edited by redrdstr72; Jul 13, 2012 at 10:27 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 945
Likes: 10
From: Winston Salem NC
You can safely jack up the engine using the oil pan. I used a 4x4 a jack and placed it against the lowest part of the pan. I did this to work on the tranny and clutch. You can then put jack stands on the 4x4 for long term holding.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Tampa, Florida
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 952
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown,WV USA
How do I support the engine during plug wire change? Reply to Thread
FWIW, when I did this job, I did not jack the engine. Instead, I removed the boot from the distributor end, tied some small but sturdy nylon string to the brass connector, then pulled the wire out from the bottom. This does take some patience as the wire sometimes needs to be "coaxed" through the lower shield. Once removed, I had the string in place to pull the new wire back thru in the opposite direction from when I pulled the old one out. I did each wire this way, one at a time. I might have removed the upper shields - just can't quite remember any more.
Not an easy job, and one that works MUCH better if you have one person working from above and another working from beneath, each helping to jockey/slide the wires out/in. In my case, I had the car on the lift, raised approx 3 1/2 feet - just enough for the "beneath" man to sit on a creeper and work, while the "above" man stands on a step ladder to work. This way, a "push/pull" method can be used. Some WD-40 was used to lubricate the boot for removal/replacement.
A couple/few hour job, but much satisfaction when complete!
Hope this helps. Good luck on your project...
Not an easy job, and one that works MUCH better if you have one person working from above and another working from beneath, each helping to jockey/slide the wires out/in. In my case, I had the car on the lift, raised approx 3 1/2 feet - just enough for the "beneath" man to sit on a creeper and work, while the "above" man stands on a step ladder to work. This way, a "push/pull" method can be used. Some WD-40 was used to lubricate the boot for removal/replacement.
A couple/few hour job, but much satisfaction when complete!
Hope this helps. Good luck on your project...
Dan
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Hi all! Thanks for all the tips! I know this has been covered before. I appreciate all the info! Im new to the vette scene and impressed by the help offered on this site!
Im going to get these wires installed this weekend using all the tips above -I will post progress soon! Kinda looking forward to this job being finished....lol.
Thanks again - will post progress in a day or two!
Im going to get these wires installed this weekend using all the tips above -I will post progress soon! Kinda looking forward to this job being finished....lol.
Thanks again - will post progress in a day or two!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 28
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Another job done and close to driving my new 81 !!!
First, THANKS for the removing the boot trick. I removed the boot from the plug wires and yes, I was able to snake them thru the mounts!! I will say I worked and worked but couldnt get the wires thru the passenger side protector tray on the block. I had to remove the starter bolts and tilt the starter to the side, then route the wires, then tighten starter back up. Not too bad of a job tho. Time consuming but its done!!! And correctly!! Thanks again all!
First, THANKS for the removing the boot trick. I removed the boot from the plug wires and yes, I was able to snake them thru the mounts!! I will say I worked and worked but couldnt get the wires thru the passenger side protector tray on the block. I had to remove the starter bolts and tilt the starter to the side, then route the wires, then tighten starter back up. Not too bad of a job tho. Time consuming but its done!!! And correctly!! Thanks again all!