Much thanks.
Adjustable strut rods
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 67
From: Midland Ontario
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Middleburg Florida
So...back to the adjustable strut rods...
Some guys have had problems with these coming loose. They've added jamb nuts, heim ends, used locktite and all kinds of things to keep that from happening. What I found was that as the suspension travels up and down, it doesn't do that in a straight line, it's a bit of an arc. As such, this causes the strut rods to twist as the suspension travels. That's what loosens the jamb nuts. To prevent this, don't over tighten the through bolts that go through the bushings. Those are self locking nuts and only need to be tight enough to eliminate any back and forth slop between the bushing and the mounts. The strut should be able to move up and down with the suspension. After talking with the guys at Van Steel, this is how I installed mine and they haven't loosened themselves once in years.
Some guys have had problems with these coming loose. They've added jamb nuts, heim ends, used locktite and all kinds of things to keep that from happening. What I found was that as the suspension travels up and down, it doesn't do that in a straight line, it's a bit of an arc. As such, this causes the strut rods to twist as the suspension travels. That's what loosens the jamb nuts. To prevent this, don't over tighten the through bolts that go through the bushings. Those are self locking nuts and only need to be tight enough to eliminate any back and forth slop between the bushing and the mounts. The strut should be able to move up and down with the suspension. After talking with the guys at Van Steel, this is how I installed mine and they haven't loosened themselves once in years.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
So...back to the adjustable strut rods...
Some guys have had problems with these coming loose. They've added jamb nuts, heim ends, used locktite and all kinds of things to keep that from happening. What I found was that as the suspension travels up and down, it doesn't do that in a straight line, it's a bit of an arc. As such, this causes the strut rods to twist as the suspension travels. That's what loosens the jamb nuts. To prevent this, don't over tighten the through bolts that go through the bushings. Those are self locking nuts and only need to be tight enough to eliminate any back and forth slop between the bushing and the mounts. The strut should be able to move up and down with the suspension. After talking with the guys at Van Steel, this is how I installed mine and they haven't loosened themselves once in years.
Some guys have had problems with these coming loose. They've added jamb nuts, heim ends, used locktite and all kinds of things to keep that from happening. What I found was that as the suspension travels up and down, it doesn't do that in a straight line, it's a bit of an arc. As such, this causes the strut rods to twist as the suspension travels. That's what loosens the jamb nuts. To prevent this, don't over tighten the through bolts that go through the bushings. Those are self locking nuts and only need to be tight enough to eliminate any back and forth slop between the bushing and the mounts. The strut should be able to move up and down with the suspension. After talking with the guys at Van Steel, this is how I installed mine and they haven't loosened themselves once in years.
Back to my coffee.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Middleburg Florida
Mike, loose isn't really accurate I guess. Just not so tight that they bind, so the struts can move up and down is all, but tight enough so there's no slop in them. The poly bushings should reduce any deflection you'd get from rubber bushings (honestly, if that's the only change you made in the suspension, I can't believe you'd notice any difference at all). If you can't get that movement (and I suppose rubber bushings allow enough movement because the rubber gives compared to the poly), the rods will twist. Not much at all, but enough for the adjustment nuts to come loose.
My turn for more coffee now...
My turn for more coffee now...
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
There's several suspension points on C2/C3s where 3D movement is designed into the joint and all effort must be made to not restrict this. The strut rods and trailing arm bushings are perhaps the most important. The basic flaw in using poly in these joints is that it allows movement in only one plane and by design is rigid in all others . You've gotten around the second plane of movement (torsion) by loosening the through bolts, but this does not address the need to also allow the strut rods to move fore/aft as the suspension moves away from the static neutral position. The strut rod does NOT remain perpendicular to the through bolt as the suspension moves.
The best solution is to use a Heim joint, but the OEM rubber bushing is more than adequate in controlling movement for anything other than full race situations.
Had enough coffee today, moved onto beer.
The best solution is to use a Heim joint, but the OEM rubber bushing is more than adequate in controlling movement for anything other than full race situations.
Had enough coffee today, moved onto beer.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: New South Wales
Mike, loose isn't really accurate I guess. Just not so tight that they bind, so the struts can move up and down is all, but tight enough so there's no slop in them. The poly bushings should reduce any deflection you'd get from rubber bushings (honestly, if that's the only change you made in the suspension, I can't believe you'd notice any difference at all). If you can't get that movement (and I suppose rubber bushings allow enough movement because the rubber gives compared to the poly), the rods will twist. Not much at all, but enough for the adjustment nuts to come loose.
My turn for more coffee now...
My turn for more coffee now...
What I said above, I've said a dozen times before. Nothing new.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,410
Likes: 949
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
I used poly bushings in the OEM strut rods for years and they never loosened but squeaked too much for my liking. Changed to competition adjustable with heim joint struts a few years ago and they have been great for ride, handling, and no noise. The rods don't flex under load, they keep the camber perfect, they eliminate unwanted camber change under load, and have made the rear end feel attached to the rest of the car! I would never go back to a strut with rubber or poly bushings.They are a great investment at about $200 for the pair-money well spent.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
For BrianPA- you went to extra work for nothing by swapping the hardware, but it did no harm. The adjustable strut rods are similar to a turnbuckle. The ends must stay still while the centre section is rotated to lengthen or shorten the total length. That's why there's a left and right thread on each unit.
Glad to know that C3 struts should the same size on each end. I really didn't want to have to do that again.