Thanks for info and if I can hijack my own thread, how did the RS500 fit in your 1980? Why the RS as opposed to the TKO?

 

It's your thread, so it's not really hijacking. You are just changing topics.

I chose the RS500 over the TKO because it cost less (at least it did at the time) and it supposedly shifts easier than the TKO. One of the reasons I changed to a 5-speed was so my wife could drive it easier. I haven't driven a TKO for comparison, but I know I can shift the RS500with my thumb and a finger or two. I put in a hydraulic clutch at the same time.

As for fit, the only issue I had was that the shift lever didn't fit on the side of the linkage it was supposed to be mounted on according to the instructions. Otherwise it fits great.

I also had difficulty putting the last horizontal bolt through the cross member and frame, but that was most likely due to installer error. The guys in our car club helped me install it (installation by committee). I realized at the end of the project that one of the jack stands was 2 notches lower than the other 3, so the frame was being twisted just enough so the bolt holes didn't line up.

 

I have read several posts regarding the shifting difficulties with the TKO, I am glad to hear it was resolved with the RS.
How did you resolve the problem with the shift lever not fitting on the side of the linkage that it was suppose to be mounted?
Last, the hydraulic clutch conversion sounds great! Can you fill in some more details on that install?

 

I just mounted the shift lever on the right side of the linkage instead of the left. The lever hit the left edge of the console cover when I mounted it on the left.

The hydraulic clutch install had its catches too. The first was finding where to drill holes in the firewall and mounting it so the clutch rod angle is right. The instructions were not specifically for C3 Corvettes, so they weren't very useful.

My biggest beef with the hydraulic clutch kit is the clutch rod itself. First, it was too short. I couldn't get enough travel to move the clutch all the way. I cut the head off of a 1 1/2" x 5/16" fine thread bolt and laid it and the threaded end in a piece of angle iron to hold the two parts straight while I welded the bolt to the end of if the clutch rod.

My second complaint about the clutch rod was the "turnbuckle" between the threaded ends. You'd think a turnbuckle with jam nuts was a good idea so you can adjust the length of the rod to get the right travel once attached to your clutch pedal.

HOWEVER, it doesn't work that way because both ends are right threaded. Turning the body of the "turnbuckle" moves the body on the ends without changing the length of the rod. In order to adjust the length of the rod (as instructed), you need to disconnect the clutch rod from the clutch pedal, loosen the jam nuts, turn the body and end one way or the other, tighten the jam nuts, and reattach the clutch rod to the pedal. Anyone who has had to work up there under the dash knows that is NOT an easy task.

IMO, that is a really poor design for the clutch rod. Human factors were obviously not important when they designed it. If the company I work at ever gets a complaint about human factors that affects the function of a product, we'd change the design and give the customer a new one. I called Keisler Tech Support to give them my feedback on the design (with all the details and suggestions), but they didn't seem to think there was anything wrong with the design.

The hydraulic clutch works GREAT once it's installed. What I thought would be a straight forward install was not.

 

MN80Vette,

Thanks for the detailed information and I think what you were referring to in your post is called attention to detail. That requires motivation, which appears that they don't have any of. At least I know what I am in for if I go with that product.

 

If I knew then what I know now, I would just make my own turnbuckle that adjusts the length of the rod by turning the body.

I liked working with the guys at Keisler in general, but I don't think they have any personal experience with their clutch kit in a C3 Corvette. What I was telling them seemed foreign to him. They should really take the time to install a few in C3 Corvettes themselves.

 

We rarely get feedback on these installs that help us highlight design issues, so I do appreciate the feedback. When you spoke with our tech services department, did they ask for any photos that would highlight your specific issues? We design each portion of a kit around a car that we bring in for R&D, so there may be something that we just aren't aware of from an install standpoint.

The RS series shifts differently from the TKO because the RS utilizes a single shift rail, whereas the TKO has a single rail that feeds into one of 3 different rails. This interchange can make for a very notchy shift feel. The attached photo illustrates that interchange inside the TKO.

 

Pictures were not requested, but I don't think pictures would add much more information anyway. I think my description was very detailed and the problems are pretty straight forward:
The rod was too short and the rod should be adjustable by simply loosening the jam nuts and rotating the turnbuckle without disconnecting it from the clutch pedal (IMO).

 

I agree, as it would obviously make sense for it to work that way. We usually ask for pictures whenever there is an install issue just to see if there is something out of the ordinary, and especially since verbal communication is not always adequate. I'm sorry that our kit did not meet your expectations for install, but hopefully it works well now and in the future for you.

 

I am considering the RS500 also, so do you mind if i ask a few questions since it was already brought up? To MN80vette, what rear gear do you have and does the 3.27 1st gear seem too low? Also, did you have issues getting the RS500 in or did you have the engine out already? Do you have a removable crossmember or welded? Thanks and sorry if I semi-hijacked this thread but the RS500 was brought up by the original poster.

 

I believe MN80vette already listed his vette as an 80 coupe. My 80 is an original 4 speed car and has the removable tranny cross member. It also came with the 3.08 rear, I am not sure what MN80vette is running.

 

Yes, I am running a Keisler RS500 with the stock 3.08. IMO, 3.08 is perfect. Any lower and 1st gear wouldn't be very useful for my driving needs. According to the calculator at the Keisler site, the RS500 with stock 3.08 is like having a 4.11 ratio with the stock transmission. It really launches well.

I routinely cruise along local roads at 55 mph in 5th gear with no problem. If I need to accelerate from there, I just downshift. My GMP 350 HO doesn't feel like it lugs either. I've never driven an '80 with a stock L48, so I don't know if that would lug or not.

I installed the RS500 with the engine in. I had the help of a transmission hoist under a 4-post lift and a few guys from our car club. As with any manual transmission install, the most difficult part is getting the transmission straight and lining up the shaft splines with the clutch. The rest of the install is straight forward. Just don't have twisting force on you frame like I had when you try to mount the new cross member that comes with the RS500.

 

I need to replace the clutch pedal soon because the rod pin broke off. I wasn't planning to take the clutch rod all the way out, but I will see if I can get a picture of the 1 1/2" extension I added to the rod end.

Has the clutch designed changed since I got my kit? If not, do you think this design will be changed in the future?

 

 

Thanks for all the info and for allowing me to ask without starting a new thread, greatly appreciated.

 

Sorry, I've been swamped and don't get on here as often. The design hasn't changed at all to my knowledge.