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I'm trying to re-install the idler arm to the frame after having dropped the steering linkage and oil pan. I'll be darned if I can get the flat part of the idler arm flat against the frame holes. I'm sure that I don't have it backwards. It seems that it takes some contortion of the steering linkage to get it line up but I can't figure it out. ( Idler arm is connected to steering linkage)
I started to just remove the idler arm but I can't get it off either.
any ideas?
I'm guessing that you ARE trying to install it backwards, if you are having any problem with reinstallation. Remove the bolts completely. Then, place the idler arm in position and install the bolts.
Its physically impossible to install it backwards if you have never taken it off of the steering linkage - which I have not.
Since the idler arm is still connected it is not as simple as raising it and aligning the holes. The idler arm has a mind of its own when you get near the holes - such that I cannot place it flat against frame and matching holes.
I have tried moving the front wheels side to side and contorting the steering linkage in all possible ways to get the idler arm to line up - no go. The best I can get the idler arm is at a 45 degree angle to the holes. Kinda hard to explain.
I'm surprised no one else has had this problem. I'm trying to avoid removing the idler arm to accomplish this. I'm afraid the alignment and/or steering wheel will be off as a result.
Most likely going to have to disconnect idler arm from linkage. Bolt on arm then reinstall linkage. When I rebuilt my front end (yrs ago) Idler arm went on first then I connected the linkage. I don"t remember having any problems.
Uh....did you think to raise the wheels off the ground (at least one, anyway) so that wheel position wouldn't hamper your reassembly attempts? If you changed the position of the wheels during your work, that could present a problem for you.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 10, 2012 at 12:37 AM.
This is not rocket science. While the linkage does move in several planes, when the wheels are off the ground, you should be able to move the relay rod (central link) left or right to get the flat of the idler arm aligned or parallel to the frame. Then move it up/down, forward/backward to line one hole up with the frame hole and slide the bolt in. With one bolt home, the second bolt should be easy.
There is no need to disconnect anything to do this. I'm a really OLD guy and I did it recently on my car that has Hooker headers, which limits room compared to stock manifolds and down-pipe.
Pete
I'm afraid the alignment and/or steering wheel will be off as a result.
I'd plan to realign it anyway.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Uh....did you think to raise the wheels off the ground (at least one, anyway) so that wheel position wouldn't hamper your reassembly attempts? If you changed the position of the wheels during your work, that could present a problem for you.