Need some oil advice
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Need some oil advice
Bought an 81 a few months ago. I absolutely love the car. I've wanted one since I was 8 yrs old... I am starting to replace some cosmetic parts in the interior, but have also decided that I need to change the oil. I have used Mobil 1 synthetic in my Mercedes, in the past. I have always heard that it was the best. My c3 has 128k miles however and I am not sure what is in it now. Has a few oil leaks, which I have read is normal. Would you guys put in the synthetic? Something else? Thanks!! J
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Mobil 1 is a great oil for your mercedes. It is good for your C3 if your flat tappet cam has been replaced with a roller cam. If not use High ZDDP oil listed in the first post here. I use the Amsoil AMO 10W-40.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ppet-oils.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ppet-oils.html
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 280
From: New York
63Mako: Quick question. Why Amsoil AMO 10W-40? Why not Amsoil Z-Rod or the Amsoil Dominator racing oils? Is it that you wanted the 10W-40 weight?
For most Corvette owners that might not use their car as a daily driver, I thought the rust and corrosion inhibitors in the Z-Rod oil might be a good idea.
For most Corvette owners that might not use their car as a daily driver, I thought the rust and corrosion inhibitors in the Z-Rod oil might be a good idea.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 5
From: N.Richland Hills Texas
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
63Mako: Quick question. Why Amsoil AMO 10W-40? Why not Amsoil Z-Rod or the Amsoil Dominator racing oils? Is it that you wanted the 10W-40 weight?
For most Corvette owners that might not use their car as a daily driver, I thought the rust and corrosion inhibitors in the Z-Rod oil might be a good idea.
For most Corvette owners that might not use their car as a daily driver, I thought the rust and corrosion inhibitors in the Z-Rod oil might be a good idea.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 142
Likes: 6
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Brad Penn oil is a very good choice for old flat tappet engines.
I was running Mobil 1 in my Chevelle and had a rear main leak, not real bad but annoying. Switched to Brad Penn at the direction of Richard Iskenderian (Isky really likes this oil) with use of their EZX roller lifters. Oil leak stopped. Not even a drop.
http://www.penngrade1.com/
http://theoilwarehouse.com/page/1hu7y/Home.html
I was running Mobil 1 in my Chevelle and had a rear main leak, not real bad but annoying. Switched to Brad Penn at the direction of Richard Iskenderian (Isky really likes this oil) with use of their EZX roller lifters. Oil leak stopped. Not even a drop.
http://www.penngrade1.com/
http://theoilwarehouse.com/page/1hu7y/Home.html
Last edited by 71454Chevelle; Sep 3, 2012 at 10:31 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
If you have oil leakages now, they will only get worse with full synthetic oil. That is NOT because synthetic oil causes worse leaks; it is because the molecular size of full synthetic oil is much smaller than organic (dino) oil. So, if there is already a "hole" for engine oil to leak from, more synthetic oil will leak out of that same "hole".
I do believe that synthetic oil is a better lubricant for use in an automotive engine (or, about any other mechanical device). But, you have to weigh those reliability/durability/life benefits with the cost of the oils you purchase for your car and the amount of time that oil will remain in the engine.
It is also important, if you choose to go with synthetic oil, to select a filter that is more compatible with that type of oil.
I think you should first fix the leaks on your engine. Until then, just put a decent grade of dino oil in it, and change oil/filter at a reasonable frequency (3000-5000 miles; or if you don't drive the car much, once per year). Once leaks are fixed, then decide if you want to go with synthetic.
I do believe that synthetic oil is a better lubricant for use in an automotive engine (or, about any other mechanical device). But, you have to weigh those reliability/durability/life benefits with the cost of the oils you purchase for your car and the amount of time that oil will remain in the engine.
It is also important, if you choose to go with synthetic oil, to select a filter that is more compatible with that type of oil.
I think you should first fix the leaks on your engine. Until then, just put a decent grade of dino oil in it, and change oil/filter at a reasonable frequency (3000-5000 miles; or if you don't drive the car much, once per year). Once leaks are fixed, then decide if you want to go with synthetic.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Regarding switching from mineral to synthetic
There's a lot of feedback that making this switch causes engines to develop leaks. This can be the case, but it's important to understand why. Synthetic oil is more solvent than mineral oil, meaning that it can clean and remove deposits left by mineral oils - and expose worn or damaged oil seals. If your engine currently uses more than about 1 quart every 1,000 miles or is already "leaky", you may experience leaks (or worse leaks) by switching. Note that this solvency is a good thing; this is exactly what keeps an engine far cleaner when running synthetic.
There's a lot of feedback that making this switch causes engines to develop leaks. This can be the case, but it's important to understand why. Synthetic oil is more solvent than mineral oil, meaning that it can clean and remove deposits left by mineral oils - and expose worn or damaged oil seals. If your engine currently uses more than about 1 quart every 1,000 miles or is already "leaky", you may experience leaks (or worse leaks) by switching. Note that this solvency is a good thing; this is exactly what keeps an engine far cleaner when running synthetic.
At 128K miles on a GEN I, I would be shifting dollars from cosmetic upgrades to engine overhaul regardless...especially if you have a heavy right foot.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
What do you recommend for an engine with 212K miles on it? And it still does just fine when the foot is "applied"...
P.S. It has had 1 major rebuild about 80K miles ago and two minor head jobs: one for seals and one for a blown gasket. Original engine still goin' strong, though!
P.S. It has had 1 major rebuild about 80K miles ago and two minor head jobs: one for seals and one for a blown gasket. Original engine still goin' strong, though!
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Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
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From: King George VA
I agree with 63mako - the racing oils do not have the detergents needed for street use. I change my race oil at about every 500 miles.
For those interested in the Z-ROD 10w30, more than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
For those interested in the Z-ROD 10w30, more than happy to get AMSOIL products for forum members at dealer wholesale pricing, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.
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AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 549
Likes: 5
From: punta gorda florida
oil
I recently had a probelem with cam failure on my 1969 vert and I use amsoil 10w 40 premium.
My point here I called AMS OIL tech support and the told me they wanted me to send samples in the tech sent me a sample kit with all the info needed to send in oil sample which was 2, 4 oz. bottles in about a week the called me and went over results from lab with and mailed me all the paper work end result was I had coolant in oil and thats what caused my cam failure. not only did they pay for all this but he offered to send me a ck. to cover the cost of shipping to the lab.
I I found out that the coolant came from the head to intake manifold water jacket both sdes were seeping a little coolant into lifter valley indicated by staining on aluminum heads near passage
My point here is AMOIL tech support was fantasic anmd helped resolve my problem by finding out about coolant in oil I would have spent all the money to replace cam and had problem again ended up intake had been meesed with at some time I bought it used.
So for me amsoil it is saved me tons of money and time they use an indepent lab
My point here I called AMS OIL tech support and the told me they wanted me to send samples in the tech sent me a sample kit with all the info needed to send in oil sample which was 2, 4 oz. bottles in about a week the called me and went over results from lab with and mailed me all the paper work end result was I had coolant in oil and thats what caused my cam failure. not only did they pay for all this but he offered to send me a ck. to cover the cost of shipping to the lab.
I I found out that the coolant came from the head to intake manifold water jacket both sdes were seeping a little coolant into lifter valley indicated by staining on aluminum heads near passage
My point here is AMOIL tech support was fantasic anmd helped resolve my problem by finding out about coolant in oil I would have spent all the money to replace cam and had problem again ended up intake had been meesed with at some time I bought it used.
So for me amsoil it is saved me tons of money and time they use an indepent lab
Last edited by 69small block; Sep 9, 2012 at 08:13 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
What do you recommend for an engine with 212K miles on it? And it still does just fine when the foot is "applied"...
P.S. It has had 1 major rebuild about 80K miles ago and two minor head jobs: one for seals and one for a blown gasket. Original engine still goin' strong, though!
P.S. It has had 1 major rebuild about 80K miles ago and two minor head jobs: one for seals and one for a blown gasket. Original engine still goin' strong, though!
