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On a 1975 Corvette, can you unbolt the oil pan and remove from the car without removing any other items? Is there enough room? Installing timing chain cover and can't complete the install without lowering the oil pan. Also is it possible to loosen the front oil pan bolts to lower the front of the oil pan enough to install the timing chain cover?
On a 1975 Corvette, can you unbolt the oil pan and remove from the car without removing any other items? Is there enough room? Installing timing chain cover and can't complete the install without lowering the oil pan. Also is it possible to loosen the front oil pan bolts to lower the front of the oil pan enough to install the timing chain cover?
Thanks.
Not sure about a big block, but I'm pretty sure that on most any '63-'82 'vette with a small block, you can break the steering linkage and remove the oil pan. If you are going to remove the oil pan, think about doing the rear main seal and oil pump while you're at it. Also, check out this oil pan gasket:
Don't "break" any steering joints. Just take the two bolts out of the idler arm (to frame) mounting. Once you drop that, the pan is easy to remove.
This, plus I raised the front wheels off the ground so I could turn both wheels out, further lowering the steering linkage. Mine is a BB so that may not be necessary on yours.
I believe if all he wants to do is gain clearance to slide the timing chain cover on, he could take the oil pan bolts loose and just let it hang and that will give enough room to maneuver the cover in, should only need bout 1/2 inch. its a pita to do it that way but its doable. The suggestions from prev. posters to take some other parts off and then do more maint. is excellent. That much b.s , you may as well do it right.
I've dropped down the oil pan front on other cars for timing set changes, but can't say I've ever done it on a Vette. Honestly, have an engine picker and stand now, and really find pulling the engine is the best way. May seem like a big deal at first, but really not. Good opportunity for clean up/painting, and you're surely needing to replace other things, as well. Sure beats working from underneath, and messing up body paint work.
Well, when you've done it enough to have NO rusted bolts and NO piles of greasy gunk at the rear of the engine and tranny....then, yes, pulling the engine is not a bad deal.
But, for those that have never done it, it IS a big deal!
So, if you don't NEED to pull the engine, and it's not going to be a "piece of cake"...don't.
I used to these all the time without dropping the pan,been awhile but there was an old trick where you cut a little angle on the inside top where the seal goes.Also dropping the pan is pretty easy just disconnect the idler arm and definetly use the one piece gasket Scottyp99 mentioned.
Remove the idler arm and lower the linkage. It really is best to remove the oil pan to do this.
Just lowering the pan to do this you will still need to loosen all the pan bolts. And chances are pretty good that if the oil pan gasket is old, you will have leaks in other places after you tighten it.
It really stinks doing things twice.
Last edited by scrappy76; Sep 10, 2012 at 10:40 AM.
Reason: spelling
I just did this with my '69 this past week. just loosened the pan bolts to allow pan to drop about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Timing cover can be removed and reinstalled with just a little TLC.
What you do depends on how "sound" the pan gasket will be when you drop it. If it is relatively new...and you didn't put adhesive on it...you may get away with just dropping the pan a bit, then bolting it back up.
But, the probability of that being successful with an "old" gasket is just about "nil".