Rear strut rod problem
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: SoCal California
Rear strut rod problem
I recently pulled the whole rearend setup from my 1969 Corvette so that I could sand/paint the frame, clean/paint the rearend, and install new bushings and such. I also bought a new F-41 rear spring, Bilstein shocks and new adjustable strut rods. (http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...d=strut%20rods)
When trying to install the new strut rods the fore/aft alignment between the differential mount bracket and the trailing arm is off by over an inch when the rear suspension is hanging down. If I lift up (compress) the suspension the alignment improves ... but is still off.
I thought I might have installed the rearend mount bracket backwards, but such is not the case as the slightly staggered mounting holes only work one way.
Is this normal? Is there a trick to installing new strut rods?
When trying to install the new strut rods the fore/aft alignment between the differential mount bracket and the trailing arm is off by over an inch when the rear suspension is hanging down. If I lift up (compress) the suspension the alignment improves ... but is still off.
I thought I might have installed the rearend mount bracket backwards, but such is not the case as the slightly staggered mounting holes only work one way.
Is this normal? Is there a trick to installing new strut rods?
Last edited by Corvette Kiwi; Sep 7, 2012 at 06:39 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi CW,
Yes this is normal.
If you think about the way the trailing arm and it's parts pivot you can see how the connections for the strut rods changes as the trailing arm drops.
As you lift the arm up the strut rod geometry improves and the rod installation is easier.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Yes this is normal.
If you think about the way the trailing arm and it's parts pivot you can see how the connections for the strut rods changes as the trailing arm drops.
As you lift the arm up the strut rod geometry improves and the rod installation is easier.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 78
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From: SoCal California
Alan 71,
Thanks for the info.
However, even after raising up the suspension it is a tight fit as I need to heavily tweak the arm into position. Something doesn't seem entirely correct with the geometry. Maybe when the car is off the jack stands and down on the ground under its own weight the suspension will settle and the geometry will improve?!
Thanks for the info.
However, even after raising up the suspension it is a tight fit as I need to heavily tweak the arm into position. Something doesn't seem entirely correct with the geometry. Maybe when the car is off the jack stands and down on the ground under its own weight the suspension will settle and the geometry will improve?!
Last edited by Corvette Kiwi; Sep 7, 2012 at 06:49 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I did mine last winter
Here's how I installed everything but part way down you'll see how I had to install the strut rods. Yes they are off-set about an inch or so, this worked nicely
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...long-post.html
HIH
Mooser
Here's how I installed everything but part way down you'll see how I had to install the strut rods. Yes they are off-set about an inch or so, this worked nicely
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...long-post.html
HIH
Mooser
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: SoCal California
I found out what the problem was ... you can't install the strut rods when the rear leaf spring is installed. With no spring and/or shocks installed, I used a floor jack to lift up (which fixes the bogus geometry issue) and hold the rear trailing arm. At that point the strut rod slips right into place.
Then, lower the control arm down about half way, jack up the outer edge of the leaf spring, and then install the bushing/washer/bolt combo.
Then, lower the control arm down about half way, jack up the outer edge of the leaf spring, and then install the bushing/washer/bolt combo.
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2015
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I found out what the problem was ... you can't install the strut rods when the rear leaf spring is installed. With no spring and/or shocks installed, I used a floor jack to lift up (which fixes the bogus geometry issue) and hold the rear trailing arm. At that point the strut rod slips right into place.
Then, lower the control arm down about half way, jack up the outer edge of the leaf spring, and then install the bushing/washer/bolt combo.
Then, lower the control arm down about half way, jack up the outer edge of the leaf spring, and then install the bushing/washer/bolt combo.
