overheating problem
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 3
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
UPDATE: I solved my problem - and feel embarrassed but want to share in case I can help someone else.
I have changed all components in my cooling system as mentioned, Dewitt radiator, high-flow water pump. I also had tested my thermostat (180) and it opened when tested right at 180, no sweat. have 1/8" holes drilled in it to prevent air pockets (have none) but still had the issue of high rises in temperature at higher engine RPMs.
Well, it WAS my thermostat. I removed it and went for a 45 minute drive. Damned gauge never went about 160 or so, and NEVER MOVED. More research and I found that some people have had issues with (traditional) thermostats being forced closed at high RPM due to high water flow pumps. Recommendation is a high-flow thermostat (such as one from Moroso). Can't believe I waited 2 f&*%$ing years to check the thermostat.
I can now see that my shiny new Dewitt radiator (along with new seals etc) does an amazing job of keeping the motor very cool.
Happy camper.
I have changed all components in my cooling system as mentioned, Dewitt radiator, high-flow water pump. I also had tested my thermostat (180) and it opened when tested right at 180, no sweat. have 1/8" holes drilled in it to prevent air pockets (have none) but still had the issue of high rises in temperature at higher engine RPMs.
Well, it WAS my thermostat. I removed it and went for a 45 minute drive. Damned gauge never went about 160 or so, and NEVER MOVED. More research and I found that some people have had issues with (traditional) thermostats being forced closed at high RPM due to high water flow pumps. Recommendation is a high-flow thermostat (such as one from Moroso). Can't believe I waited 2 f&*%$ing years to check the thermostat.
I can now see that my shiny new Dewitt radiator (along with new seals etc) does an amazing job of keeping the motor very cool.
Happy camper.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
Well, it WAS my thermostat. I removed it and went for a 45 minute drive. Damned gauge never went about 160 or so, and NEVER MOVED. More research and I found that some people have had issues with (traditional) thermostats being forced closed at high RPM due to high water flow pumps. Recommendation is a high-flow thermostat (such as one from Moroso). Can't believe I waited 2 f&*%$ing years to check the thermostat.
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...ory_Code=Therm
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
well it took spinadog 2 years to get it figured out so maybe his pain will help me. I have tried everything else. So no worries Doug1 at least one of us got it figured out lol I just got home from work here in AZ so I am about to have a few beers myself.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 83
From: Titusville Florida
Not to jack but to maybe add and well maybe get myself and answer 
I had a flex fan(with no shroud), and hated it but it did keep the engine nice and cool, about 180 - 190 but I hate that damn flex fan so I bought a dual e fan setup with shroud, put them on and now like the OP at highway speeds 60 - 70 it heats up around 200 or so, but in stop and go traffic it's just fine. I do not have the foam on top of the radiator support so that's what I'm going to try next. The timing is set at initial of 12* don't know total. New motor with just over 500 miles but again with that damn flex fan that I hated (have I mentioned that) it kept it nice and cool. Oh, I do have a 180 t stat in it too with 2 gallons of anti freeze and an aluminum radiator (not Dewitts).
thanks for any and all suggestions.
I had a flex fan(with no shroud), and hated it but it did keep the engine nice and cool, about 180 - 190 but I hate that damn flex fan so I bought a dual e fan setup with shroud, put them on and now like the OP at highway speeds 60 - 70 it heats up around 200 or so, but in stop and go traffic it's just fine. I do not have the foam on top of the radiator support so that's what I'm going to try next. The timing is set at initial of 12* don't know total. New motor with just over 500 miles but again with that damn flex fan that I hated (have I mentioned that
) it kept it nice and cool. Oh, I do have a 180 t stat in it too with 2 gallons of anti freeze and an aluminum radiator (not Dewitts).thanks for any and all suggestions.
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 3
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 3
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
Or a balanced flow thermostat. Especially if you have a high flow water pump I could see this becoming a problem. You can pick one up at Oreilly's
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...ory_Code=Therm
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...ory_Code=Therm
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 3
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
azguy, get a fel-pro reusable t-stat housing gasket if you don't already have one. Makes removal and replacement so easy. best of luck.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Not to jack but to maybe add and well maybe get myself and answer
I had a flex fan(with no shroud), and hated it but it did keep the engine nice and cool, about 180 - 190 but I hate that damn flex fan so I bought a dual e fan setup with shroud, put them on and now like the OP at highway speeds 60 - 70 it heats up around 200 or so, but in stop and go traffic it's just fine. I do not have the foam on top of the radiator support so that's what I'm going to try next. The timing is set at initial of 12* don't know total. New motor with just over 500 miles but again with that damn flex fan that I hated (have I mentioned that) it kept it nice and cool. Oh, I do have a 180 t stat in it too with 2 gallons of anti freeze and an aluminum radiator (not Dewitts).
thanks for any and all suggestions.
I had a flex fan(with no shroud), and hated it but it did keep the engine nice and cool, about 180 - 190 but I hate that damn flex fan so I bought a dual e fan setup with shroud, put them on and now like the OP at highway speeds 60 - 70 it heats up around 200 or so, but in stop and go traffic it's just fine. I do not have the foam on top of the radiator support so that's what I'm going to try next. The timing is set at initial of 12* don't know total. New motor with just over 500 miles but again with that damn flex fan that I hated (have I mentioned that
) it kept it nice and cool. Oh, I do have a 180 t stat in it too with 2 gallons of anti freeze and an aluminum radiator (not Dewitts).thanks for any and all suggestions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 83
From: Titusville Florida
thanks AZ, yeah mine is certainly lower that yours by far. I have mine set to come on right after the 180 T stat opens then they shut off at I believe 160 if I remember right. My 180 seems to be just a hair above the first mark on the temp gauge with 200 being the next mark so I'm not too sure how accurate my gauge is. I do have a mechanical gauge I can put on it to check accuracy.
The thing that has me a bit worried is that when it got to the point of being it's hottest on the highway, up to almost the "200" mark it was on a nice day of only about 82 degrees and I had only been on the highway for about 4 -5 miles cruising at 65 MPH. So what happens next summer when it's 105 plus and If I am able to get the AC going by then too, well hopefully I can get the AC going before summer
Thanks again AZ
The thing that has me a bit worried is that when it got to the point of being it's hottest on the highway, up to almost the "200" mark it was on a nice day of only about 82 degrees and I had only been on the highway for about 4 -5 miles cruising at 65 MPH. So what happens next summer when it's 105 plus and If I am able to get the AC going by then too, well hopefully I can get the AC going before summer
Thanks again AZ
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Take it for a longer run and see if it goes up any higher, if it stays at or elow 200 you might just be throwing money away. That bieng said. Adding the seals bout me a good extra 10 minutes or more on overheating so if you dont have yours on I would get them and double check the reading on your gauge. Although if you didn't change your sender when you changed fans everything should still be relative to what you had before regardless of if it was accurate but never hurts to check.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
Airbornsilva, you could try what I did before I got an aluminum radiator. I added to the air dam with a piece of that stuff that goes along the bottom of a wall as a sort of kick board, can't remember what the stuff is called. It's about 4" by 4 feet and is made of either vinyl or rubber. You can pick it up at a home improvement store. Then attach it with aluminum poprivits and stainless steel fender washers like this.
[IMG]
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It was worth 15 to 30 degrees on the temp gauge depending on the day as near as I could figure. It also had a dramatic temperature lowering effect on the a/c temps on the highway.
I also added some sheet metal behind it to stiffen it up so it would not just bend over at high speeds.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]It was worth 15 to 30 degrees on the temp gauge depending on the day as near as I could figure. It also had a dramatic temperature lowering effect on the a/c temps on the highway.
I also added some sheet metal behind it to stiffen it up so it would not just bend over at high speeds.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
I found it easiest to take the air dam off and put it all together on a bench.
I have also notice that the the sheet metal does make a difference. In the center section I do not have any sheet metal reinforcement and after a drive I can see where the rubber has bent over in the middle vs the outer edges that are reinforced.
I have also notice that the the sheet metal does make a difference. In the center section I do not have any sheet metal reinforcement and after a drive I can see where the rubber has bent over in the middle vs the outer edges that are reinforced.