overheating problem
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,717
Likes: 121
From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
reading back through this thread I see where your oil temps were well above water temps.
According to a Hayden engineer of Hayden auto if the oil temps are above 200* then you will benefit from an engine oil cooler.
I know the resistance to try installing an engine oil cooler as I did the same thing but its the fastest way to add considerable capacity to the cooling system of your car. Think about it every tow vehicle along with just about every performance vehicle produced today has one installed from the factory and most radiators are single row (smaller then what we use).
There is no guarantee that this will fix your issue but look at all your symptoms and everything you've done to date. If you drive at speed and then pull over and check the radiator to see if the inlet side is the same temp as the outlet side then your radiator is saturated and will not reject more heat unless something is changed, more then likely more air flow is needed but there are limits to how much air we can get through the radiator. Adding the air dam under the nose of the car will help lower the air pressure on the back side of the radiator and will increase the air flow through the radiator to some extent.
The other side of the cooling system is the engine oil and looking back in your prior post your engine oil was in the 260* range when water temps were at 220* well over the normal 15 to 20* difference oil to water and well above 200* as recommended by Hayden. Think about the oil temps when your water temps are in the 240* plus range, you are exceeding the capability of the oil at this point (280* and above).
Just offering a up some food for thought,
Neal
According to a Hayden engineer of Hayden auto if the oil temps are above 200* then you will benefit from an engine oil cooler.
I know the resistance to try installing an engine oil cooler as I did the same thing but its the fastest way to add considerable capacity to the cooling system of your car. Think about it every tow vehicle along with just about every performance vehicle produced today has one installed from the factory and most radiators are single row (smaller then what we use).
There is no guarantee that this will fix your issue but look at all your symptoms and everything you've done to date. If you drive at speed and then pull over and check the radiator to see if the inlet side is the same temp as the outlet side then your radiator is saturated and will not reject more heat unless something is changed, more then likely more air flow is needed but there are limits to how much air we can get through the radiator. Adding the air dam under the nose of the car will help lower the air pressure on the back side of the radiator and will increase the air flow through the radiator to some extent.
The other side of the cooling system is the engine oil and looking back in your prior post your engine oil was in the 260* range when water temps were at 220* well over the normal 15 to 20* difference oil to water and well above 200* as recommended by Hayden. Think about the oil temps when your water temps are in the 240* plus range, you are exceeding the capability of the oil at this point (280* and above).
Just offering a up some food for thought,
Neal
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
OK I got the flaps in the mail today and got them installed. It didn't suck the flaps shut when I had the car idling but it seemed to cool it off anyway. Test driving and pictures tomorrow. If I can't get it to cool the regular way I will add the oil cooler. Do they mount in front of the radiator?
