Are there any recomendations for a good (least money) source for a rotating assembly for a stroker kit? I want flat tops, H beam 6 inch rods, Hoping for a forged crank and internally balanced, but I am shooting for about 400-450HP so a cast crank would be ok. Gonna use RHS 70CC 202-160 heads 1500-6500 RPM with a recommended cam to keep it right about there. Should be no more than 10-1 compression when I am done. But I was just fishing for a supplier that anyone here would recommend that won't break the bank. The rod length I want is keeping my options limited. My 4 bolt 010 block is ready for the machine shop and I wanted to nail down the internals before I take it in in case I need clearancing or they ask any questions. I really would like to have the pistons in hand in case the shop wants them, a lot do. Not really lookin for a critique on my choices...I am just excited to get this party started!! Going from the L-81(which will be stored) to this stroker will be a fun upgrade for sure!!Thanks.

 

You could get by with I beams no problem unless youre stuck on the heavier rod
5140 cast crank
Youll need smaller than 70cc to get 10:1
I think the avg FT piston with 3cc(??) relief with 64cc and .005 in the hole might get you 10, 10.3 depending on head gasket. Off top of my head figures so they wont be exactly accurate but in the ballpark

 

Im not stuck on 70, there are a lot more options in 64 anyway, yea I think the I beam would be ok too, just wanted the best bang for the buck but the average kit with a cast crank and I beams are easy to find. But I am not set on 10-1 either, just no hogher is what I should have said. I want to run pump gas. when I narrow it down I will rerun the calculator on all of the parts. Thanks.

 

H beam rods totally not needed at 400-450 HP. This kit is internally balanced, Scat 9000 crank, forged pistons, 6" scat 4349 forged I beams, ARP 2000 bolt upgrade available and balancing available.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/rotat...pistons-1.html

 

Very nice kit and good price! Bookmarked! Thanks!

 

Take a look at Flatlander Racing for rotating assemblies:http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevysbcast.html Great Prices.

cardo0

 

Nice site and prices as well! Thanks!

 

Cruise is right on the money...as usual. My .02$, dont get the cart before the horse. Specing out the bottom end is the last part of the parts list to fill in. If you would like advice on the details there are some very knowledgeable guys that frequent this board.

Cheapest place to buy? Jegs, Summit, Skip White, Flatlander. Before you start laying down your $$...

1 what grade fuel? Spray?
2 what does the engine need to do? (Smooth 1800rpm cruise? autox DE's drags? low maintenance? 500 mile weekend cruise? Daily driver?)
3 budget?
4 what parts do you all ready have?

edit; With a 3.75 stroke I would use the Scat Pro Comp I beam because it is more than strong enough, reasonably light and most important it is stroker clearanced. Be sure to talk to Scat befor you buy. I would want a piston that can use a modern ring package. Holy Smokes! 5 posts while I was coming up with a post! Good to see Mako chime in.

 

pre balanced kits have a huge advantage because the suppler has matched up components that will balance without slugs. As well as fit each other.

 

This horse has been beat to death here with a zillion threads on the issue and I have read them all, but never too old to learn something new. I also have a friend who had a shop with his dad for over 20 years until his dad died and left unknown debt which made him have to sell it off. I was asking for overbuilt parts so if in the future I won't need to replace things if I want add a few more ponies. But to answer your question, I want to run pump gas, no extreme long distance to speak of, after the rear end is replaced and the tranny is in it may see some track time at Hallet in the touring class(1.7 mile road course). NOT a DD. Budget is whatever I want to spend on it. The Horsepower number of 4-450 is based solely on trying to keep it fairly mild mannered but still be fun to drive. Why would the bottem end be last? My block is ready for the shop, I have a good idea what heads I want when all of the numbers on paper fall into place. I have a full set of SS 202-160 valves and springs good to .550 lift(won't go that high) I am asking these things to find a good starting point for the assembly. I won't buy anything until I have every single detail speced and know exactly what I need. I have looked at Jegs, Summit, speedway etc, just wanted a for more options. And yea, I agree on the stroker cleareanced crank, that will save me a few bucks at the shop since I am using an older block, Thanks.

 

I agree that is what I want. Thanks

 

Advocating bottom end last because piston shape and reciprocating kit is dictated by intake valve closeing point, cyl head, rpm range and a couple other details. Good to hear you already have a handle on that.

"track time at Hallet in the touring class(1.7 mile road course)." That sounds like a major blast!

 

also look at competition products,better prices then summit and jegs.

 

One of the Scat balanced kits is the best buy if you're going with a cast crank. IMHO, a cast crank -> hypereutectic pistons; I don't see the value in forged pistons with a cast crank - if you need forged pistons from a power-adder or HP perspective...then you need a forged crank. It can also make balancing interesting, as the bobweight is a fair bit different. Avoid Eagle cast cranks, period.

As for design, it all has to work together - so just start fitting together all aspects of the design...just don't BUY anything until the design is DONE.

I sometimes end up with guys having expen$ive "leftover" stuff because they get excited and buy parts before the design is frozen...even when I tell them specifically and with emphasis not to. It's a sure way to end up spending more $$$.

 

My FT 383 is 10.4 to 1 with 72 CC heads. Need 76 CC if you have good quench to stay @ 10 to 1. The forged pistons in the kit I linked cost $80 over the KB hypers. Money well spent especially since you mentioned you may add "a few more ponies" later and your already at 450 and 10 to 1. Your almost at the point I would go with a forged crank. If you want a great rotating assembly that will take anything you want to throw at it with H beams this one is a great combo.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/rotat...chevy-384.html

 

Thanks. And that class is a timed class, kind of like brackets, you race for time, and gain points for time every week. After that you can move into racing against others on the track at the same time. Being a novice I better start by myself. I have done 2 track days there and had a freakin blast, nothin like running flat out. I was in my old stang, can't wait to get on there in the Vette.

 

What I have so far(on paper)....12CC Dished pistons, 70CC heads with a .015 gasket(fel pro 10094 steel embossed gasket) and a .020 deck, thats keeps me from needing the block decked. I will need to use 6 inch rods and short skirt pistons. But that should get me at 9.78:1( I wanted it a tad lower than my initial after more research and how I want to drive it)

And using a Comp cams 268H Cam I can get by with my stock rear end for now and stock converter, but I plan a new converter while the engine is out, may go 2200 stall. And eventually a new rear gear, but I can recam at that point if I need to. This cam will make the power where I want it and the intake will work well with it.

The heads I am looking at are RHS aluminum 70CC and I will put 202-160 SS valves in them with springs that will handle lift up to .525 lift if I ever decide too in the future. I already have the valves and associated parts. Probably will go with roller tipped rockers. All of that should net about 450 HP if I calculated right, but it should be a fun driver and run easily on pump gas. I will use I beam rods, and a cast stroker clearanced crank internally balanced. Performer RPM Intake, with my recently rebuilt Qjet on top. That with my headers and 2.5 true duals I already have should flow well and run good. If anyone sees an issue with this setup please let me know. Thanks!

 

Looks like a good plan - one thing to note is that a) the block deck height can vary quite a bit on a stock block and b) you won't know until teardown how much of a cut is needed on the deck to make it smooth (and if you pay for it - square). An .003 cut is pretty typical.

 

Yea, the block I am using is aprt on the stand in the garage. It looks good, but when it goes in to be magnafluxed and honed, I will have them check it and square it as well. If it has already been decked to any real degree (the block is already .030 over but had very little miles on it) then I will adjust my gasket to change the quench a little. If the compression varies a bit thats ok. I will be talking to my shop this week so they and I have all the info before I take it in. Thanks thats a good point.

 

When I started reading the thread, I was questioning your running with flat-top pistons without even considering the top end. Oversize valves or a large cam could lead to your wanting a little more clearance. Easy to accomodate now...tougher to accomodate after you've made the investment.