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The engine was setup with the timing locked out at 33 degrees. After 2000 miles it started running rough so I decided to replace the distributor so I could tune it in.
The recommended starting point for this engine with a big cam was 20 initial and the black bushing which gave 38 total. In order to get the best performance I had to go 10 initial, the red bushing for 34 total and the light silver springs for all in at 2600.
Does this sound right? Is this because the distributor doesn't have a vacuum or maybe I am off a tooth with the distributor?
The only issue is at 2500-3000 RPMs it runs rough and vibrates. Seems to fade out over 3K. Not sure if that is engine or drivetrain.
383, compcam XE284H, Bowtie heads .205, MSD 6AL Ignition, MSD Pro-Billet 85551 distro, AED Holley 650 (set idle jets for max vacuum of 9.5Hg.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by obas
The recommended starting point for this engine with a big cam was 20 initial and the black bushing which gave 38 total. In order to get the best performance I had to go 10 initial, the red bushing for 34 total and the light silver springs for all in at 2600.
Does this sound right? Is this because the distributor doesn't have a vacuum or maybe I am off a tooth with the distributor?
The only issue is at 2500-3000 RPMs it runs rough and vibrates. Seems to fade out over 3K. Not sure if that is engine or drivetrain.
With no vacuum advance and that cam, you should be running about 20 - 24 degrees initial timing and a very short curve to limit total to about 32 - 34. Bring it "all-in" by 2600 - 2800. Running only 10 initial doesn't sound right at all - that's way too retarded for that cam. I'm running a roller cam with very similar specs, and I'm running 20 initial with a 12-degree vacuum advance unit to allow me to idle at about 32 degrees of timing - this produces very good throttle response and idle quality.
Being "off a tooth" has no effect on timing - it only affects the cosmetic installed orientation of the distributor.
Timing won't cause a vibration issue or a roughness issue.
Actually I started with the light silver and blue spring and the timing was coming all in at 2900 so I changed it to both silver springs thinking I needed more advance at 2600 to get rid of the vibration. Didn't help.
Thanks for replying Lars. The majority of my timing knowledge comes from your posts and the email you sent me. It was another post by you and Holley's recommendation that made me concerned about having to set the initial timing at 10 degrees.
As far as having the distributor gear off a tooth, I don't think I explained it well or I have a misconception. When the engine was at TDC I lined up the rotor with the plug #1, however, because of the way the shaft rotates dropping in I am thinking I have the rotor just before plug #1 causing to much advance. In turn I am having to excessively retard the timing to make up for it.
I will address the vibration outside of this thread.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by obas
When the engine was at TDC I lined up the rotor with the plug #1, however, because of the way the shaft rotates dropping in I am thinking I have the rotor just before plug #1 causing to much advance. In turn I am having to excessively retard the timing to make up for it.
Not possible. Timing is timing. You can drop the distributor in any location and on any gear tooth engagement, you you can time it just fine. It's only the cosmetic clocking of the distributor housing that changes once you then time it. If the timing light is flashing at 33 degrees, the timing is at 33 degrees. Moving the distributor 1 tooth and then re-timing it will do nothing other than change the installed clocking orientation of the distributor housing relative to the block.