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I've seen similar post to this but I'm curious what people with similar set ups are using. I have a 74 with a 496 that dynoed at 603 hp. I'm using a weiand stealth intake. I currently have a Holley 4150 750 dp on it. This is great for the strip but no bueno for the street. I would like to still have electric choke and mechanical secondarys if possible. I don't have a brand preference just want it to work.
So what would be the best options for street use and still kick butt on the strip?
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
750 CFM is way too small for a healthy 496. Heck, I'll be installing >900 on my next street 427 currently in the works. That said, if good manners and decent MPG without giving up too awful much performance is what you're after, you might be a very good candidate for a Tri-power setup. My $.02
Wheres the quadrajet recommendations, they are the fix all, do all carb!
Just send it off for a complete redo and it will work just fine they guarantee it!
Wheres the quadrajet recommendations, they are the fix all, do all carb!
Just send it off for a complete redo and it will work just fine they guarantee it!
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
750 CFM is way too small for a healthy 496. Heck, I'll be installing >900 on my next street 427 currently in the works. That said, if good manners and decent MPG without giving up too awful much performance is what you're after, you might be a very good candidate for a Tri-power setup. My $.02
I swapped out my 780 Holley for an 850, and the difference was very noticeable. I'm just running a fuel sipping 427, but I'd like to bump up the carb size again in the near future.
So bigger carb is better? I was thinking going down to 650. I have been told by some strip racers that its alot of carb for the street. The reason for the switch is if I'm on the gas it's an awesome ride but I can't drive everywhere at full out. I have those pesky stop signs and traffic. The carb I have could use some going over but it's the end of a project and ill take a straight out of the box solution.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by gmg1977
So bigger carb is better? I was thinking going down to 650. I have been told by some strip racers that its alot of carb for the street. The reason for the switch is if I'm on the gas it's an awesome ride but I can't drive everywhere at full out. I have those pesky stop signs and traffic. The carb I have could use some going over but it's the end of a project and ill take a straight out of the box solution.
(Psssst, you can modulate the amount of air that will be going into the engine.)
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by 69427
(Psssst, you can modulate the amount of air that will be going into the engine.)
True. Unfortunately, the more impractical is the amount of torque/power in relation to given traction limits, the more difficult is throttle modulation to finesse. Suggest a "softer" throttle progression might help a little.
And, you should definitely tune any carb (but only after the ignition system is 100%).
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I agree with the above posts: 750 is way too small for that engine, and I can't believe someone actually suggested you drop down to a 650... I'd run at least an 850. The Holley Ultra Series and HP are nice carbs, and QuickFuel, Demon, AED, and ProForm all make some excellent 4150-style double pumper carbs that would suit your application. There is no need for a choke on those carbs if the carb is set up correctly.
Originally Posted by gmg1977
So bigger carb is better?
It's not that bigger is better. "Correct size" is better, and 750 is too small for your engine. 850 - 900 would be about "correct" for the engine you're running.
Originally Posted by gmg1977
ill take a straight out of the box solution.
There's no such thing. Any carb you buy will need to be properly set up and tuned for your application, along with a correct ignition timing curve.
Sounds like it just needs a fine tune.
I am running a much larger carb with a ratty cam on a sbc and can sit in traffic anywhere, good manners. Was impressed with AED carbs
If you have adjustable IAB and such that can make the difference between a carb that runs Ok or one that is stellar. Once your motor gets to a certain point its almost mandatory. A factory calibrated carb can only do so much
Thanks everybody for the feedback. So the smaller carb is not a solution. So I can move on from that. Now I'm looking at it from a cost standpoint. If I tune my 750 will I be happy with performance and still be streetable or step up to an 850 which I still have to tune.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
True. Unfortunately, the more impractical is the amount of torque/power in relation to given traction limits, the more difficult is throttle modulation to finesse. Suggest a "softer" throttle progression might help a little.
And, you should definitely tune any carb (but only after the ignition system is 100%).
I was referring to his stop sign and traffic "worry". He shouldn't be in the throttle far enough to have to worry about traction limits on city streets.
I think a big problem is that people think "runs fine" means "well-tuned".
You can have an engine that runs 12:1 EVERYWHERE and will run fine. That engine may actually make more power with a leaner curve, and it certainly will get more fuel economy if you can get the cruise AFR leaner. A well-tuned carb will get much better fuel economy, have crisp throttle response, and haul butt.
Most carb manufacturers err on the side of rich, as it will play nice and not likely blow the motor if you throw it on and wind it out.
I managed to get my hands on a Holley 4780 which I believe is an 800 cfm. Didnt cost me anything just traded a friend for some extra parts I had. It does need a rebuild kit but I got one included in the deal. Ive read a few things on the web talking about tuning Holleys. Is there any inside info anyone could give me that would make this job easier. Ive always had electronic controlled cars so Ive never had to mess with tuning unless you count dirtbikes, but that was just one big ****.
Even electronic cars can benefit a lot from tuning. GM runs their stock tunes extremely rich during the PE(power enrichment, WOT) tables.
I personally use a wideband and aim for stoich for cruise/idle. For a NA application 12.5-12.8 is generally "good", but it really depends on what your motor wants. An engine dyno or drag strip are the best places to figure that out...
I'm not much up on Holley tuning, but there's probably a million guides out there. Quadrajets make more sense to me.