Here is what I got done tonight, motor out 1 head off to look inside. These heads appear to be different than 882's but you guys can tell me that and all about them I am sure.
Thanks!






Yours truely on the right!

I did look in all the cylinders and they appear to be in goo shape no lip or scratches anyway.

 

I guess the 624 head get about the same review as the 882's ha!

 

good news on cylinder walls, find out where the metal in oil pan came from yet?

 

hi performance L82 smog heads. cracksters.

 

Yet those are 2.02 intake-valve heads. If they aren't cracked, they are a performance(ish) head.... even if they are cracked, save the valves for your next project.

It also looks like you had plenty of predetonation
I'm concerned about the oil around that intake valve (top) because it looks like it's been smoking/burning for awhile However, someone has done some work to those heads - note the guide plates and the screw-in studs? neither of those are stock-gm.


this is why you fix pre-detonation immediately... notices at the top, on the block, how the cast-iron is no longer smooth? When the motor predetonates, it starts attacking the head gaskets here. At minimum you need to have the top of the block resurfaced. I would reuse the pistons (good news?) because those look like forged flat tops. Again, this motor has been worked on with decent parts.



this is the cylinder that worries me the most (below) - it looks like you were very close to losing a head gasket. because of pre-detonation.


now, before you rush off and trade your Corvette for a Camry - this isn't that huge of a deal. Resurfacing doesn't cost much (like less than $100). As you see, there's little or no ridge, so while the motor is at the machine shop, have them hone it for moly rings and then run it through their spray tank (unless the cam bearings are showing copper, you do not need to remove or replace). Clean the pistons, and show us pictures of all the bearings as you remove them. The bottom end should already be marked (if not, you need to mark which rod/piston belong in which hole).

 

Not yet I am going to pull the other head tonight but suspect maybe rod bearings.

 

Great and thanks! The reason I said good news it didn't appear to have deep scratches or anything.
Advice on how to clean the pistons would be a big help also. I would in now way trade this car for anything, much less a Camry! Ha!

 

Stock GM on LT1/L82 (at least on my 73)

 

the implication being the heads the OP posted don't come with guide plates.... sorry for the confusion

 

brake cleaner works well in a pinch, using a blasting media like soda works too. The most important part isn't getting the carbon off the top; the biggest thing to do is clean the grooves. There is a special tool that does it


But in a pinch, a pick, small screwdriver and/or a broken ring can work (break the ring in half, flip it over, then use the jagged edge to clean the groove)

I can't tell from your pictures on the scratches; however, the test is if you can catch a nail in the groove, you need to do something about it... how deep determines how intrusive the fix. Worst case, $80 to bore the block .030 over, and (last I checked) another $150 or so for forged pistons plus pressing them on ($30-50)

For the chalk and mark folks - those numbers are ESTIMATES, location, shop, and whether or not the machinist needs to make a house payment can cause those numbers to vary greatly.

That said, I did a 350 with complete machine work (crack check, machine, cam bearings, freeze plugs, full clean) and the cost was $1600 with the good stuff parts (parts were $450).

Note I didn't say anything about heads.... a 'normal' machine of heads is $500.00 with viton seals and one or two replaced valves.... which brings full circle to my advice about Vortec heads, new, at $650.

Add to that, cam, lifters, and rockers for ~500

to complete
You can save TONS of money by shopping - that same motor with good shopping techniques shouldn't cost more than 1500 complete (machining, heads, cam). Just one variance to illustrate my point. I had a machine shop "recommended" that charged me 1350 for a block prep, bore, piston press.... they sucked, poor work, etc.... I have another shop (I use currently) same basic work on a non-standard block (Buick).... $750 and their work was better by any measure.

 

The ring groove cleaner/scraper is one of the better ones on the market. It's good enough you need to watch how deep you scrape the carbon from the ring grooves. It's entirely possible to cut the top completely off of a piston with it. Not being sarcastic here. That really is a good scraper- very efficient and easy to use.

 

sounds like a fun challenge.....

 

Check out this plug! It only has 50 miles on it!!! WOW! tHIS WAS CYLINDER #8

 

wow! doesn't look like it was firing, looks like the carbon shorted it out

 

The if I pulled out when I replaced them looked the same way but a little worse!

 

rings, at minimum... before you spend a dime on this motor, do a cost analysis of what it will cost to build a long-block; then check out what's out there.... I suspect that you could get a 383 long block for a reasonable price

 

Tonight I pulled the other head!

 

Something to think about......

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet

It's a pretty good deal, for what your getting.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

Please help me understand what you mean, scrap what I already have?.... You guys are probably thinking this guy knows nothing! What is he doing attempting this? HAHA

 

I noticed on top of one of the pistons there is a 030 stamped on it. Does that mean it was bored 30 over?