My first rebuild
11-21-2012, 12:09 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
My first rebuild
Here is what I got done tonight, motor out 1 head off to look inside. These heads appear to be different than 882's but you guys can tell me that and all about them I am sure.
Thanks!
Yours truely on the right! 
I did look in all the cylinders and they appear to be in goo shape no lip or scratches anyway.
Thanks!
Yours truely on the right! I did look in all the cylinders and they appear to be in goo shape no lip or scratches anyway.
11-21-2012, 01:00 AM
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
Here is what I got done tonight, motor out 1 head off to look inside. These heads appear to be different than 882's but you guys can tell me that and all about them I am sure.
Thanks!
Yours truely on the right!
I did look in all the cylinders and they appear to be in goo shape no lip or scratches anyway.
Thanks!
Yours truely on the right! I did look in all the cylinders and they appear to be in goo shape no lip or scratches anyway.
I guess the 624 head get about the same review as the 882's ha!
11-21-2012, 08:38 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
hi performance L82 smog heads. cracksters.
11-21-2012, 10:21 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
Yet those are 2.02 intake-valve heads. If they aren't cracked, they are a performance(ish) head.... even if they are cracked, save the valves for your next project.
It also looks like you had plenty of predetonation
I'm concerned about the oil around that intake valve (top) because it looks like it's been smoking/burning for awhile However, someone has done some work to those heads - note the guide plates and the screw-in studs? neither of those are stock-gm.
this is why you fix pre-detonation immediately... notices at the top, on the block, how the cast-iron is no longer smooth? When the motor predetonates, it starts attacking the head gaskets here. At minimum you need to have the top of the block resurfaced. I would reuse the pistons (good news?) because those look like forged flat tops. Again, this motor has been worked on with decent parts.
this is the cylinder that worries me the most (below) - it looks like you were very close to losing a head gasket. because of pre-detonation.
now, before you rush off and trade your Corvette for a Camry - this isn't that huge of a deal. Resurfacing doesn't cost much (like less than $100). As you see, there's little or no ridge, so while the motor is at the machine shop, have them hone it for moly rings and then run it through their spray tank (unless the cam bearings are showing copper, you do not need to remove or replace). Clean the pistons, and show us pictures of all the bearings as you remove them. The bottom end should already be marked (if not, you need to mark which rod/piston belong in which hole).
It also looks like you had plenty of predetonation
I'm concerned about the oil around that intake valve (top) because it looks like it's been smoking/burning for awhile However, someone has done some work to those heads - note the guide plates and the screw-in studs? neither of those are stock-gm.
this is why you fix pre-detonation immediately... notices at the top, on the block, how the cast-iron is no longer smooth? When the motor predetonates, it starts attacking the head gaskets here. At minimum you need to have the top of the block resurfaced. I would reuse the pistons (good news?) because those look like forged flat tops. Again, this motor has been worked on with decent parts.
this is the cylinder that worries me the most (below) - it looks like you were very close to losing a head gasket. because of pre-detonation.
now, before you rush off and trade your Corvette for a Camry - this isn't that huge of a deal. Resurfacing doesn't cost much (like less than $100). As you see, there's little or no ridge, so while the motor is at the machine shop, have them hone it for moly rings and then run it through their spray tank (unless the cam bearings are showing copper, you do not need to remove or replace). Clean the pistons, and show us pictures of all the bearings as you remove them. The bottom end should already be marked (if not, you need to mark which rod/piston belong in which hole).
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 11-21-2012 at 10:36 AM.
11-21-2012, 10:50 AM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
11-21-2012, 10:58 AM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yet those are 2.02 intake-valve heads. If they aren't cracked, they are a performance(ish) head.... even if they are cracked, save the valves for your next project.
It also looks like you had plenty of predetonation
I'm concerned about the oil around that intake valve (top) because it looks like it's been smoking/burning for awhile However, someone has done some work to those heads - note the guide plates and the screw-in studs? neither of those are stock-gm.
this is why you fix pre-detonation immediately... notices at the top, on the block, how the cast-iron is no longer smooth? When the motor predetonates, it starts attacking the head gaskets here. At minimum you need to have the top of the block resurfaced. I would reuse the pistons (good news?) because those look like forged flat tops. Again, this motor has been worked on with decent parts.
this is the cylinder that worries me the most (below) - it looks like you were very close to losing a head gasket. because of pre-detonation.
now, before you rush off and trade your Corvette for a Camry - this isn't that huge of a deal. Resurfacing doesn't cost much (like less than $100). As you see, there's little or no ridge, so while the motor is at the machine shop, have them hone it for moly rings and then run it through their spray tank (unless the cam bearings are showing copper, you do not need to remove or replace). Clean the pistons, and show us pictures of all the bearings as you remove them. The bottom end should already be marked (if not, you need to mark which rod/piston belong in which hole).
It also looks like you had plenty of predetonation
I'm concerned about the oil around that intake valve (top) because it looks like it's been smoking/burning for awhile However, someone has done some work to those heads - note the guide plates and the screw-in studs? neither of those are stock-gm.
this is why you fix pre-detonation immediately... notices at the top, on the block, how the cast-iron is no longer smooth? When the motor predetonates, it starts attacking the head gaskets here. At minimum you need to have the top of the block resurfaced. I would reuse the pistons (good news?) because those look like forged flat tops. Again, this motor has been worked on with decent parts.
this is the cylinder that worries me the most (below) - it looks like you were very close to losing a head gasket. because of pre-detonation.
now, before you rush off and trade your Corvette for a Camry - this isn't that huge of a deal. Resurfacing doesn't cost much (like less than $100). As you see, there's little or no ridge, so while the motor is at the machine shop, have them hone it for moly rings and then run it through their spray tank (unless the cam bearings are showing copper, you do not need to remove or replace). Clean the pistons, and show us pictures of all the bearings as you remove them. The bottom end should already be marked (if not, you need to mark which rod/piston belong in which hole).
Advice on how to clean the pistons would be a big help also. I would in now way trade this car for anything, much less a Camry! Ha!
11-21-2012, 02:10 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: Airdrie Alberta
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However, someone has done some work to those heads - note the guide plates and the screw-in studs? neither of those are stock-gm
11-21-2012, 05:21 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
11-21-2012, 05:30 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
But in a pinch, a pick, small screwdriver and/or a broken ring can work (break the ring in half, flip it over, then use the jagged edge to clean the groove)
I can't tell from your pictures on the scratches; however, the test is if you can catch a nail in the groove, you need to do something about it... how deep determines how intrusive the fix. Worst case, $80 to bore the block .030 over, and (last I checked) another $150 or so for forged pistons plus pressing them on ($30-50)
For the chalk and mark folks - those numbers are ESTIMATES, location, shop, and whether or not the machinist needs to make a house payment can cause those numbers to vary greatly.
That said, I did a 350 with complete machine work (crack check, machine, cam bearings, freeze plugs, full clean) and the cost was $1600 with the good stuff parts (parts were $450).
Note I didn't say anything about heads.... a 'normal' machine of heads is $500.00 with viton seals and one or two replaced valves.... which brings full circle to my advice about Vortec heads, new, at $650.
Add to that, cam, lifters, and rockers for ~500
to complete
You can save TONS of money by shopping - that same motor with good shopping techniques shouldn't cost more than 1500 complete (machining, heads, cam). Just one variance to illustrate my point. I had a machine shop "recommended" that charged me 1350 for a block prep, bore, piston press.... they sucked, poor work, etc.... I have another shop (I use currently) same basic work on a non-standard block (Buick).... $750 and their work was better by any measure.
11-21-2012, 05:57 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
The ring groove cleaner/scraper is one of the better ones on the market. It's good enough you need to watch how deep you scrape the carbon from the ring grooves. It's entirely possible to cut the top completely off of a piston with it. Not being sarcastic here. That really is a good scraper- very efficient and easy to use.
11-21-2012, 06:14 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
The ring groove cleaner/scraper is one of the better ones on the market. It's good enough you need to watch how deep you scrape the carbon from the ring grooves. It's entirely possible to cut the top completely off of a piston with it. Not being sarcastic here. That really is a good scraper- very efficient and easy to use.
11-21-2012, 09:07 PM
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
11-21-2012, 10:52 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
rings, at minimum... before you spend a dime on this motor, do a cost analysis of what it will cost to build a long-block; then check out what's out there.... I suspect that you could get a 383 long block for a reasonable price
11-21-2012, 11:22 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Something to think about......
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet
It's a pretty good deal, for what your getting.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...make/chevrolet
It's a pretty good deal, for what your getting.
Keep the shiny side up!
Scott
11-21-2012, 11:23 PM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
You guys are probably thinking this guy knows nothing! What is he doing attempting this? HAHA