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Great choice of upgrade parts. You are doing exactly what I would have recommended to you if you posted a thread questioning what parts to upgrade with.
Cam is in.
Took two people to juggle the radiator and shroud.
Had to remove the hood to get the AC radiator to move enough for the cam to clear.
Had to remove the upper (straight) transmission cooler hardline and fitting from the radiator to clear the A-arm.
Also had to loosen the fitting on the Ac radiator to get enough wiggle room.
I Installed a Lunati cam button behind the stock cover and had right at .005 end play. The short water pump should prevent much more than that due to flex, so I should be fine.
Timing chain, timing cover, oil pan and new oil pump are done.
Steering linkage reinstalled.
Balancer, water pump and accessories will have to wait for tomorrow.
I think Ill need shorter pushrods too, the roller lifters are about a full inch longer than the factory hyd lifters.
don't work on the valve train when drinking.lol dose the water pump have a bolt hole on the bottom for a bolt to butt up against the timing chain cover ?you can buy a valve train geometry checker to help measure for the correct length push rod,try jegs or summit.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
If u changed the oil pump then did u measure the pick up tube/screen clearance to the oil pan? Need to get to the toy store and buy some play-dough for this or clay will work. Yep, put the clay in the pan - with gasket - and bolt her up then drop again to measure. Without this your pickup screen may or may not be a correct location to get the oil supply u changed the pump for in the first place. BTW the stock pump would have done the job.
Yes p-rod length is critical to prevent the rocker tips from side loading the vlv stems. Sorry, but i don't know how to measure for large changes. The ProForm or MOROSO checkers work for the minor length changes - but u gonn'a need a larger tool/adjustment than they can provide.
So your complaining to the choir to remove the hood and radiator/core support. U will get better at it the more times to have to do it.
Slow down and ask more questions if you want pre-emptive help. Or just tell me to shut up and i'll go away Don.
All advice is welcome....its not my first rodeo....just been a long time.
Set the oil pump height already before I hammered it together.
I went with a new oil pump just since I was there....one less worry.
I have 1/2" shorter pushrods, and I just realized that while the roller lifters are an inch taller, the pushrod seat is only 1/2". its recessed into the body....so no worries. (They ended up being as close as perfect as you could expect!)
No bolt on the water pump, but it does seat up tight against the cover.
Last edited by DucatiDon; Dec 17, 2012 at 09:18 PM.
AC bracket needed a little clearancing to bolt up properly. And the thick valve cover gasket caused interference between the valve cover and the air pump bracket. Otherwise its been pretty straight forward.
Blacked the valve tip with a sharpie. Assembled the valve train and turned the motor over a few times. mark was just slightly off center. I did not have a solid roller lifter to use, so its as close as i can get it with hyd lifters.
Frankly, I "guessed". Ordered pushrods 1/2" shorter and lucked out.
I was prepared to buy a pushrod checker if the shorter rods failed me,
It was well over budget.
$3800 ALL said and done.
$1500 heads
$200 intake
$200 roller rockers.
$100 pushrods.
$800 mcjacks headers
$1000 roller cam lifters and gaskets.
$100 in misc ss fasteners.
Plus chemicals and now an air cleaner.
Another $2500 and id have had a 383.
I did all the work myself, so no mechanic or shop fees.
Goes to show that a crate motor is very economical.
Next up is $5k for a 5speed conversion.
Originally Posted by redman76
Really sounds good when idling.
KISS ROCKS
Last edited by DucatiDon; Dec 18, 2012 at 09:20 PM.
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