Ok...

1: Any suggestions on a relay?
2: I am not running points. Running the Pertronix setup in the OEM distributor.

So, if I am understanding you right... I should have a relay, I tap into the purple wire TO the relay, then FROM the relay I tap into the yellow wire?

Not big into electronics (as if you cant tell that already)... Suggestions on a relay? All the prewired ones I see have more then 2 wires. Could you clear this up for me? I say this on ebay, something like this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-2001/media/images

 

Well, just got off the phone with summit. Here is what I found out.

1: When using a Pertronix Ignitor like I have and a different non Delco starter you do not need the yellow wire from the starter to the coil. Just the purple to solenoid, 12v from batt, red to the same terminal as the batt, and a ground.

2: You also DO NOT need the resistor wire to the coil. The Pertronix units require a solid 12v all the time. So I need to tap a 12v from an accessory source. Just not sure where the best place to pull this from. Any ideas guys? I could run a wire back to the fuse box. But I think I have 2 items running off this already.

 

put a diode (4 Amps or higher) in that wire and it will work
Will cost only some cents and no extra wires. I have this done in my Vette too.
Because i have the original TI ignition im my car.

In your case i would rather take the switched 12V like they told you.
If you still have the resistor wire from the original ignition, follow or pull it.
Somewhere it is connected to a normal wire, thats the point you should
get the switched 12V.

 

Think I would rather hit the actual 12v wire... Just hate the idea of cracking open the harness wrapping. Just got her all together and looking good. But totally could do that if need be.

 

This is the correct answer, you do not need the yellow wire with the starter you have.
Just tape it off.

For full 12 volts to the coil tap off the IGN terminal at the fuse box.

 

Ok, does the ACC still keep power if the car is running?

 

No need to crack open your new harness. Pick up the 12 volts for the Petronix from the IGN fuse block terminal as pictured above. That's exactly where the HEI in the 68 is powered from.

Tape the resistor wire back on the harness and cover the terminal that originally attached to the coil.

I believe tha ACC terminal is hot in both the ACC and Run positions on the key switch. It may not be hot when the key switch is in the start position, easily checked with a test light. The IGN terminal is hot in the crank as well as the Run position.

Also run an inline fuse on the wire going to the Petronix. Just in case the wire shorts on something. Don't want major damage to the fuse block harness or fusible links to happen.

 

change the hot wire to a non-resistor wire and you're good to go. No need to rewire from the fuse box. Also no need to wire the yellow wire at all. The yellow wire provides 12v to the points on start up to aid starting. The only issue with removing is the resistor wire won't give you 12v to the pertronix, so that's why you simply change the + wire to the coil.

 

Well, if you put a new wire into the compartment and want it looking good, so you have to wrap it too.
And a plug in the middle of the fuse box doesn´t look that good too.
But sure it will work.
(But look like Bubba-work )

 

BTW the ACC looses power when in the start position (just tested it)... Makes sense sending all power to the starter.

 

Well rewired it all. I pulled the 12v direct from the IGN on the panel. Cut the resistor wire and yellow wire and cleaned it up where it came out of the harness near the distributor. I just hope I do not have an issue. On the IGN I also have the 12v for the two SPAL fans.

No idea if this will be an issue or not. Ideas?

 

You should be good to go but as someone suggested above, it might be good to have fuses in those two circuits that are connected to the IGN terminal. I don't think it is fused.

 

Are you powering the SPAL fans from IGN terminal or using it for a relay to power the fans? If powering the fans this terminal is not designed to handle that current load.

 

what he said, the fuse panel should only be used to run relays.

it's not Bubba if there's a plug, it is Bubba if you think the little tabs that hold the fuse in place are for connecting your wires

 

The others are right. You should not run the fans with the power from the ignition switch.
Put a relay near the horn relay, there you can get 12V with enough amps. The alternator is connected directly here.
From this additional relay you feed your fans. Take the switched 12V from the wire you are already running to the fans.
It should pass the horn relay anyway, so you can keep your wrapped wires

 

I got the Rad and SPAL fans from Dewitt and he said to have the power to the relay from the IGN source. The 12v for the fans comes direct from the battery to the relay then back out to the fans, and those two 12v lines running are fused with 30amp fuses in line at the battery. The two lines that go from the fuse panel IGN source just pass current to the relays. I dont think that draws all that much power. Just think it tells the relay to pass power to the fans from the 12v direct from the battery. Wired it just how it said in the doc's that Dewitt gave me.

So with that additional info do you think I will be ok running this from the IGN source? I hooked up a multimeter to the hot wire from the IGN to the coil and turned it over to see the voltage. When the starter is engaged the line to the coil shows 11.9 v. When the starter is not engaged it shows 12.4 v at the coil. I assume that when she was actually running (not ready to start the motor yet) that it would go back up to the 12v or close to.

So are you guys also saying that I should put a fuse link from the IGN source on the panel to the coil in line? And if so, how about the IGN to the relay for the SPAL fans?

BTW, no Bubba work on this car. Connections are done as they should and never would just tap off a fuse by wrapping wires etc...

 

I don't see the need, as long as there is a fuse in the system you should be okay (and I have a great picture of a recent short on one of my rigs that informs on that qualified answer)




You did it just right. I put an blade-style fuse panel in the engine compartment for always on power, then use it for any taps. I plan on running a second panel for switched power, but at this point, it's unnecessary so it's a long-range plan. The old, glass style fuse panels are a relic and even in their best shape can cause all manner of ills - so not straining that system is a good thing.



That's more than enough, believe it or not a motor will start with 7 volts to the coil (non-hei)

 

Good VERY happy to be working through this with you guys. Everyone has been a great help! I like the idea of a secondary panel for the accessories, etc... Just not sure there is enough room. Will have to size it up. Maybe on the passenger side of the firewall.

 

mine's in the engine compartment

look directly behind and slightly lower than the alternator -

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Thanks for all the help of everyone.. With you guys I got through this. After the holidays going to pony up and become an official member to the site. Thanks again for all the help!