Drop Spindles?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,736
Likes: 37
From: Stockton Ca
Drop Spindles?
Does anyone know anything about spindles ever coming for our C3s?
I'm sure they would be expensive, but it would solve several problems!
VB&P should be all over this. lol
R
I'm sure they would be expensive, but it would solve several problems!
VB&P should be all over this. lol
R
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
Folks usually only lower these an inch or so, with cutting a coil off a spring being free, and lowering springs being bout $40, and lowered spindles being bout $400 or more , if they were to make them. do you see any reason ?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
you ever do anything with your rear spring yet?
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 14,907
Likes: 3,329
From: NYC NY
As stated above cutting a spring on these cars is usually all that's needed to lower the ride height. Dropped spindles have there purpose but they can also add some new issues like tire clearence. The position of the wheel/tire changes which can cause suspension interference on the back side of the wheel. That becomes a concern when trying fit the widest tire/wheel combination possible inside the fender because it limits the wheel backspace.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
How low are you trying to go, and why?
If for improving RR/AX type performance, setting up your front Z height (see illustration) at 1" to 1.25" can be easily accomplished by cutting your coils. Do so from the bottom, properly reseating the top in the frame pocket. Given that our front wheel rates are typically ~1/2 of our front spring rates, best to cut no more than ~1/2 of the coils' loaded height relative to the amount you wish to lower to avoid cutting off too much. I'd rather waste an extra mock up or two than ruin a coil.
If slamming for appearances only, unless the desired height would put your Z at somewhat less than above, you really don't need dropped spindles anyway. That said, front geometry starts going to hell in a hurry if you go very much lower than the above Z height. In the event that the amount you're lowering dictates that you simply must have them, despite issues already mentioned in post #5, I might be able to hook you up.
If for improving RR/AX type performance, setting up your front Z height (see illustration) at 1" to 1.25" can be easily accomplished by cutting your coils. Do so from the bottom, properly reseating the top in the frame pocket. Given that our front wheel rates are typically ~1/2 of our front spring rates, best to cut no more than ~1/2 of the coils' loaded height relative to the amount you wish to lower to avoid cutting off too much. I'd rather waste an extra mock up or two than ruin a coil.
If slamming for appearances only, unless the desired height would put your Z at somewhat less than above, you really don't need dropped spindles anyway. That said, front geometry starts going to hell in a hurry if you go very much lower than the above Z height. In the event that the amount you're lowering dictates that you simply must have them, despite issues already mentioned in post #5, I might be able to hook you up.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Dec 10, 2012 at 04:28 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 318
Likes: 3
From: NP Nebraska
How low are you trying to go, and why?
If for improving RR/AX type performance, setting up your front Z height (see illustration) at 1" to 1.25" can be easily accomplished by cutting your coils. Do so from the bottom, properly reseating the top in the frame pocket. Given that our front wheel rates are typically ~1/2 of our front spring rates, best to cut no more than ~1/2 of the coils' loaded height relative to the amount you wish to lower to avoid cutting off too much. I'd rather waste an extra mock up or two than ruin a coil.
If slamming for appearances only, unless the desired height would put your Z at somewhat less than above, you really don't need dropped spindles anyway. That said, front geometry starts going to hell in a hurry if you go very much lower than the above Z height. In the event that the amount you're lowering dictates that you simply must have them, despite issues already mentioned in post #5, I might be able to hook you up.
If for improving RR/AX type performance, setting up your front Z height (see illustration) at 1" to 1.25" can be easily accomplished by cutting your coils. Do so from the bottom, properly reseating the top in the frame pocket. Given that our front wheel rates are typically ~1/2 of our front spring rates, best to cut no more than ~1/2 of the coils' loaded height relative to the amount you wish to lower to avoid cutting off too much. I'd rather waste an extra mock up or two than ruin a coil.
If slamming for appearances only, unless the desired height would put your Z at somewhat less than above, you really don't need dropped spindles anyway. That said, front geometry starts going to hell in a hurry if you go very much lower than the above Z height. In the event that the amount you're lowering dictates that you simply must have them, despite issues already mentioned in post #5, I might be able to hook you up.
Last edited by myko; Dec 12, 2012 at 10:14 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
From: Marietta Georgia
TRZ Motorsports makes drop spindles and I think Classic Performance Parts does too. I have TRZ on my '74. Really nice parts - not direct bolt ons with stock brakes, wheel bearings, steering arms, etc. Ended up being a time consuming and costly conversion.
I think CPP sells all the parts to make it all fit back together, but costly.
I think CPP sells all the parts to make it all fit back together, but costly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Well, it wasn't me who cut the coils from both ends. My advice to cut them "from the bottom" came from Dick Guldstrand some thirty years ago, and has always worked for me.
As for the front end "floating", weight distribution isn't the primary concern, rather aero lift. First, I'd avoid lowering the rear so much that the frame ends up higher in front (measured fore and aft along the rockers...). In any event, if you're going to do very much high-speed running IMCO you really need a front air dam and rear spoiler.
As for the front end "floating", weight distribution isn't the primary concern, rather aero lift. First, I'd avoid lowering the rear so much that the frame ends up higher in front (measured fore and aft along the rockers...). In any event, if you're going to do very much high-speed running IMCO you really need a front air dam and rear spoiler.
Racer
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 390
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
I'd like to learn more about these TRZ Motorsports 1.5" dropped spindles.
http://trzmotorsports.com/wordpress/...ck-type-brakes
http://trzmotorsports.com/wordpress/...ck-type-brakes
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 318
Likes: 3
From: NP Nebraska
Well, it wasn't me who cut the coils from both ends. My advice to cut them "from the bottom" came from Dick Guldstrand some thirty years ago, and has always worked for me.
As for the front end "floating", weight distribution isn't the primary concern, rather aero lift. First, I'd avoid lowering the rear so much that the frame ends up higher in front (measured fore and aft along the rockers...). In any event, if you're going to do very much high-speed running IMCO you really need a front air dam and rear spoiler.
As for the front end "floating", weight distribution isn't the primary concern, rather aero lift. First, I'd avoid lowering the rear so much that the frame ends up higher in front (measured fore and aft along the rockers...). In any event, if you're going to do very much high-speed running IMCO you really need a front air dam and rear spoiler.
How much drop would you suggest from cutting springs before going with drop spindles?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 318
Likes: 3
From: NP Nebraska
Well, it wasn't me who cut the coils from both ends. My advice to cut them "from the bottom" came from Dick Guldstrand some thirty years ago, and has always worked for me.
As for the front end "floating", weight distribution isn't the primary concern, rather aero lift. First, I'd avoid lowering the rear so much that the frame ends up higher in front (measured fore and aft along the rockers...). In any event, if you're going to do very much high-speed running IMCO you really need a front air dam and rear spoiler.
As for the front end "floating", weight distribution isn't the primary concern, rather aero lift. First, I'd avoid lowering the rear so much that the frame ends up higher in front (measured fore and aft along the rockers...). In any event, if you're going to do very much high-speed running IMCO you really need a front air dam and rear spoiler.
I doubt I am doing a lot of high speed running. I am more concerned about the ride and not having problems with suspension and steering geometry. You always have great answers on these subjects.
I have no interest in "slamming" my car but in the interest of the OPs question how much would you suggest cutting off the springs before going with drop spindles?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Ideally, IMCO one should draw the line at ~1" Z height (at curb weight w/driver). Much lower than that and camber control in bump or dive will start getting increasingly out of hand.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
From: Marietta Georgia
I'd like to learn more about these TRZ Motorsports 1.5" dropped spindles.
http://trzmotorsports.com/wordpress/...ck-type-brakes
http://trzmotorsports.com/wordpress/...ck-type-brakes
Here is a picture of what mine looked like with 1 coil cut off the stock spring:
[IMG]
[/IMG]And what it looks like with the drop spindles (front wheel are "rollers" not what I drive around with):
[IMG]
[/IMG]