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donnie1956, How about posting the name and contact for that engine builder you are considering. I need a engine for my 73 and that is close enough for me to go and get it.
the smart money is with 'NEW' GM performance engines....any local dealership can furnish them....no guess work involved....I have never purchased a bad one and those I have used is the highest HP engines they sell...Price is up to the purchaser and how much HP you want....merely a subjective choice and I love HP
I know this has been beat to death but never found the answer using the search.
Decided to go with a 383 Stroker crate engine for my 78. I want an engine that produces good torque, I am mating up with a 2004R and 2800 RPM stall convertor. Want to run on pump gas.
Got a few good quotes less than $3K delivered to my door and need to keep no higher than that.
Whats the difference between a short block and a long block? Most quotes are around 400 HP.
I have been thinking of replacing the TH350 with another transmission. Is the 2004R a simple bolt on, or is there more to it? Same car 1978 auto with the stock L48. Also looking at a ZZ4 GM Crate.
I have been thinking of replacing the TH350 with another transmission. Is the 2004R a simple bolt on, or is there more to it? Same car 1978 auto with the stock L48. Also looking at a ZZ4 GM Crate.
The transmission swap was not that hard, did it on jack stands. No modifications to the crossmember. Had to cut my exhaust after the crossmember. Only additional parts needed I got from Shiftworks.
the smart money is with 'NEW' GM performance engines....any local dealership can furnish them....no guess work involved....I have never purchased a bad one and those I have used is the highest HP engines they sell...Price is up to the purchaser and how much HP you want....merely a subjective choice and I love HP
Smart money when out the window when I bought a 35 year old vette.
My bet is that the S.I. heads are ProComp. I know a lot of folks that won't mess with an Eagle crank, journals tend to be out of round and mis-sized. Scat is a different story, better sizing, etc., for close to the same price.
Engine cost isn't always about the $ spent or saved, it's not always about "bang for the buck". Good quality parts will cost more but usually pay in the long run with increased longevity and sometimes better power.
Hey Donnie I saw that you have an interest in BluePrint Engines on your forum post, please let me know if you have any specific questions and I will be glad to help. You can email me back here on the forum or contact me directly at andrew@blueprintengines.com
BRAND NEW (not rebuilt) iron Vortec Crate under $3K
All genuine GM, Brand New not rebuilt Iron Vortec Roller Cam-lifter 350 delivered about $2100 ... DIY upgrade to about 400fwhp/tq for about $900 more ... don't simply think same ol', same ol' ... merry CHRISTmas y'all
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by donnie1956
I have a local builder that will build a 383 400 HP for $2700 aluminum heads. 12 month 12K warranty. Whats wrong with this? He will even run in the engine on a stand while I watch. I don't see how he is making much money but he gave me a list of the parts and they look OK. I can't buy the parts and rebuild myself for that kind of money.
383 425hp 440tq
G.M. block, hot tanked, magnafluxed, bored, honed, decked, line honed, lifter bores trued
eagle 3.75 stroke crankshaft, rotating assembly balanced to within .5 gram
speedpro hyperutectic flat top pistons with durashield coated skirts
gm rods reconditioned, shot blasted, arp bolts installed
hastings moly rings
clevite trimetal bearings
melling hv oil pump, pickup, and hardend drive
melling dual row roller timing set
melling hyd cam and lifters, cam specs .488int .509ex lift 234 dur
melling hardend pushrods
S.I. aluminum cylinder heads, 64cc chambers, 195cc int runners, 2.02 int 1.6 ex stainless valves, screw in rocker studs, guide plates, dual springs, steel retainers and locks
roller tip rockers
new headbolts
felpro gaskets
new oil pan, timing cover, valve covers
balancer and flexplate
aluminum performer dual plane intake
ran to break in cam and ensure there are no leaks
Go ahead and buy an $3000 engine and report back how it is running 1 year from now. BTW where in China are S.I. heads made ? can never seem to find out where these type of heads are made. Matter of fact where are Eagle parts made? I know where AFR heads are made and know their chief head designer Tony Mamo.
As for Eagle their cranks are great if you can find one that is straight and doesn't break in half they are great cranks. You said it yourself, where and how is he making any money ? it takes a long time to put together a motor properly maybe he works for $5/hr but I am telling you to go for it and post the results. The post might sound mean but it is intended to try and make a point, a cheap engine will not last and you are going to get all p*zzed off at me, but hopefully ~40 years of building and racing small blocks carries some weight but I know you won't listen. You want a cheap motor that is going to cause you no end of problems down the road that's why I say go for it and find out for yourself.
With an auto trans., IMHO, the base ZZ4 I think is the best deal out there. Rated at 405 lbs of torque at a little over 3K rpm it'll cost about $4100 with currently, free shipping deals. The ZZ4 with the "fast burn heads" will cost around another grand, give you 30 more HP (at a higher rpm) but you'll loose 30 lbs of torque. If you are replacing another small block, you can switch the fuel pump, carb, exhaust manifold.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by Ironcross
the smart money is with 'NEW' GM performance engines....any local dealership can furnish them....no guess work involved....I have never purchased a bad one and those I have used is the highest HP engines they sell...Price is up to the purchaser and how much HP you want....merely a subjective choice and I love HP
buy the GM brand new base engine 1499 free ship (jegs)
w/2800 stall it will fry the tires. ok, not much hp, but fun.
then in a year or 2, swap in AFR heads and a mild cam and it will have 400hp. w/all NEW parts, NO CHINA PARTS.
I have a 383 from Blueprint It runs great. Blue gives you a 30 month 30,000 mile waranty. Mine is a 1979 street vette. I am very pleasrd with Blueprints Quality JAY
Hey Donnie I saw that you have an interest in BluePrint Engines on your forum post, please let me know if you have any specific questions and I will be glad to help. You can email me back here on the forum or contact me directly at andrew@blueprintengines.com
Any specs or component lists on these and prices. Are they internally balanced? I know there was a post on here 5 years ago or so that was a horror story. This is the only reference I have. MsVetteMan. I found update threads but the original thread documenting the failure and subsequent ongoing 50 + page fiasco mysteriously disappered.
the smart money is with 'NEW' GM performance engines....any local dealership can furnish them....no guess work involved....I have never purchased a bad one and those I have used is the highest HP engines they sell...Price is up to the purchaser and how much HP you want....merely a subjective choice and I love HP
the Year One posted above looks interesting as well. Would like to know more about their internals and where hey are sourced from.
the Year One posted above looks interesting as well. Would like to know more about their internals and where hey are sourced from.
Says factory cast crank, powdered metal rods, (stock, reconditioned)hyper pistons (cheapest available). It is an internal/external balance (cheapest option), Also 4.04 bore. Very few 350 GM blocks can safely go .040 over.
People, you have to remember you get what you pay for, there is no free lunch. Fast, durable, cheap. pick two. If I was looking for a moderate performance engine cheap I would probably go with a GM crate as well but do not fool yourselves that it is a high performance engine and it will cost you more per HP than a cheap crate. Will only be warranteed if installed by GM or an approved mechanic.
For me I am likely to pick up a new block and wrap the original Lt-1 Zr-1 block. All the internals are very high quality so will reuse what I can, go with a new roller setup. I built this engine in '01, love it but after 30k it needs some work. If I didn't know what was in my engine I'd likely go for a GM and let my budget decide which one.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by 63mako
Any specs or component lists on these and prices. Are they internally balanced? I know there was a post on here 5 years ago or so that was a horror story. This is the only reference I have. MsVetteMan. I found update threads but the original thread documenting the failure and subsequent ongoing 50 + page fiasco mysteriously disappered.
No vendor bashing intended but members deserve all info even from "supporting vendors"
Just Google "complaints (company name, they usually change names after a dozen or so of their engines grenade I believe Blue Print used to be Marshall) " and you will get the low down on these crate engine companies.