Drew

Hello.......I am finally getting around to working on the car. I have to remove my original starter for a rebuild. I am pretty sure there are only 2 - 9/16 bolts holding it on. I got the bottom one off no problem. My problem is the Top one. It seems to be in a very tight area. It looks like there isn't even enough room for it to come out....I cannot get my long handle ratchet on it because of very limited space....I'm hoping I am trying to remove the right bolt LOL! I have wrenched quite a bit on this car, but this is my first time removing the starter.....Can anybody help me out with maybe a pic of where the Top mounting bolt is located to make sure I have the right one? They both attatch into the bellhousing, right? Thanks, I feel kinda dumb posting this! LOL......Thank You for any help on this....

drwet

There are essentially three bolts holding the starter on and no, they don't go into the bellhousing. The two main bolts go up from the bottom into the block. They may be staggered or straight across. There is usually also a brace at the rear of the starter that supports it. This brace is bolted to the starter and to the block.

TimAT

This picture, you can see the 2 bolts (offset style). What you can't see is the front brace.



No idea why the same picture posted 2 times.

larrywalk

Actually, the two bolts going vertically into the block are special starter bolts (3/8" NC); 9/16" is the distance across the flats of the hex head and is not the size of the bolt. Don't try to use common 3/8" bolts as they don't have the register shoulders which locate the starter bolts into the 3/8" counter bored holes in the block. Note that these counter bores are about 5/16" deep before the threads start.

In the above pictures, to forestall any confusion, DON'T attach the large black cable to the BATT post of the solenoid. Black color is usually a grounded cable (or wire). As such, it must go to a good engine ground such as the starter bolts, bell housing bolts, or a short 3/8 NC bolt screwed into the back of the head.

'75

In the pic above the large black cable is Battery positive, do not ground it!! The battery may blow up in your face when you hook the cables back up.

larrywalk

In any event, always trace the cables to prevent any faulty connection.
With my cars, I get some large red or pink shrink wrap at the local FLAPS and shrink it on the positive cable to avoid any possible mistake.

KapsSA

That pic adds confusion! That cable is most likely the pos cable.
From the factory BOTH battery cables are black, just the connectors at the battery are color coded.

Doug1

yeah, on mine, a cable isn't even connected there. the positive on mine is connected where the hose is hiding the actual spot on solenoid

Doug1

Tim, is that pic off your car? 69? the 78 is definitely different, from the pic, that seems really weird for that to be a positive cable, sure looks grounded? but what do I know?lol

my 76 ray

I'm sure that cable is just disconnected and dangling there. The other picture that didn't show up probably shows the post on the solenoid as the place where it should be connected.

SuperBuickGuy

this is a picture of the 3rd brace... it's hidden

7T1vette

#1. Disconnect the battery. (sounds obvious, but you'd be amazed at the folks who don't )

On the '71 cars, there is a small (16 or 14 awg) ground wire with a connector that fits under one of the two [lower] starter mounting bolts. That large ground wire (OMG...I hope that's not the battery positive wire ) should be connected to the front starter bracket that is bolted to the block. That provides the starter and engine block with 'primary' ground connection. The other end of that ground wire should be bolted to the frame near the right side motor mount.

The lower end of that front bracket is what holds up the front end of the starter. Just remove that nut and star-washer and pull that bracket forward to release the stud on the starter housing. Then, remove those two lower bolts and the starter is free. (After you remove the solenoid wiring, of course.)

Mark ALL wires with tape labels BEFORE you remove them. That way, you can put them back on the right connector/lug.

hunt4cleanair

Drew

Here's a pic of the starter (1978) after my engine compartment resto from last year. Note the two starter bolts, brace on the right side and the ground cable. The ground cable connects to the frame. You'll also see another black cable of the same size that routes to the battery...these are the two you would not want to get mixed up!

Doug1

interesting, I don't have that brace. just the 2 bolts that go vertical....

TimAT

The picture I posted is marked CORRECTLY for the large cable. It goes to the solenoid battery +. It is just hanging in that picture. I agree, it does look like it's grounded. Sorry for any confusion. The battery + cable on my 69 runs past the bellhousing and lays along the top of the starter.

No idea where that picture came from- I think it might be an old "How do I hook up my starter?" post from here.

SuperBuickGuy

most, stock cars don't absolutely need them - but if you do, generally you find out with a broken nose cone... it's one of those "cheap insurance" things.

Drew

Thanks alot you guys. Lots of Great info.
Hunt4cleanair your pics are Great!
My starter has never been out of the car in the almost 24 years I have owned it, and I don't think it was even before that.
Heading out to the garage now.....Thanks again everyone...

7T1vette

SuperBuickGuy...

I would disagree with your assessment of the front starter brace. Not only does that brace support all the 'unhung' mass of the starter under rough road conditions, but it also serves as the direct feed for electrical grounding to the starter [frame/2 awg ground wire/starter brace/starter motor]. So, it prevents the starter from breaking off at the rear housing AND it is a much better electrical connection than via the frame/bellhousing/two bolts/rear starter housing/starter motor.

SuperBuickGuy

English really is my worst language, as my point obviously didn't make it across the internet. There are lots of starters that are on cars without the front brace - and they work - HOWEVER, I am NOT recommending leaving it off, ever.

thus, you are correct, and correct in pointing out the missing bits of my prior post, thank you.

7T1vette

No problem. Just didn't want to have folks thinking that leaving the brace off was a "good" thing.