Valve Adjustment!!!
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Are you going to educate us then how various methods to adjust valves that have been presented here are strictly for either hydraulic or solid lifters?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
They are hydraulic. Instead of being sarcastic maybe we should have sent a pm. Just pulled a 48 hour shift at work and slept for awhile before checking the forum.
Second note. What I was asking originally was do I need to retighten the valves after rotating motor a few times. The rockers seem to be slightly looser than when I originally tightened?
Second note. What I was asking originally was do I need to retighten the valves after rotating motor a few times. The rockers seem to be slightly looser than when I originally tightened?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
They are hydraulic. Instead of being sarcastic maybe we should have sent a pm. Just pulled a 48 hour shift at work and slept for awhile before checking the forum.
Second note. What I was asking originally was do I need to retighten the valves after rotating motor a few times. The rockers seem to be slightly looser than when I originally tightened?
Second note. What I was asking originally was do I need to retighten the valves after rotating motor a few times. The rockers seem to be slightly looser than when I originally tightened?
Since some people want to know how to set "solids", rotate the engine until the cam is at base circle for the cylinder you're working on, and adjust accordingly. Since I haven't adjusted a solid cam since the early 70s, I may not be totally accurate, but I seem to recall the lash was 0.028" on the intakes, and 0.032 on the exhausts....
Better yet, consult a shop manual for the specifics, which escape me for the moment, but if you have both #1 and #6 clylinders on TDC, you can adjust half the valves, and rotate the engine one turn clockwise (as facing the engine) and adjust the other half....
Try posts 7 and 8 for openers....
Last edited by leadfoot4; Jan 12, 2013 at 03:43 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
Contrary to what MANY people suggest, when I adjust hydraulic lifters, I do a rough adjustment, then I do it with the engine up to temperature, and running. Back the adjusting off slowly until you can hear the lifter "click" then tighten down the adjusting nut 3/4-1 full turn.
Since some people want to know how to set "solids", rotate the engine until the cam is at base circle for the cylinder you're working on, and adjust accordingly. Since I haven't adjusted a solid cam since the early 70s, I may not be totally accurate, but I seem to recall the lash was 0.028" on the intakes, and 0.032 on the exhausts....
Better yet, consult a shop manual for the specifics, which escape me for the moment, but if you have both #1 and #6 clylinders on TDC, you can adjust half the valves, and rotate the engine one turn clockwise (as facing the engine) and adjust the other half....
Try posts 7 and 8 for openers....
Since some people want to know how to set "solids", rotate the engine until the cam is at base circle for the cylinder you're working on, and adjust accordingly. Since I haven't adjusted a solid cam since the early 70s, I may not be totally accurate, but I seem to recall the lash was 0.028" on the intakes, and 0.032 on the exhausts....
Better yet, consult a shop manual for the specifics, which escape me for the moment, but if you have both #1 and #6 clylinders on TDC, you can adjust half the valves, and rotate the engine one turn clockwise (as facing the engine) and adjust the other half....
Try posts 7 and 8 for openers....
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,367
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
Solid lifters need "lash" (mechanical clearance to allow for heat expansion in the valve train), while hydraulics need "pre-load", for essentially the same reason, but in a different manner. These adjustments are completely different, and unless you initially specify what type of lifter you're dealing with, the discussion loses meaning, and/or can send the OP off in an incorrect direction.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
The "gross errors" you seem to be referring to, started right at the beginning. The OP didn't specify whether he had solid lifters or hydraulics, and while trying to be truly helpful, people immediately started offering methods to make adjustments.
Solid lifters need "lash" (mechanical clearance to allow for heat expansion in the valve train), while hydraulics need "pre-load", for essentially the same reason, but in a different manner. These adjustments are completely different, and unless you initially specify what type of lifter you're dealing with, the discussion loses meaning, and/or can send the OP off in an incorrect direction.
Solid lifters need "lash" (mechanical clearance to allow for heat expansion in the valve train), while hydraulics need "pre-load", for essentially the same reason, but in a different manner. These adjustments are completely different, and unless you initially specify what type of lifter you're dealing with, the discussion loses meaning, and/or can send the OP off in an incorrect direction.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
Likes: 6,390
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
lars
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Thank you Lars for the response. Will fire it up today and see how she runs.
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