check the heat riser valve to be sure its functioning on the right exhaust,
No choke
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 396
Likes: 13
From: New Bern NC
No choke
Been off site a few months building my shop for the vette to live in. Saturday night I rebuilt the quadrajet to fix a fuel leak that turned out to a float set too high causing fuel to leak out the sahft ends. I fixed that with a new float set to 11/32's below the top edge of the bowl. She runs great once warm and I have zero bog when jumping on her but when cold the choke plate wont stay closed or even close to closed. I get a good 1/2 inch opening. Any sugesstions? I didnt mess with anything near the choke (only took the top plate off the body to get to the float).
thanks
thanks
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 396
Likes: 13
From: New Bern NC
I have the original shop manual for the 1975 vette and it has the float spec as 11/32 so I measured from the bowls top edge down 11/32 and made the top of the float touch it. It took alot of trial and error but she idles smoother, nice steady power increase with rpm, no bog, no bounc idle.
Your weather is more consistant than mine. We get down in the 30's here and I admit that mine is a garage queen but I do try and drive her a few miles every month to keep the calipers moving and everything else functional so I need the choke. My "problem" is she only has 6,748 documented original miles and has never seen the rain so I dont take her out unless its sunny and the ground is dry. I have both sets of original keys and the original hand written order form for her from the dealer to the factory. I am friends with the first two owners as I am the third. The original owner offered to sell me his 58 fully restored (which is why he sold the 75) but I cant afford the 58. LOL
Your weather is more consistant than mine. We get down in the 30's here and I admit that mine is a garage queen but I do try and drive her a few miles every month to keep the calipers moving and everything else functional so I need the choke. My "problem" is she only has 6,748 documented original miles and has never seen the rain so I dont take her out unless its sunny and the ground is dry. I have both sets of original keys and the original hand written order form for her from the dealer to the factory. I am friends with the first two owners as I am the third. The original owner offered to sell me his 58 fully restored (which is why he sold the 75) but I cant afford the 58. LOL
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
thanks! going to bed now, you can adjust the choke on the side by loosening the 3 screws that secure that black cover. when its cold, adjust just enough so that the flap is pretty much closed, I don't think you want it snug though, then as it warms up it will fully open.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
That choke mechanism can be a bit tricky to assemble. I'm betting that the choke plate rod that is connected to the little metal link (with which the choke shaft engages, just inside the carb) is not engaged or the link was not positioned properly. Remove the air cleaner and see if the choke flap will move (open and closed) freely without resistance. If it does, that rod and link are not engaged with the choke and are likely not assembled at all.
If you find this is the problem and want instructions on how to connect all that 'stuff' without disassembling the carb again, send me a PM.
If you find this is the problem and want instructions on how to connect all that 'stuff' without disassembling the carb again, send me a PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 396
Likes: 13
From: New Bern NC
I will give it a try but I didnt mess with it at all... I left it fully intake during the rebuild....its my second rebuild in 4 months. (original was to replace all seals, etc). This time I did the float and the valve and seat along with the top gasket only.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
How could you possibly "rebuild" the carb, if you didn't remove the choke mechanism and the choke flap & linkage?
{It is possible to disconnect the choke rod at the choke flap/plate, and leave the rod and link connected inside the carb. But, you would not be able to do any work on the carb [or change its orientation] in that state without the link falling off the rod internally, IMO.}
{It is possible to disconnect the choke rod at the choke flap/plate, and leave the rod and link connected inside the carb. But, you would not be able to do any work on the carb [or change its orientation] in that state without the link falling off the rod internally, IMO.}
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jan 14, 2013 at 09:41 PM.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 396
Likes: 13
From: New Bern NC
I did a gasket rebuild 4 months ago along with complete cleaning...but I didnt mess with the float. So after having cold start issues, terrible gas mileage, and what I thought was a fuel leak pooling up on the passanger side of the manifold I decided to replace the float this weekend thinking I had accidentally moved her causing too much fuel to sit in the bowl and leak out. So I didnt really rebuild her this weekend, just replaced the float and the upper gasket.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
Your first post says you have a quadrajet.
I believe what 7T1 is saying (correctly I might add), is that you can't remove the air horn, to even get to the float, without disconnecting the choke rod. And if this linkage is not connected correctly, your choke flap will move freely, and not respond to the choke pulloff.
The choke rod goes from the choke flap on the air horn, thru the air horn, and into the float bowl. There is a small metal piece of linkage, it's flat with 2 holes, that connects the rod, to the choke pulloff.
Here are some pictures.
I believe what 7T1 is saying (correctly I might add), is that you can't remove the air horn, to even get to the float, without disconnecting the choke rod. And if this linkage is not connected correctly, your choke flap will move freely, and not respond to the choke pulloff.
The choke rod goes from the choke flap on the air horn, thru the air horn, and into the float bowl. There is a small metal piece of linkage, it's flat with 2 holes, that connects the rod, to the choke pulloff.
Here are some pictures.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,417
Likes: 1,554
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Disconnecting and reconnecting the choke rod (12) to the intermediate choke lever (49) was very difficult for me.
The best way for me was to leave 45 46 47 & 48 attached to the carb.
Give 12 a 90* twist and it will come loose and then you can take the top of the carb off.
The reassemble put the top back on and give the choke rod a 90* twist the other way and it's hooked up again.
Still not easy to catch the hole in 49 but it works.
The best way for me was to leave 45 46 47 & 48 attached to the carb.
Give 12 a 90* twist and it will come loose and then you can take the top of the carb off.
The reassemble put the top back on and give the choke rod a 90* twist the other way and it's hooked up again.
Still not easy to catch the hole in 49 but it works.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 396
Likes: 13
From: New Bern NC
I did remove that valve...but mine looks very different. My rod is bent different and I dont have the lever arm with the flat spots. I will double check that its connected correctly. Sorry I kept thinking he was asking if I had removed the metal spring coil with the lean/rich markings (part 52-56 in your pict) which has the idle arms and the lever to kick the lock off the secondary lock arm free.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,370
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Lars
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Some Q-Jet's can have the air horn removed in the manner described. Some cannot. In any event, that choke rod/link assembly must be correct [when assembled] or the choke will not function.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 396
Likes: 13
From: New Bern NC
I got a chance to work on her today...I had reconnected the pushrod to the choke plate wrong, I had turned the connector that has the flat spots turned over so the push rod was rubbing on the throttle opening body. Also noticed that it seems the thermocoil (or what ever the real name is) seems to have come disconnected but at that point it was too hot to mess with. I still dont see the push rod set up you so pictued above. I will take pictures tomorrow and post them as I have to make soccer teams for 400 kids under the age of 10 today.