Hi , Im new to corvettes , so I bought a 1980 Corvette with the l48 engine, what is it that needs to be done to get to 400 rwhp? im looking to get some carburator butterfly scoop, so any advise is welcome

Im limited with pump gas, I want the biggest cam for the meanist sound ever and build on that , after i get nitrous I plan on pushing it with a 200 shot nitrous , Its a street warrior, it would cee a few drag events per year and also I use it for DD

 

Crate engine

 

When you say pump gas... 91-92 octane premium is what I am assuming. To get 400hp at the rear wheels you need to first refresh the drivetrain rearward of the engine. The first time you put that much hp/tq through an original drivetrain you WILL break something.

What is the age/condition of the drive train from engine to rear tires?

Also, what are the specs on your engine? Warmed over? Bone stock? Stock trans and rear gears?

On the 1980 Dana 44, I've heard it is rated to be reliable behind engines producing 450hp. If you are going to run a 450hp engine, rebuild/blueprint the rear differential and add some gears. The 3.07's will not do justice to a 450+hp engine. I upgraded to 3.54's when I added my 700R4. Rebuilt and added all-new internals/blueprinted the rear differential by reputable shop.

I would build the recipe around your 200hp shot of nitrous. The cam will be a part of that recipe. Most engines, freshly and built for it, can stand a 200hp shot of nitrous. That would make your car capable of road warrior, 1/8-1/4 miler and DD. You could keep the nitrous for the performance and run in 'base trim' as DD.

Research successful nitrous engine/driveline builds.

 

Its still all stock,and what do I need to do with everything else before adding the power? Also what crate would you recommend?

 

to start, rebuild/blueprint:
Engine (for nitrous shots)
Transmission (add higher stall converter also)
Driveshaft
Rear differential (rebuild/blueprint and add gearing)
half-shafts (I would go with carbon fiber shaft material for that HP potential... see Van Steel)
rear trailing arm assemblies

 

Shafiroff racing, cnc-motorsports or smeddling performance all sell crate engines that would suit your needs. Like others have said every thing behind the engine will need work to accomdate 400 rwhp, brakes included. Good luck on your poject.

 

Pace Performance would be a good place for an engine also. Something like a ZZ383 would be perfect for you

 

With that, you don't need NOS. More balanced pkg. But, still need to refresh trans and rearward components to live with that power on tap.

 

A carburator scoop does NOTHING to increase engine power. And, IMO, it detracts from the looks of that car. But, it's yours to do with whatever you want.

If you want to thrown money at it to make it "go faster", your most effective and probably most economical approach is to buy a 400rwhp crate engine and drop it in.

Of course, you will then have to put on headers and a true dual exhaust system to allow that engine to operate as intended; and you will have to beef up the transmission and differential to handle all that added torque.

Go do your "thing"....

 

Unless pace performance has a diiferent zz383, its not going to make 400 rear wheel horse.

 

Although, he could do with a 50-75hp shot of nitrous to make his performance numbers. that way, his engine will live longer. 200hp shot would be shorten engine life... even race-only. Good 450hp gross engine with 50-70hp shot would be a better combo... especially since balance of driveline must be refreshed regardless.

What's a 'carb butterfly scoop'? Fuggetaboutit. You may need to raise the hood with that pace performance 383 (or lower your air cleaner... aftermarket air cleaner). Focus on sound platform for performance AND reliability.

If you don't care about lunching the engine, trans and rear diff, drop the 200hp shot of nitrous on it with no other mods. But you WILL break something.

Forgot to ask... What is your BUDGET ($$$)? It all comes to that regardless of goals.

 

I agree with this completely. If you put a bird catcher on with out a blower and you get called bubba.

 

Ive never ran nitrous, cant say i wont run it some day, but being as how ive never ran it, i couldnt comment either way. If 400 rwhp was the total desired hp with NO2 then id say you were right.

 

Personally, I prefer a less lofty HP/TQ goal (300rwhp), no nitrous, have fun at the races (or just smoke the tires on-demand) and enjoy DD duties... wait, that's what I have! Whole combo will live longer with less complication (nitrous).

 

6.0 LS2 from a GTO. But what you're asking is how to get 400 to the wheels, you need 30% more power than an LS motor to get there. So your choices are fairly straightfoward - boost, or NOx. You could probably spray it, and the LS motor is resilient enough to handle it... but nothing else in your drivetrain is capable. If you want an honest 400 at the wheels before chemicals -

a 400 hp motor is 600+ at the crank. That's pretty easy to get with a BBC, something in the 496 to 505 ran for cubic inches. All the best parts inside, figure a Shafiroff or similar motor - shouldn't cost you more than $13,650. Add another 5k for a transmission, 5k for a rear end, 2k for rebuilding the entire suspension - then you can spend your money on tires and wheels, figure an easy 3k. Once that's done, you'll need to rewire - and after spending that kind of change underneath, you want a new interior (10k), and a decent paint job (15k)....

Oh, I forgot incidentals like exhaust, fuel systems, driveshafts, wiring harnesses, and such stuff - 7500 should cover that as well unless you go with fancy stuff.

Of course, that's presuming your frame isn't tweaked, the car hasn't been wrecked and needs extra attention to make it right
pretty cheap, eh?

oh and a scoop should set you back $125 off ebay, can't forget the scoop.... that'd be just wrong



and let me add this - Though this sound sarcastic, it's really not - those really are the costs of anything north of 400hp at the crank.

 

OK, That is where Im at. Got a lot of time and well over $25,000.
Forged 383, 10.4 to 1 AFR heads Large base Tripower 527 HP W/ 150 HP Nitrous $11,500
Viper/Chevy T56 trans. modified $3600
Scattershield,clutch, flywheel $1200
Tom's 12 bolt W inner, outer flanged spindles, 3 1/2" HD halfshafts, Offset trailing arm rebuild $9000
That don't count suspension, brakes, tires wheels, frame stiffening and welding and $10,000 or so in incidentals

 

How much money is in the budget for your build?

 

you may have to wave smelling salts under him to get an answer to that question.

 

Maybe...$30 until Friday, when he gets paid.

 

Well 30 wont do. But shp block 4.125" bore, billet mains, lunati 3.875" crank, 6" h beams, mahle coated pistons 11 to 1 pistons. Internaly ballanced, Afr 220 / 76cc heads. Custom com, 242/252 @ .050" .600ish lift solid roller achievable with 1.6 roller rockers. Super victor intake. 1050 pro-systems dominator. 35 to4000 rpm stall.12 to 15 grand. Or the lsa crate engine.