When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking at the aftermarket heads, many of them are advertised as having "Raised Exhaust Ports" with anywhere from .300 to .600 above stock. Will normal headers fit past the steering box and everything else with the port and header almost 3/8 higher than stock? How about the power steering pump rear bracket? Probably can slot the bolt hole to fit the 3/8, but for 5/8 it's going to take some real work.
Anyone have any input?
FWIW, I've got Hooker Sidemounts. I think there's enough between the primary tubes and the frame on the sides, but not sure.
If you're not needing absolute max power you get can fairly close to that without dealing with raised ports. The Brodix Race Rites have great flow without raised ports. I don't have them because I needed small chamber heads- Edelbrock was my only aluminum choice at the time, and probably still is. If not for that I'd have the Brodix RRs. http://www.brodix.com/heads/bbheads.php
If you're not needing absolute max power you get can fairly close to that without dealing with raised ports. The Brodix Race Rites have great flow without raised ports. I don't have them because I needed small chamber heads- Edelbrock was my only aluminum choice at the time, and probably still is. If not for that I'd have the Brodix RRs. http://www.brodix.com/heads/bbheads.php
BB RR's allowed an easy bolt-in on my '68 BB manual. Yes power steering bracket was OK - I have used both Hedman 1 7/8"s and Super Comp 2 1/8" and they are both OK - Hedman were close to chassic rail - Hookers hang low. Hookers have a thicker header flange and needed notching with a grinder to clear lower head bolts - not a big deal. Budget on using new engine mounts, these will help put engine in correct position. These are some on this forum who have used raised port heads and even 'tall' blocks with non modded headers.
Tim, I am running the AFR's with a .375 raised exhaust port on my 502 and I had to modify 5 tubes of my Hooker Sidemounts to work. The main trouble is on the driver's side. I am still not happy with the alignment so I would say be prepared for some modification to your headers. It seems as if the main problem is not the "up" but the "out" caused by raising the port. I am thinking of getting a custom set made or the Stahl's made for the raised port heads when money permits.
I am installing the Brodix RR rectangular port heads on my L-71 as we speak. I am using original tripower intake and stock manifolds and didn't want to hassle with the raised ports either.
During me research, I discovered that the RR's do not flow as good on the exhaust as some of the competition. I addressed this by having Chris Straub grind me a hyd. roller with increased exhaust duration. He suggests about 14 degrees more on the exhaust than intake to rectify this issue.
I'm guessing that you didn't put that motor together strictly for the street. What's your Chevelle run in the 1/4 mile?
Les,
I haven't had this combo to the track yet. Currently I just cruise around on the street. I'm hoping to get it to the drag strip this summer. I know with a manual transmission it will be difficult to get the full potential out of this setup, but I would like to see high 10's and maybe with some practice and a little luck mid 10's would be nice.
I've got the GM 1077 C-Port heads- the Edelbrocks flow about the same. Bottom line is there are several different heads out there and I'm looking. I really like the AFR's and the Dart Pro 1 series for flow numbers, but the raised ports are putting me off them.
I'm looking at pickling the LS-7 and building something that will make the same or more power- on pump gas. The only thing that's set in stone is it WILL be a big block.
I've got Brodix 3xtra ovals now and used to run Brodix 2Xtra's. Both have exhaust ports raised .600". I found the 2-1/8" Hookers actually fit better by getting them closer to floorboards and raising them up. I did have to dimple the #3 tube by the stock steering box. When I added the Borgeson box I was able to remove the dimple and it all fit fine.
I cut off the PS bracket leg that comes around side of head and just use the bolts on the front. No issues even at 8000+ rpm.
Jim are you running the sidemounts or undercar headers? When I get home I can look and see how much space I have between the frame and the tubes, I suspect there will be at least 3/4 of an inch. THe #3 tube on the ones I have came with a dimple and past that everything clears fine- it's just that I don't need the hassle of spending the bucks for the heads and then finding out the raised ports make the headers a hassle, which makes the p/s a hassle- you know the drill,,
Mine are undercar. I found the Hookers fit a LOT better on the right side than others because they route tubes away from idler arm whereas others just cook it.
There's quite a few folks using the AFR's with the .375" or so raised ports with no issues.
But as mentioned..the Brodix RR's are some great heads and can make killer power.The right cam can make it all work well.
The 555" I built for Doug Plette's "Bruiser" uses Dart 335's and sidemount headers. I don't remember any real issues that he mentioned...but he did install a Steeroids setup..so probably doesn't help much.
I've got the GM 1077 C-Port heads- the Edelbrocks flow about the same. Bottom line is there are several different heads out there and I'm looking. I really like the AFR's and the Dart Pro 1 series for flow numbers, but the raised ports are putting me off them.
I'm looking at pickling the LS-7 and building something that will make the same or more power- on pump gas. The only thing that's set in stone is it WILL be a big block.
Just send your GM perf (edelbrock) heads to a GOOD head porter and spend $1500 on the full works...then you can keep your current exhaust setup and good fitment, yet support 700hp.
The Brodix RR heads are also good but you may not see THAT much difference over your current GM perf aluminum heads..maybe 30hp or so...probably not worth the expense.
If I were gonna buy some new heads, I'd do the AFR 300 ovals...but have to fight the raised ports..
I'm in the beginning stages of an engine upgrade on my blue 69 roadster and following this post closely. My experience with Hooker side pipe headers on a 69 is that the clearance issue is not so much the frame, but up right behind the wheel well. The collector starts to interfere with the fiber glass body and rocker panel trim. On my 70 (aka Project Ramjet) I had to actually cut off some of the lower fiberglass panel behind the rocker panel trim as well as cutting a significant portion of the trim. That was back when I had hookers on it. On the 69, for some reason, I was able to get by with only trimming a very small sliver off the bottom of the rocker panel trim piece. I suspect going with the raised heads on the "Blue Angle" 69 upgrade will require even more cutting? NOT what I want to get into for the performance difference. Jury is still out but I'm looking at the Eldebrock Victor series aluminum heads?????? What do you guys think?