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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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Default Body mount replacement

I'm in the process of stripping and painting my 73.My bodyman(my son) said the body mounts need replaced.I don't want do a body off because I want to drive it this summer.
How do I replace them without doing a body off? What is the procedure to raise the body to change them ? Thanks ,Charlie.
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 11:04 PM
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This is NOT something you want to do unless they are rotted-out. Can you post some photos of the mounts and get some opinions on the "need" to replace them?
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 11:09 PM
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I should of said the cushions need replaced not the mounts.
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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ALL 40 year-old cushions will be cracked and NASTY looking. But, that doesn't mean that they're not still "on the job". Need photos to be of any real help.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:06 AM
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To answer your original question, yes the body mounts can be replaced without removing the whole body. You loosen one side, the unbolt and raise the other side enough to get the new mounts in. I'll see if I can find the link to a write up.

Here you go:

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=119140

Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; Jan 29, 2013 at 12:46 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
To answer your original question, yes the body mounts can be replaced without removing the whole body. You loosen one side, the unbolt and raise the other side enough to get the new mounts in. I'll see if I can find the link to a write up.
Agreed.

The job can be done, without lifting the body completely off the frame.

The very front mounts and the very rear, (1 and 4)will actualy be pretty easy, as they are visible.

Positions 2 and 4 are a little tougher, but it isnt an extremely difficult job, especially if the bolts come right out..

I say go for it...
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 2ndGen
Agreed.

The job can be done, without lifting the body completely off the frame.

The very front mounts and the very rear, (1 and 4)will actualy be pretty easy, as they are visible.

Positions 2 and 4 are a little tougher, but it isnt an extremely difficult job, especially if the bolts come right out..

I say go for it...

On the flip side, you may end up grinding, cutting, soaking, cutting, and everything else for days trying to get the bolts out

Good luck!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 2ndGen
...The very front mounts and the very rear, (1 and 4)will actualy be pretty easy...
They may have been easy for you, but the #4 mounts on each side give a lot of people a lot of trouble.

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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 08:52 AM
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just did this last week. just use a lot of PB Blaster and take a couple days for it to soak in. we got all 8 out with very little trouble. The 2 in the rear were the worst...
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 01:15 PM
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Currently in this process but I was lucky in that 3 of the 8 were already removed (#1's and one #2)... or maybe not so lucky since those seem to be the easiest. So far, one #3 is spinning, I'm thinking the cage nut came unwelded? The other #3 has a stripped head (someone's tried to remove it on the past...). One of the #4's is spinning, one of the two rivets holding cage on broke... and the other #4 is so frozen I've broke 2 sockets on ~4' cheater bars after days of PB blaster... At least I know that at some point I'll have my body off and can fix stuff. Not sure what I'd be doing if the body wasn't coming off. Otherwise, assuming everything comes apart clean, should be a simple 1-side-at-a-time job using some wood shims while it's lifted up a bit. Hope you have better luck than I'm having so far!
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tyancey00
just did this last week. just use a lot of PB Blaster and take a couple days for it to soak in. we got all 8 out with very little trouble. The 2 in the rear were the worst...
The rear no 4 had to be cut out as the top nut was corroded.
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Old Jan 29, 2013 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike7143
Currently in this process but I was lucky in that 3 of the 8 were already removed (#1's and one #2)... or maybe not so lucky since those seem to be the easiest. So far, one #3 is spinning, I'm thinking the cage nut came unwelded? The other #3 has a stripped head (someone's tried to remove it on the past...). One of the #4's is spinning, one of the two rivets holding cage on broke... and the other #4 is so frozen I've broke 2 sockets on ~4' cheater bars after days of PB blaster... At least I know that at some point I'll have my body off and can fix stuff. Not sure what I'd be doing if the body wasn't coming off. Otherwise, assuming everything comes apart clean, should be a simple 1-side-at-a-time job using some wood shims while it's lifted up a bit. Hope you have better luck than I'm having so far!
Just jack up using blocks on the floor pan and battery box.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:41 AM
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Is this the correct orientation of the poly bushings? The instructions suck. Flat puck goes between body and mount.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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Default body mounts

I went out in the garage to see how tight the body bolts were. The 2 bolts down by the foot wells came out easy.I was susprised they came out so easy and I hope the rest of them are that easy.Thanks for the help,Charlie.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
They may have been easy for you, but the #4 mounts on each side give a lot of people a lot of trouble.

Agreed. if there are no rust issues, they should be easy.
I, however have had some issues in cases where they were rusted...
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 73ls1
I went out in the garage to see how tight the body bolts were. The 2 bolts down by the foot wells came out easy.I was susprised they came out so easy and I hope the rest of them are that easy.Thanks for the help,Charlie.
When you get No 3 out you are past most of the trouble. I would soak the bolts again with PB blaster and reinstall by hand back into the cage nuts to get some lube in the threads for the reinstall. Not sure what kit you bought, I bought the poly bumpers with sleeves for $60. Just couldn't see paying $100 extra for bolts and shims.
I made the mistake and bought 4" bolts and ran out of threads the first time. Need to use 3 1/2 in 7 1/16 course thread. I then put a nut on them and took them to the grinder and put a beveled point for easy starting.
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