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Need Help with 4 x 10 Kick Panel Speaker Install

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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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Default Need Help with 4 x 10 Kick Panel Speaker Install

I recently picked up some new speakers for my 70. 4 x 6's for the dash, and I have 4 x 10s that I want to put behind the kick panel like the 68-69s had them. It seems to me that the hole in the birdcage is not big enough.

Could anybody with a 68-69 show me a pic of how the speakers are mounted? Or if anybody has put 4 x 10s into a later C-3 I'd love to see how you mounted yours. Extra credit for a pic with the speaker removed so I can see the size/shape of the hole.

Thanks!

Edit: Maybe its not the size of the hole, but the position in relation to the floor? If you retro fitted to a newer C-3 did you cut any of the metal to fit the speakers?

Last edited by Crafty12; Mar 2, 2013 at 06:42 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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i just had new speakers installed in the front kick panels of my 69 convertible . I thought that 4X10 would work but they were too big . I had to go with 4X6 .
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 01:50 AM
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I'm pretty sure you can just screw the speaker frames to those support ribs behind the kickpanel. After '69, no mounting holes/hardware were put there. As long as you can position the speaker so that it mounts flat and isn't in a bind anywhere...and you install some loose fiberglass batting (or insulation) behind it to dampen body resonance, you can just install the kickpanel back over it. You can see from the area with all the holes where the speaker is to fit; maybe that will help you position it.

If you still have the Delco head, and the speakers are 4 ohm units, then you can hook the two speakers on each side in series [making sure that the speaker 'phasing' is correct]. That will provide an 8 ohm impedence to the head unit [which likes to see 10 ohms]. Wiring them so you have less than 8 ohms will present a risk to frying the power transistors, etc. if you crank it up.

If you have some other radio/amp installed, you'll need to wire them up according to their installation instructions.
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 10:19 AM
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68-69 4x10s have mounting tabs on them.




The hinge pillar opening behind the kick panel is essentially the same size on all C3s. The speakers do not install in the kick panels; they install behind them. No cutting required.


Last edited by Easy Mike; Mar 3, 2013 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 01:09 PM
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I appreciate the responses, but the page from the AIM and the stock photo from the CC catalog are not of any help. It is helpful to know that the opening in the birdcage is the same in the 68-69s as it is on my 70. That tells be that if anything is the problem it is the depth of the speakers I bought. That's why I really need to see a photo of a speaker in the mounted position. That will show me how far out the speaker sticks in a situation where the kick plate fits correctly.

Here are some pics I took today. This is as flush as I can get the speaker to sit before the frame of the speaker hits the birdcage.











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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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OK. The speakers you purchased are capable of much higher power than what you need with the factory radio. So, the magnet on the back side is 'deeper' so that it won't sit flush on the support braces. If you can send them back for a swap with a different speaker, do it. Just make sure you measure depth from the 'inside' surfaces of the struts where the speaker will be mounted and the body where the magnet will need to clear. See if the vendor can find a 4x10 speaker with less depth that will fit in that area. Even if the speaker is about 1/4 too deep, you could mount it with some 3/8" spacers under the frame to achieve needed clearance; the kickpanel will then stick out 1/4" too much, but that's no big deal.

Also check depth on the driver's side; it may be different.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 09:32 AM
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Thanks 7T1vette. The speakers are 35 watt, which from reading your other threads is right where I need to be. It isn't the magnet that is bottoming out it is the buttresses for lack of a better word that are hitting the birdcage. A few minutes on the bench with my metal sheers and the problem is solved. They fit just fine now, and I even had room to throw a piece of insulation in behind the speaker. I used a piece of the jute padding that was attached to the old carpet I removed.

I hate to Bubba it up, but now that they are in place the backs will never see the light of day again while I own the car.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:02 AM
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You didn't 'Bubba' anything. The get the sound better, you just did what you had to do. Hope it all works like you wanted.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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i have the exact same setup in my 72, 4x6 in the dash and 4x10 in the kick panels and have the same problem. The magnet isn't bottoming out it's the rear frame or support of the speaker hitting the sides of the pillar frame. I haven't remedied the situation yet.

Sully
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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I used 4x6 polk plate speakers in my 76. They installed easily . No cutting or grinding. I only had to drill 2 screw holes to mount them. The kick panels slipped back in place. You would never know they are there
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Sully1882
i have the exact same setup in my 72, 4x6 in the dash and 4x10 in the kick panels and have the same problem. The magnet isn't bottoming out it's the rear frame or support of the speaker hitting the sides of the pillar frame. I haven't remedied the situation yet.

Sully
As I said, a little clip with the metal sheers and some Dremel did the trick for me.


Originally Posted by Keesterdog
I used 4x6 polk plate speakers in my 76. They installed easily . No cutting or grinding. I only had to drill 2 screw holes to mount them. The kick panels slipped back in place. You would never know they are there
I need to add a second set of speakers to my 73. I bought new 4 x 6s for the dash and got the OE head unit repaired, but did know about the whole 4 ohm vs 8 or 10 ohm impedance thing and I fried the amp. It's getting 4 x 6s in the kick plates. I wont mess with 4 x 10s again.

Last edited by Crafty12; Mar 4, 2013 at 01:29 PM.
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