Hello Tom, thanks for the compliment. When I put this altogether back in 2013, I just was learning about the CFI from the 82 I purchased the year before. With all of the "problems" owners were having and the bad rap the Crossfire was getting then and still now to an extent, I thought it would be a good idea to write the "sticky". So with that in mind, and a lot of research, this has been the result. Even if it helps a member now and then, it is a success. Although I haven't really updated the "sticky" in quite awhile, it still provides an enormous amount of info for CFI Owners & Enthusiasts to check out anytime. I even created 2 FB Groups about the CFI....
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2028779944026147 and the https://www.facebook.com/groups/195672381799317

Haven't spoken with you for awhile.....hope everything is good on your end.....we will chat soon....
Tom

 

Great Sticky! IT answered and prompted for me so MANY questions. My wife was gifted this car by her cousin who was the original owner but died young. We have owned it since 1987 and have driven it only on fair days in the summer. We have done some things to it in the past 4 years that needed doing as everything on it was original. I have upgraded the fuel pump to an 85, (yes through the back deck gas lid- PITA!) swapped the lip seal brake calipers for o-rings, New Tires, Had the Trans rebuilt about 4 years ago, (hard shifts like crazy) 6 months ago we changed to an aluminum radiator and water pump. Stock thermostat. Runs so much cooler! Replaced the spark plugs with stock ones. Replaced the dist. cap and wires. We got a shop to bypass the heater as I read that they will leak eventually and we never use the heater so... Most things are not broken, just now 40 years old. Still has the original freon in it I think. I've never changed it and neither did the previous original owner. Original radio and cassette still plays. Stock speakers. Antenna works. Replaced bulbs and stuff as needed. And now I want to do the ECM and PROM upgrade to the 1984. Problem is, since this sticky was put together, many of the links are now dead and the places that used to carry them for 100$ or so are now asking 400$ or so. I have posted in the C-4 forum for parts for sale and in the C3 one as well looking for a good 1984 1226026 and 84 PROM. If anyone has..... also, we have done very little to this car. 57437 miles since new. Run Lucas oil with zinc. Pure gas. Premium. Other curious questions for me are: 1. Do I need to change the rear leaf spring? 2 Do I need to change the u-joints? 3 I have never serviced the differential. Do I need to? Someday will rebuild the power steering as I hear that can be a problem. Works fine for now.
So Looking for the ECM mainly. Thanks.

To the Beach last year.

 

Nice 82 and with time and patience, it will run well like any other SBC. Also, I wouldn't waste your time looking for an 84 ECM for your 82. It won't make it run any better than it runs now. If you do happen to find one, it may not be any good anyway and they are like hens teeth to find along with the 82s. I have a solution for that if you want to keep the CF system. PM me for more info. PS...Love the lower color on your 82.

Hey Tom, yeah, it's been a little while since we have spoke and I am available if you want to give me a call. I've been pretty busy as you are also I'm sure. The 82/84 ECM issues are becoming more and more an issue within the last six months. I guess all these ECMs are getting old and (S******) the bed. Electronics don't last forever. Looking forward to hearing from you this year.

 

Hi all. I realize this sticky is by now ancient but FYI, a lot of the links are no longer valid. I'm glad there's a starting point on the 82's just the same.

 

Not as ancient as you think JC82......most of the links...especially the CF links are still valid....I know that the Corvette Fever links are no longer valid....so I need to go through them and delete that info....if you come across any that are not working.....just list the Section and which link is not working.....it would be greatly appreciated.....as with all of the FB Automotive Groups I now have in operation.....it does get busy very quickly just about everyday......and yes although this thread is now 8 years old.....the info and procedures haven't changed over time.....it still is a Guideline for troubleshooting and helping to get your CFI to operate as good as it can be....

 

Thanks and I'll forward those that are kaput.

John

 

Great idea for this Thread ( Sticky). Not being new to the Vette world, I'am new to my Bright blue 82. Thank you so much for all the gathered information. I' am one to read every post just in case it ever happens to me. I also own an 02 Hummer H1 which requires much more maintenance than our Vettes. It is a great idea having something like this for this car. Hopefully, soon, I will get my idling corrected. I' am almost there and confident that I will be there thanks to this thread. Jacques

 

I ended up taking my CF engine out of my 82 collector edition and replaced it with a built high perf engine. The person I inquired the car from had it painted years ago back silver beige, but they didn't put back any decals or pinstripes. Whomever did the paint job did a bum job. I priced the decals and i see why they didn't go back with them, they are expensive as a matter of fact, everything is about this year and make/model. I'm in to deep now, can't turn back, but what if i didn't go back with OE stuff? Paint, interior, wheels ext. Has anyone ever just changed the whole scheme on the 82CE?

 

It's a shame that the previous owner did that which is usually done by a lot of people that have no clue about CFI...sad. It definitely devalued the car as a whole and maybe even more so since it's a CE. BTW, EVERYTHING on a CE is at a higher price than a coupe usually, because it's a CE, one of a kind car. Since it is no longer a stock CE, make it what you want and enjoy the car.

 

Thanks for the response Buccaneer, yes i understand what you mean about the CF theories one of my friends that is ASE master tech even down played the engine. I initially was gonna get that engine running tip top shape were as it had been sittin for 15yrs. I got it running myself after installing a fuel pump and new plugs, it ran but smoked like hell. So we snatched that CF out and replaced it with an engine we built. SB 350 4 bolt main with all new internals and a 280h flat tappet cam, 1.5 roller rockers by scorpion, eldebrock performer intake with a 675 Holley Brawler carb on top. 2300 stall converter, 355 gears in back with new clutch pack also all new poly bushings. In other words everything mechanical is new. It should be making around 450hp. My only problem will be getting it to hook up. I still have the CF engine though i probably will keep it in case i ever sale the car, it had 132,000 original miles on it. So thats done now on to the interior and paint, WOO still a ways to go. Sorry if i bored anyone with this long draft, just felt like typing.

 

So, I was having issues with my hardlines all bent up pretty and all with my new tune I'm doing from scratch. My goal is 11s ET and running 12s now. With that said, I knew that the hardlines "may" be an issue and sure enough they were. The issue is at lower rpm around 2500 or so, light throttle like coming off a light. The motor will stumble a little and hesitate and even buck sometimes. Worse time was I was giving it more gas and it didn't want to know about that and wasn't going any faster until you gave it it about half throttle and then it would take off.

This is a know issue like I mentioned and I have had it happen to two other CF motors with the hardlines, 82 and 84. When changed to softlines, it goes away. It has to do with injector pulses and what that much hardline does to affect the system and also the vacuum refereanced FPR has a little to do with it as well with the length of hose used.

With all tat, I decided to replace my fuel lines with a nylon braided fuel hose and -6 black fittings from Vibrant. If you go with the exact same setup as mine, you will need less than 4 feet of hose and 8 fittings. Six straight AN-6 fittings PN: 21006 and two AN-6 90* fittings PN: 21906. The hose is (2) pieces of 24" nylon braided fuel hose PN: 11956R Unfortunately it is only sold in 2 foot lengths, so you will have to purchase two separate pieces.

These AN-6 fittings are the push on type which means you have to push the end of the hose into one end of the fitting and then screw the other end of the fittings into that fitting to mate the two pieces. Works nice, but I would highly suggest that you purchase the tools to do this job right and save yourself a lot of grief. I already had the Koul Tool to insert the hose, but didn't have the anvil to hold the fitting and hose piece and screw in the other fitting. I suggest getting something like this vise anvil, a -6 wrench from Vibrant and another -6 fitting wrench. Another thing that REALLY comes in handy to make your life easy with these fittings is a good sharp cutting snips/shears. The ones you buy with the curved end cutter is junk IMO for cutting braided hose. See pics below for ideas. Hope you enjoy this small bit of CF info and it will help you out a lot in the end if you decide to go with this type of setup with an external fuel pressure regulator. Enjoy!

BEFORE INSTALL

AFTER




TOOLS NEEDED and SUGGESTED

 

The above post from Buccaneer is really interesting. I'm still trying to get my brain cells wrapped around the reason why the hard metal tube causes a fuel delivery problem, but the problem goes away with the softer lines. Pulse dampening?

Regardless, the tools shown here for making AN connections aren't just pretty; they are designed for a specific task. It is extremely difficult and frustrating to make the good solid connections as shown without professional tools. Thanks for the technical and tool tips!

 

Yep, it definitely has to do with injector pulses and with hardlines, it only amplifies the issue. The tools for sure make it MUCH easier to assemble everything vs fighting it the entire way.

 

Just a little FYI... I talked with Bob at Dynamic EFI and he said that he knows about this issue with the lines, but he said that from personal experience the Russell ProFlex Hose -06 AN, 308 Stainless steel covering for a more attractive installation CPE (Chlorinated Polyethylene) synthetic rubber inner liner caused some serious issues on his car. He could smell gas fumes and the inside of the hose was cracking and weeping. He was wondering why my hardlines was doing what it was doing though. It's about harmonics/hammering with the hardlines and injector pulses as you now know. My issue as far as my testing has gone so far shows that the issue is gone now with the hose install. All my hose and fittings are from Vibrant and will call them when I return from my trip and see what the story is.

With that said, he did say that he replaced that hose mentioned above with Pro-Flo 30R9 Braided hose about six years ago and no issues at all so far. It is the same type of fittings as the ones I used on mine, so the cost WILL be substantially less, since the hose is fairly cheap really and I already have the tools to make-up the hoses. I just thought I'd mention this for anyone wanting to go this route. Be safe and have fun.

 

This is great. Does anyone have any experience with the JET Performance Chip?

 

I have never liked the "canned" tune chips for the 82. The 82 chip was never fully hacked like the 84 was. So, with that said, they do not tell you what the difference is between the stage 1 and stage 2 chips. Kind of odd don't you think? I do not believe anyone when they say a stock CF can have an increase in power of 23hp at the wheels with a chip. I don't see that happening. I personally would stay away from that chip. If you really want a bang for buck kind of thing, move into the EBL FlashII ECM and laptop tune your beast. I have a very good stock tune for the 82/84 CFI motor that runs very well and IMO better than GM stock tune and it is not a crazy on the edge kind of tune. I do think that it is better than GM tune though and will give you some zip and you can also tune it from there if you so desire.

The great part about the EBL is that if you decide to do mods down the road like heads, cam...etc. You can and just adjust the tune as you go. You can NOT do that with the stock 82 ECM. Oh, and the EBL IS plug-n-play. Just unplug your stock ECM and plug the EBL ECM in, no cutting or splicing wires, load the tune, hit the key and go.

 

1982 Corvette Spark Plug Removal Impressions and Lessons Learned

I slightly revised this from an earlier (2007) 1982 C3 forum poster’s experience because it inspired me to tackle it. Thanks also to Willcox for lending their (attached printable PDF) cylinder # reference diagram

· Tool arsenal:

o Ramps or jack stands and lay down cardboard to easily slide around on under the car as you will alternate between up and under access, sometimes on the same plug.

o 3” and 6” socket extension, a straight spark plug socket and a universal (swivel) adapter for a couple of the plug. Sometimes, the selection of long, short or a combination of extensions is personal preference and flexibility - same as accessing from above or below in some cases. You’ll also need a spark plug gapping tool - they come gapped at .040 per the Delco website and the required gap spec is .045

o A 7/16 socket to loosen (not remove) one heat shield bolt/nut on each side of the block - they are affixed by a single `U-slot' that easily slides on and off when the bolt is loosened. Remember to put the washer on top when reinstalling.

o Disposable gloves - personal preference. I don't like how my hands sweat, but it reduces the small nicks/cuts with the sharp engine-bay bits everywhere.

· Plugs – I used the AC Delco 41-905 with double platinum pads to avoid ever doing this again.



Starting on the left (driver’s) side…

Plug #1 – Fairly easy to remove and replace (R&R) – I reached down from the top with the ratchet, long extension and the spark plug socket

Plug #3 – Still reaching down from the top, using the universal joint with an extension helped. Others prefer to use a conventional ¾” wrench to loosen the plug, but I did not find it necessary.

Plugs #5 and #7 – Accessed from below, first loosen (not remove) the single 7/16th nut holding the easily-removed heat shield with a convenient `u-slot’. The ratchet/socket worked fine for these 2 plugs


From the right (passenger) side…

Plugs #6 and #8 – Access them from underneath and very easy to remove. Remove the heat shield with it’s single loosened bolt. Since this nut and shield is close to the constant-on, hot starter connection, first disconnect the battery ground cable (!)to avoid arc sparks.

Plug #4 – This plug took me the longest to R&R. I removed the plug boot from below, then loosened and slowly removed it from the top using the 3” short extension with the universal, mostly by feel. No issues.

Plug #2 – Similar to #4, it is working blind in a tight space, but doable. I removed the plug boot from below, then reached in with the socket, universal and extensions from above while maneuvering my right arm between the fender and A/C lines/compressor and because you’re working blindly, all by feel - but no issues.



Hoping this helps others work up the gumption to successfully change their own plugs - it was immensely satisfying and is on your own timeline and in control on your own premises. Also, I didn't need to schedule an appointment, then both protect the seats, carpet, steering wheel, and seat belts from my regular Tech's (longtime friend) greasy hands/shoes; and, while worrying about it sitting outside in the unpredictable elements.

DV

 

It is no big issues but when i cruising in an even speed is a small hesitation/stumbling and especially at low revs, and I also think it takes a lot of gasoline, around 15 liters/100km around 15,5 mpg, (it's a lot, right?). Can someone please help me to analyze this file? Its a CE 1982 with the Cross Fire Injection, 35500miles. A lot of things are new, for example the fuel pump and filter...

Great thread by the way..

 

Ref: getting 15 MPG, see the "EPA" (US Environmental Protection Agency which governs automotive regulations) section on my `82 C3's original window sticker. It is rated to achieve 15 MPG, so no worries..


1982 Corvette Window Sticker

 

WOW..this is alot to take in!!! I am going to go out on a limb here and say there are 1000 posts on this subject but i am sure someone here knows exactly sooo....I am working on my dads 82 Collectors Edition. I am changing all the interior out. The last time the car was driven the dash lights went out. I just replaced the PCB and the brake light is on and tach is working fine but no lights on cluster. i have power at fuse and have changed the light switch. I notice the running lamps are kind of dim as well. I am assuming this is going to be a ground issue but i will check anything that needs to be done. would anyone have any ibput or know the locations of the grounds i would need to look at? thanks