Hello everyone.....it has been quite awhile....my 74 BB and my 94 ZR-1 are keeping me busy...as some of you may know I sold my 82 a year and a half ago.... I have read the most recent threads and very much appreciate that members are still enjoying the info listed here in the "sticky"..... I have also addressed the concern that some of the links are no longer working....
In Section 1.....links "F"..."I"...and "J" from Corvette Fever.com are and have been no longer valid for sometime.....I replaced the link in "F" with a Motor Trend Tech Article that is relevant to the topic..... "I" and "J" are left blank at this time....
In Section 6....link "L" is also blank at this time....
In Section 7....link "1" is also blank at this time....
All links from here on the Forum appear to be fully operational.....so if you find any that are not working.....please bring it to my attention and I will correct the concern...
Also hope that everyone is enjoying their 82's..... some of you may know and are already members in our FB Group(s) for the 82 and the CFI Group.....which also has some great content to checkout..... (16) 1982 Corvette Owners & Enthusiasts Group | Facebook (16) Crossfire Fuel Injection (CFI) 82-84 Corvette-Z28-Trans Am | Facebook

For Tom (Buccaneer) I apologize for not calling before....but will give you a call this week.....hopefully you will be available....
Thanks everyone.....

 

Help, I have read and read and read for hours on all the stickies here and check grounds and wires but can’t figure this out. 82 Corvette with 14,000 miles on it and I’ve known the car since it was new when I was 10 as it was my neighbors car. I used to wash this car when I was 10 and then he let me drive it when I was 15 and he’s older now with health issues. so he said he knew I would take good care of it because I have other Corvettes and wasn’t about the money. I just bought it from my neighbor for $1000 with a crank no fire problem. everything else on this car works including 40 year old R12 air conditioning, power windows, power seats, power mirrors, cruise control, intermittent wipers, rear defrost fully loaded in absolute mint condition. The only thing they did was add the white to the car to mimic Vic Edelbrock‘s 82 from a magazine article in 82.

so I read More here and everything led to replace the ECM. So a buddy of mine had a 84 automatic ECM and gave it to me and the car started right up but ran very rich and check engine light was dim. When I go to remove the ashtray and plug in the OBD1 or paper clip option it pops the gauge fuse and car still runs but you have no taometer or voltmeter gauge.

so I bought another used ECM 84 automatic from a member here and just got today and swapped it out. this time as soon as I turn the key to on it pops the gauge fuse but the car will still start and run but very rich.

what gives?

Aaron

 

Aaron, I hope the EBL clears up your issue and it should so you can enjoy driving your 82. Let me know. Interesting paint scheme, not factory, but nice. Show us some pics of interior.

 

[QUOTE=Buccaneer;1605630253]Aaron, I hope the EBL clears up your issue and it should so you can enjoy driving your 82. Let me know. Interesting paint scheme, not factory, but nice. Show us some pics of interior.[/QUOTE

thanks buddy, yeah they added the pearl white to mimic Vic edelbrocks 82 that was in corvette magazine he added the white. My friend liked it so much they add the white right off the showroom floor the next week. Everything else is original with oyster interior.

 

WOW! Looks great for original. Sure you don't want to sell it?

 

just wanna say got my new EBL from Tom otherwise known as buccaneer. put the computer in, hook the battery up car fired right up no check engine lights no rough running Rich and took it out for a drive tonight and love it. Quit wasting your time with used ECM‘s and just buy his unit it’s worth every penny. Aaron Quine

 

Thank you Aaron. I thought this would cure your issue and as you have seen, it works really nice and IS 100% plug-n-play if you want it that way. Enjoy your 82 again. One more thing, check your fuel pressure, it should be 13psi and will make your 82 run like the wind with the EBL.

 

The 84 ECM is similar to the 82. If it’s running very rich but the idle is OK, it’s probably in learn mode. It takes like 50 miles on a warmed up engine before it gets a good grasp of the parameters. Make sure your timing mark on the balancer is in the correct spot. The balancer often shifts and throws the timing mark off. Set timing at 10 degrees adv. if your idle become high, you have a vac leak. It’s usually the plenum and the early sticky explains how to fix it. Good luck and just drive it.

 

The car is FIXED! The EBL fixed the ECM issue, read the post above yours and his. The moral of the story is, stop paying good money for used 40 year old junk ECMs and just get an EBL and be done with it.

 

Hello! I just bought a 1977 Corvette,I am looking for info on swapping motor and transmission. I have a 1982 motor and transmission out of a G30 any advise pros cons?

 

This is NOT the correct area to post this type of thing unfortunately. Why would you want to put a BMW motor in a 77 corvette anyway? The C3 General threads is where this belongs or a BMW site..

 

Hey guys, have an 82 with 66k original miles. Having a hi idle issue currently. Check the tps today and it was at 511, played with it for a while and got it to 526, as you know every time you tighten the dam screws the reading changes. Checked for vacuum leaks and any disconnected hoses including under the air cleaner and everything looked good. Neither of these fixed to hi idle, 1400 at start up and never goes down. I did change the temp sensor on the front of the manifold a few years back. Took the car for a ride and noticed I had low heat coming out of the blower, took a look at the temp gauge and it had barely moved even after 20 miles. Now during the summer I had done a rad flush and replaced the thermostat with a failsafe model. Checked coolant levels in the rad and overflow tank and both looked good. Could the thermostat be stuck open and because im not ever warming up the computer is keeping the idle hi? Thanks in advance.... Cory

 

Everything I've read about the "700R4" automatic overdrive transmission originally installed in 100% of our 82's is, on balance overwhelmingly favorable. 82 was the first year of this successful 1980's/early 90's Chevy pickup truck/Corvette transmission. But, mine suddenly bit the dust last week. My wife had actually taken it out to lunch with one of her girlfriends who loves our C3; but, when she returned home and was backing it into our driveway on a slight incline all of a sudden I heard a `bang' noise - at first I thought she had backed into our plastic garbage can(our neighborhood's pick-up day) because that is exactly what it sounded like as I watched her backing up our driveway at ~1MPH - but, she was several yards away from the can and instantly the engine RPM increased because the car completely lost reverse gear. Thankfully, it still had forward gears so I could park it in the garage, but what an expensive bummer.

The owner of the impressive trans rebuild shop (Westland, Mich.) who I had overhaul it said that I couldn't blame my wife for the failure, whatsoever (I knew better, anyway because I witnessed everything), and that he has seen countless 700R4 transmissions which failed because the light/weak weld between the star gear and the trans drum separated. He said it is a long known issue which GM resolved later on in production, but at least the 82's are vulnerable. He mentioned (3) Japanese makes that repeatedly experience the same design fault. He said that they replace it with a new gear/drum unit that is heavily welded that the manufacturer of it calls it "The Beast". Anyway, despite the unexpected $3200 complete trans overhaul I actually feel blessed that the failure happened in my own driveway, especially with my wife involved.... or, that might have caused long term bad karma. I will include the photo/s of the the culprit drum unit showing the detached gear that lost reverse gear hoping this may help a fellow `82 C3 enthusiast brethren

Dave V., Canton MI

 

I wanted to pass along my exceptional success with the NGK G-Power UR4GP (platinum tipped) spark plugs. They are of the fine-wire design. I gapped them and installed them myself following the instructions somewhere on this sticky or in the main C3 forum. I replaced them because the engine seemed to be missing on a cylinder on cold startup. The Delco's I replaced appeared fine, but the difference in cold start up, idle and acceleration has been noticeable and impressive. I am sold on this plug and wanted to pass it along to anyone else who might benefit. Again, just remember to gap them - the specified gap is slightly wider than NGK's factory gap.

DV

 

Before you put the 700R back together, have a look at the Sonnax Smart Shell vs putting another Beast back in there. The Beast is not hardened or balanced, but it is a little beefier. This is why you hear people talk about a vibration in 3rd gear a lot of the time. I threw a Sonnax Smart Shell complete roller assembly with Torrington bearings in mine a long time ago and it has taken a beaten and keeps on going. I'm sure my 82 is out powering any stock 82. I may pull mine apart and have a look inside to see how things look and do an upgrade or two while in there. GL with your 700R rebuild.

 

Hey, Tom (Buc), I appreciate - more than you know coming from your respected `82 C3 expertise. Whenever you see me pop in to help others, please jump in as you, reliably do. You are an asset to this Sticky and overall C3 forum.

As far as your valued direction on the reverse gear failure that I recently encountered, I'm obviously too late to the party to change direction by my esteemed/respected trans shop here in the Motor City as the job was completed ahead of my post to hopefully help others. Also, I don't put my C3 through the performance paces as you enjoy. My wife is almost always along for the air in the hair drive to local towns like Ann Arbor, MI for the late lunch/early dinner and good tunes without leaning on it too much, though I understand that the repair is significantly better than the factory original trans since all of the known, original 700R4 design's weak points were recognized and resolved shortly after it was released as GM's breakthrough (better MPG, smoother highway cruising) Chevy Truck/Corvette transmission. Again, thanks - you are a genuine subject matter expert in our favorite hobby!.

Dave V.
Canton, MI

 

Thank you for your comments. The issue with your 700R is somewhat odd for what was going on at the time, but all it takes is a crack in the that shell at the hub and it's just a matter of time before it lets go and you're done. I had a good friend race her 77 vette at the track recently who had a 200R4 in it and it took a beating. She would run 11.50s and with her new setup 11.20s with that car and it launches really hard. The last time she was at the track she said that she did not have reverse and raced it anyway, which I thought was crazy as hell. Anyway, the trans let loose after a really good hit and the shell was destroyed alone with other things. Everyone one thinks that the 200R is much better than the 700R, I don't subscribe to that and think they are just about the same and the 700R has a lower 1st gear as well. It's all about how you build them and what you do with the car. GL and hope you enjoy your 82 even more when out cruising.

 

amazing

 

STICKY FOR FIXING YOUR 82 CE CORVETTE REAR HATCH by Hal (L-46man):

Thanks guys; bear with me here, I also have a business to run. This is going to be a living document... I'll write what and when I can.

Engineers notes;

As said already, the actual hinges stretch, and yield. The 'C's open up due to constant and very forceful pressure from the hatch struts.

Mine had opened up about 4° from normal. I found that 1° is about 1/8th inch of extra droop/ displacement to the rear of the car.

Chevy under designed the castings and the hinge itself...they didn't have a second model year, nor the time to see what would happen, developmentally.

Chevy puts about .250" of adjustment into the hinge. Mine were so far gone that someone had already 'taken that up'. So, I still had to move the entire assembly FORWARD 1/2 inch. It was just touching the rear deck

As a consequence of all that....the pins in the glass hatch had already worn a 'U' shaped channel into the latch keepers on the deck...1/2 inch. They were locked in place. In fact the actual release(s) were not contacted anymore. The passenger side one was completely locked in place.

Read the procedure a couple of times...acquaint yourself with the sequence....

CAUTION! YOU'RE WORKING ON GLASS...PINKY FINGERS IN THE AIR! GLASS/GLASS/ $3000 WORTH OF GLASS!

TAPE AROUND THE BASKET HANDLE AND LOWER DECK WITH BLUE TAPE, TWO LAYERS, IN CASE ANYTHING SLIPS...NO SCRATCHIE THE BEAUTIFUL SILVER BEIGE PAINT.

DETERMINE HOW FAR YOU WANT TO MOVE THE GLASS FORWARD.
REMEMBER THIS DIMENSION. IT SHOULD BE CENTERED IN THE OPENING/GASKET. MARK IT WITH BLUE TAPE.

First thing to try is to see if you can get EITHER of the latch pins to release.

1. I was able to reach up under the Pass side and grab the cable and yank it....THE PIN DID NOT RELEASE. see above...but I tried.
2. I was able to release the LATCH and GENTLY pry up the DRV side.
3. (THIS IS THE PART WHERE I SAVE YOU THE PAIN....LOL)
4. Remove the basket handle trim, extend the seat belts all the way and pull the trim away from your work area. I gently clamped the upper re-tractor belt with a plastic clamp to keep it fully extended.
5. You do not have to touch the center divider trim.
6. You can see the hinges now.
7. Remove the Allen headed 3/16th button head from the hinge-to- glass button keeper. Repeat both sides. Free the hinge, disconnect it. Swing the hinge down. It'll kind of pop and swing down.
7.1 I un-taped the defroster wires off of the hinge and let them dangle.
7.2 the hinges (black C's) are labeled RH and LH....they must go back in the same place.
8. There are little wire 'bales' holding the ball-ended hatch struts on.
9. Once you have removed the FORWARD bales, be prepared to have the struts shoot forward into the car....with some force!
10. Remove the lower hatch strut ball mounts.

At this point the hatch is essentially 'free'.
11. Have someone pull on the release or you might have to dive and do each manually...while someone gentle but forcefully wiggles the hatch FORWARD...to the center of the hinge latches (opening).
12. A little bit of piddling and wiggling and the hatch SHOULD open.
REMEMBER ITS NOT ATTACHED TO ANYTHING SO JUST POP THE LATCHES and lever it up a couple of inches...put a wood block or something kind under the edges so the hatch won't re-lock. Some tape will act as a hinge on the basket handle.
13. You can remove the hatch and put it on your wife's side of the bed as a conversation starter...or just put it somewhere very safe. You can take the other ball-ends off the other end of the hatch struts. TRY TO ALWAYS CARRY GLASS VERTICALLY... LESS STRESS ON THE GLASS.
14. Now we can do something about the hinges, themselves.
Draw on the hinges with a sharpie..Forward/ Right/ Left, and positions of the adjuster holes underneath as you saw them. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the hinges into the birdcage structure under the basket handle... remove the hinge assembly.

Use Dave Mcllelan's middle name...for he was playing politics while he should have been paying attention....HmmF!

15. Orient the hinge assembly exactly as it was in the car....don't flip the hinge mount up-side down...this will confuse you. Mark it TOP. Forward.

End of disassembly phase...hopefully.

Gotta do some stuff now...I'll come back to this a little later.

Don't break anything whaile I'm gone!

Phase Two FIXING THE PROBLEM.
16. As we have noted Chevy (C&C) has designed in about 1/4" of forward adjustment. For most of us that is not enough. I needed DOUBLE that.
17.Now that you have the hinges in your hand, I recommend temporarily taping (blue tape) the hinges and the 'keepers' (the part bolted to the bottom of the basket handle/birdcage) in the normal or as installed position. So it doesn't swing around and confuse you.

18. Next thing you'll notice is that there are four oval slots in the hinge hat section (bent like a hat)....EXCEPT the slots run east-west, not north-south!!!!???? Totally useless for our purposes! We need to remedy that to provide more adjustment.

19. You can only add an additional .250" (1/4") of adjustment this way. For many of you this will be enough. For some, like me, STILL not enough....but we'll get to that.
Carefully draw with a sharpie four 'T' shaped slots on the centerline of the existing oval slots. We are going to cut a 'T' slot into all four positions on the bracket.
20. Just for giggles hold the hinge above you in a normally installed orientation....you can see that the new slots will be facing the BACK/REAR of the car...so that the hinge can slide forward an additional .250".
21. you can cut these with a Dremel type grinder...slow but accurate...I used an actual sharp tipped die grinder. Go slow....be neat, remove burrs.

For many of you this is coming toward the end.

21.1 You can look at the little plastic bushings that act as the hinge bearings, they are black DELRIN nylon and see if there is a bunch of slop in them...of course replace the bushings if this is the case {where to get them from???? they look really 'stock' off-the-shelf.
Mine were okay so I re-used them. I found that the hinge bolts were perfect and they were tight.

21.2 I painted the upper hinge hat sections in flat black and let dry.

22. I got some slightly oversized washers in stainless steel to help spread the load around the slots evenly.
22. If your dimensions work out, you can reinstall the BUTTON HEADED Allen screws that hold the hinge to the glass retainer buttons, do them a little more than finger finger-tight for now.
23. Slide the hinges into the correct WAY FORWARD position and make sure RH and LH are in the right positions.
24. Center the glass, measure a bunch of times.
25. BUT wait! the rears keeper latches aren't latched!
26 We will attend to them now. You can prop the glass open....have someone hold it open for you or any combination thereof...UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES LET THE GLASS FALL...EVEN IF YOU HAVE TO TAPE A STICK TO IT!
27. You can now see how the latch pins will interact with the latches....you can adjust the latches very easily...they are a #11 metric bolt....there is quite a lot of room to move them around.

Rules of thumb; The latch pin shoulder (the flat on the pointy arrow part) should fall just under the retracting 'shelf' keeper....so you aim basically for the middle of the oval slot. The latch keepers will likely move a bit backwards. It is better that the pin should JUST contact the movable shelf/ release pawl....too loose is, for right now, better than too tight and you can't release the pin again! Sneak up on it.
The pins should be in the center of the oblong hole in the latch.

28. You can adjust the cables, so that the latches 'open' at exactly the same time....there are adjustment nuts to accomplish this. Do this now. Verify operation.
29. Using White lithium grease...lube the latches and pins.
29.1 You Can now slowly shut the hatch and verify that everything is lined up.
30. Suppose it is...yay! Now we need to 'finely' adjust the latches. You might have to move the latch keepers under the pin shoulder so the shelf fully engages the pin shoulder....this will keep the hatch from popping open under vibration....just mark, sneak up on it, adjust and try again.
31. Close the hatch until it latches EVENLY....you should hear a click/ click as the latches latch. The pin length is adjustable...and depends on the quality of your gaskets...Gentle pressure on the gasket is all that is needed...there is a wrench flat on the pin to adjust the length. I had to adjust the passenger side on so the two latches popped at exactly the same time.
32. Verify adjustments, verify dimensions...adjust as necessary.
33. Tighten all the bolts and Allens down to about 8 ft lbs.
34. Re-install the gas hatch struts.
35. Pull the handle and the hatch should open automatically with a satisfying SHOOSH!

 

Okay, I give up. Does anyone know where the Auxiliary fan relay is located on a stock 82? A photo would make me poop myself.