I think the best thing you can do is use Old Car Trader or Auto Trader and do a search for the 82. This will give you a barometer of what prices are going for around the country. Then, based on the condition of your son's, you would be able to better determine your asking price.

I also agree with some pics of the entire car, inside & out to help with the process.

 

Here are some pics of the outside. They are a few years old. The paint looks good at a distance but really needs to be redone. The interior is all there but a little ruff form age. He had the seats redone but some of the trim is cracked along with the dash and the carpet needs to be replaced. Sorry I don't have any pics of the interior, but the car is in AZ were my son lives now.

 

Any ideas as to what my son should ask for as a sale price?
Thanks,
Rob

 

I think this applies to the "82 sticky". I finally have the Vette on the road now and running pretty decent. I have PLENTY of other issues to fix but here is my question:

The car has a deep rumble but so quiet that it can barely hear it. I gutted the cat and disabled the AIR pump when the exhaust was off for the fuel tank change. I'm still wanting a more aggressive sound, a little more power would be nice too but not the driving factor. I know it's never going to be a hotrod.

Do I need to change the mufflers only or go true dual? What mufflers, either way?

FWIW: here is proof that she is on the road...

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...130821_002.jpg

IMO, she doesn't look too bad for a 31 year old, 115k survivor?

 

Looking good Bob, glad you are on the road....enjoy the drive with your 82.......

What the PO did with my 82 was changed the exhaust with a true dual system, left the 02 hooked up and eliminated the cat.....and it has the Magnaflow mufflers on the back end. I like the sound alot, you can hear it at idle, sounds great when you get into it, and a nice cruising tone with this system. I'm sure it created some additional HP, it always feels responsive....

Getting ready for Carlisle in the AM, the weather has been great in our area, and tomorrow is more of the same.....I travel the PA pike 5 days a week on my job, and the last 3 days have been treated to many Vettes on the pike, with this AM the best. I pass the Carlisle exit and today the grounds were crowded, and the line to get there was just like the old days.... Leaving early in the AM, the 82 is all wiped down and ready to go...........

 

Need a little help guys. Me and my dad bought an 82 that was some high school kids project and he rigged/cut/messed up so much stuff on it. We are trying to get it back right. We bought the manual from the parts store but it has next to nothing for 82 in it. Sorry for the lost post in advance.

Issue #1
The smog system has been removed from the car but the AIR injection tubes coming up off the exhaust manifolds have been left uncapped. The part that is supposed to screw on is this check valve. The thread size according to that link is 3/4-14. Does anybody make a cap that screws on and plugs up the hole?

Issue #2
The kid lost one of the air cleaner lid nuts so he just put a regular nut on it and destroyed the threads on the stud. Anybody have a part number for one of the studs or know of any other cars/trucks that I could get one from the junkyard and it would fit?

Issue #3
We need to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets and our local parts store has 3 different gaskets listed that are listed as exact fit. The problem is they all 3 have different port sizes. They have the Mr.Gasket 150, 150a, and 150b listed. The 150 has a round port 1.63", the 150a is a rectangular port 1.45" x 1.55" and the 150b is a round 1.5". Which one is the correct gasket?

Issue #4
Every single vacuum line needs to be replaced because we have unhooked loose lines dangling everywhere and we have no clue where half of them go. Does anybody have a vacuum line diagram and hopefully a link to a kit to replace them all?

Issue #5
We need to know all of the fuse sizes for the car. This kid had a couple of them pulled out attempting to troubleshoot a bad fuel pump. I found the diagram for what location is which spot in the fuse box but it doesnt tell me what size fuse goes in each one.

Thanks in advance. Im sure we will run into more issues as we get further along and Ill be right back asking questions.

 

Congrats on your 82, with a little patience you will get the Vette back in shape. You need to read through the "sticky". it will give you a good starting point for troubleshooting for any of your problems.
You also need to look in the "Book Section" and at least purchase the following: AIM for 1982....1982 Corvette Shop Manual...
& 1982 Owners Manual. There will be alot of the info you are looking for, and the owners manual contains the listing and sizes for the fuses.

1-I am not aware of any cap available for what you need, doesn't mean that one is not out there. You can try HD, Lowes, plumbing supply for a cap that will serve your purpose.

2-Don't know of any part # for said stud. Might be a standard size, check out your auto parts and stores mentioned in #1, they may have something, would probably have to be cut to size. Those hold down nuts are very hard to find, check ebay, etc., you may luck out and locate some for sale.

3-I have a spare manifold and will check the size and get back to you on that......update.....I matched the MrGasket 150a to the spare manifold and they should work just fine......

4-check out the vendors listed here, there are always sales offered for us members, they will have the kits and diagrams needed to get your vacuum system in working order.

5-Again the 1982 owners manual lists the fuses and sizes needed.
It really is a must to read and use the "sticky" to determine your next step(s) to get the 82 running great. This way you are not replacing any uneeded parts and with the other 82 owners here, all of the advice available will get you where you need to be. You have a lot of work ahead of you, good luck........................Tom

 

Thanks SSRoadster.

Issue #1 was fixed by cutting the nut off of those check valves and welding a steel plate to the back plugging it up. Ground it down smooth and it looks/functions a lot better now.

Issue #2. Wasnt able to find anything in the junkyard that worked today. We have already found the nuts and got them for free also ( lucky us), but still need at least one stud.

Issue #3. Checked at my local Napa and they only had the square port gasket listed and it looked to be better quality than the Mr.Gasket one so I bought it. It will be installed tomorrow.

Issue #4. My dad will be ordering the whole vacuum line kit from Willcox Corvette later tonight.

Issue #5. Got the car running today. Still need to do some more reading to find all the fuse sizes but at least its running. Now its just time to give in a full tune up.

 

The exhaust manifold should be the stainless steel shorty headers. Some people just take a pair of vise grips and crimp the small tubes.

The air cleaner studs are rare but eBay has full CFI intakes for sale for around $200. I bought one just for this reason, some parts are hard to find and the extra sensor you get with the intake make testing your original sensors easy.

The fuel pump is tricky. The oil pressure sensor must see pressure for it to stay on. It will only prime without pressure.

 

can someone direct me to the directions on getting the idle to come down? I just bought a collectors edition, runs great but idles at 1200 in park

 

Fast idle on one of these is almost always a vacuum leak. Plug off all of the manifold hoses one by one except for the map sensor and see if it improves.

 

Does anyone know where you can get an EGR Solenoid for the 82 ?

 

nevermind ...found one on ebay

This guys has some new old stock!

http://stores.ebay.com/corvette-part...-carter?_rdc=1

 

Would a fuel pump make the car stall out when going up a hill? I have a 72 4 speed and having issues. After it stalls I can't get it running until I let sit for 15 minutes.

 

Don't know if I can offer any solid advice, but I am sure some other members can. I am assuming that you do have a 72 & 4 speed manual trans, and that it was not a typo.....in that you don't have an 82 & 4 speed auto (700r4 trans).

So let's go with you having a 72. If you are having trouble go up at hill and the engine stalls out, then yes, a fuel delivery problem is most likely. But then again, you could have some type of short, which only happens when the vehicle moves in a certain direction, and then corrects itself on flat ground. This happened with my 82 when the coil wire under the dist cap ending up breaking and shutting the engine down.
My advice to you would be to start with the fuel system, then the electical sytem to locate the problem.
You can disconnect your fuel line at the carb and crank the engine to see if fuel is constant. Of course use a container to catch the fuel and use safety measures, as you don't want any fires to start. Have a fire ext close by. You may also have some type of carb problem(s) to where the floats may be sticking when you are going up an incline, or other carb problems. It appears that the engine runs fine on level ground??????

You should also check the electrical system to make sure you have spark if this condition happens again, would check it right away when it doesn't start to make sure that the spark is getting through. Carry a spare spark plug with you, undo a plug wire, insert the spare plug in the plug wire and lay across any metal in that area, and crank the engine to see it you have spark, and you won't get any electical shocks using this method. Check all coil wires to make sure there are no breaks and that they are attached properly to where they are supposed to be.

In my first car (66 Impala) I experienced vapor lock quite a few times with my 283 and it would shut down and not start up for a few minutes, so it is possible you may be experiencing that symptom.

Hope this helps somewhat................................ ..Tom

Another item I thought about is that after your engine dies, your starter & solenoid may just be getting to hot from the engine heat to restart right after the stall, and that could be a reason or a combination of reasons why the engine won't restart for 15 minutes. The starter is getting a chance to cool down after that time and that may be the reason it starts after 15 minutes. You can either add a heat shield or put a remote(location) starter solenoid away from the starter itself to help eliminate the problem.
So you may have more than one problem for the symptoms you have described.

 

Glad you located one, and that ebayer does carry alot of hard to find NOS parts, good to bookmark him.....

 

www.oldcarmemories.com/content/view/132/1/
I just found this article that I've never seen before but its very telling that our L83 engine are no joke! I wonder if the GM engineers where playing a joke by giving the 82 vette just enough to win fastens American car in 82 but not to undercut their new C4 vette???

 

Good read!

 

route me to the VSS specs, speedo broke and engine light on when drives

 

Don't know if you received any info yet on your request.....
I don't have much info on the VSS, other than it determines if the CFI engine is idling(stopped), or moving at speed, and sends whatever signal to the ECM to help maintain a stable idle.
Your speedo being broke is more likely to the speedo cable or cables in need of replacement or the speedo itself is the problem.
The CEL is also probably a different problem altogether and you need to obtain any codes from the ECM to determine that problem......Tom