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For C3 production (up through 1980), the factory set the mechanical advance at about 26-28 degrees, all-in around 4000 rpm. That is a far cry from 34-36 degrees, all-in around 3000 rpm.
Yes, you can fine-tune those details (and the vacuum can selection) specifically for your engine. But, not unless your engine is on a dyno or you have the patience of Jobe, lots of extra money for fuel, and a place to do regular acceleration runs if you do NOT have a dyno.
If you know what dizzy parameters you need set in it and the vendor can comply with those details...accurately, great; that will get you close enough for most folks needs. But, the most important aspect of buying a new distributor is the QUALITY of the distributor.
My last post was about a performance recurve. Stock build might want 36 degrees all in @ 2500 where a Performance build with good heads might want 32 degrees all in @ 3000. The performance difference between these is noticable. Vacuum can selection will vary depending on the build and cam, dozens of options are available as well as adjustables. Recurving a distributor for optimal performance is not a one size fits all and I have done dozens without a dyno in 1-2 hours work max. It is the best, low cost, power upgrade you can get if done correctly to compliment your specific build.
My last post was about a performance recurve. Stock build might want 36 degrees all in @ 2500 where a Performance build with good heads might want 32 degrees all in @ 3000. The performance difference between these is noticable. Vacuum can selection will vary depending on the build and cam, dozens of options are available as well as adjustables. Recurving a distributor for optimal performance is not a one size fits all and I have done dozens without a dyno in 1-2 hours work max. It is the best, low cost, power upgrade you can get if done correctly to compliment your specific build.
We find the mechanical advance (Of any Brand Distributor) is set to where it does not total until around 5000rpm. This kills performance. We tend to re-curve a distributor to total between 2500 & 2800rpm for much better performance.
This is a good average for most applications, but of course if you have access to the time and equipment, you can optimize for exact rpms for an individual application.
We can/and do set distributors for specific applications when the customer knows what they want, or have sought our expertise to help them determine what they want
We also find that not all distributors will re-curve as well as others. Some just won't total as low as 2500.
Thanks Terry! My question wasn't because I was trying to support the melonized stuff...it was simply that's the only term I'd heard used in reference to factory hydraulic roller cam compatibility.
Wish I had seen this ad 2 days ago before I ordered a non recurved distributor from somewhere else for the same money
Thanks Terry! My question wasn't because I was trying to support the melonized stuff...it was simply that's the only term I'd heard used in reference to factory hydraulic roller cam compatibility.
Wish I had seen this ad 2 days ago before I ordered a non recurved distributor from somewhere else for the same money
Bummer
Melonizing is a fine process, but often someone hears a term and get all excited and convinced that is the only way to go. In reality the gear needs to be hardened and treated to withstand the abuse, and Chromoly has been around for a very long time.
We can re-curve your distributor if you send it to us, or call in to see us and we'll do it while you wait (assuming you have it off the car).
Last edited by TerryWalters; Mar 14, 2013 at 05:18 PM.
so you set the advance weights and the vac advance?
We change/adjust the weights and springs, and set the vacuum advance. Adjusting the weights involves machining/grinding them, and this is done if and exact match isn't available off the shelf.
We have several thousand weights and springs in stock in different ratings to suit any distributor.