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The difference is huge and it has give my L82 a new lease of life. If you are looking for a cheap and simple way to wake up your 79 L82 and don't want to get into heads and cam just yet then this is a really good place to start.
Next I am planning a set of full length headers and true dual exhaust and I'll see where that takes it.
The difference is huge and it has give my L82 a new lease of life. If you are looking for a cheap and simple way to wake up your 79 L82 and don't want to get into heads and cam just yet then this is a really good place to start.
Next I am planning a set of full length headers and true dual exhaust and I'll see where that takes it.
i thought it was implied that it was re curved. maybe not, the best may be yet to come.
Once you have read, re-read, and read again LARS paper on recurving, you'll be surprised of the lost HP gained. This along with a PROPER REBUILD of the carb. and true dual exhaust will wake up your car. Also deleting the emissions crap will help too!
Sorry about the link. I paid for the curve upgrade on the new distributor so it came with the re curve kit already installed correctly.
No it didn't. Recurve and vacuum can specs are different and custom for each engine build. very difficult to set up proper curve and vacuum can unless you gave them all the specs on your engine including vacuum readings.
I am not an expert in these kinds of things at all and I have a great mechanic who installed the distributor and tuned the carb (Holley). My Vette is driving way better than it did before.
Eddioso,
Look at the top of the forum (red banner) and click on "other." Go into the "tech tips" and look at lars paper on recurving and check yours out this weekend. I think you will be surprised that you still have more to gain and your engine will run better as well.
Any distributor can be tuned for mechanical advance specifications without being in the car. But, the vacuum advance can would need to be selected according to the capabilities of the specific engine to which it will be used. If the OP specified a mechanical curve with a maximum of 36* of mechanical advance all-in between 2800-3000, the vendor could do that with a Sun distributor machine.
I would certainly think that should be checked when the dizzy is actually on the engine, just to be sure it's correct.
Eddioso,
Look at the top of the forum (red banner) and click on "other." Go into the "tech tips" and look at lars paper on recurving and check yours out this weekend. I think you will be surprised that you still have more to gain and your engine will run better as well.
Any distributor can be tuned for mechanical advance specifications without being in the car. But, the vacuum advance can would need to be selected according to the capabilities of the specific engine to which it will be used. If the OP specified a mechanical curve with a maximum of 36* of mechanical advance all-in between 2800-3000, the vendor could do that with a Sun distributor machine.
I would certainly think that should be checked when the dizzy is actually on the engine, just to be sure it's correct.
It can be done but the build specs and vacuum are needed. Factory build might be 36 degrees all in by 2500 for best performance. Aftermarket heads and high compression might want 32 degrees all in @ 3000 RPM. Vacuum can selection is based on your engine vacuum and again a high performance build might want limited Vacuum advance compared to a stock build. Even gearing will effect how quick you can bring the advance in.
I spotted this post, and wanted to let you all know the link is working again. We had run out of stock so we temporarily removed this item from our website, but it's back now.
The re-curve option does transform performance. Any distributor, not just those we sell, can be re-curved as long as it has mechanical weights and springs.
In our video if you watch at around 2 mins 30 secs you'll see a demo of the vintage machine we use for doing the work. The still you are seeing from the video is of a distributor on the machine.
The difference is huge and it has give my L82 a new lease of life. If you are looking for a cheap and simple way to wake up your 79 L82 and don't want to get into heads and cam just yet then this is a really good place to start.
Next I am planning a set of full length headers and true dual exhaust and I'll see where that takes it.
I could be wrong, but isnt that the same distributor Skip White sells for 38.00
For C3 production (up through 1980), the factory set the mechanical advance at about 26-28 degrees, all-in around 4000 rpm. That is a far cry from 34-36 degrees, all-in around 3000 rpm.
Yes, you can fine-tune those details (and the vacuum can selection) specifically for your engine. But, not unless your engine is on a dyno or you have the patience of Jobe, lots of extra money for fuel, and a place to do regular acceleration runs if you do NOT have a dyno.
If you know what dizzy parameters you need set in it and the vendor can comply with those details...accurately, great; that will get you close enough for most folks needs. But, the most important aspect of buying a new distributor is the QUALITY of the distributor.
I could be wrong, but isn't that the same distributor Skip White sells for 38.00
Disclaimer - This reply is not from Terry, although he may reply from time to time, and sometimes we will share his thoughts. Posts are made by appointed members of staff who manage the his web presence. He is however included in all postings.
We do not sell ProComp distributors any longer. I think you may find that those are what he is selling. He is a major customer of PC. We are not in the 'fill a trailer and sell it cheap' business. We sell quality parts and deliver a quality service.
You get what you pay for. You buy from us, you get a no quibble warranty, an expert machine shop, and a pedigree of race and street engine building that goes back 36 years. You can always buy cheaper, and there is no crime in doing that. Just make sure if you have a problem you can take it back
I believe he also sells 800HP crate engines for $4000, but I wouldn't rush to put one in your Corvette
No they are not melonized, they are Chrome-Moly Hardened Steel. Since they use Chromoly on planes, both military and civilian, I guess it'll be fine on a distributor.
Chromium brings resistance to corrosion and oxidation, high temperature strength and abrasion resistance. Molybdenum helps maintain a specified hardenability and increases high temperature tensile and creep strengths. These grades are generally heat-treated to specified properties. This is a specification laid down by Society of Automotive Engineers.
They are rated to work with hydraulic roller cams as well.
Melonizing is another type of case hardening, and a competing process to Chromalloy.
Melonite™ and Melonite QPQ™ are thermochemical processes intended for the case hardening of iron based metals. These processes are categorized as molten salt bath ferritic nitrocarburizing. During these processes, nitrogen, carbon, and small amounts of oxygen are diffused into the surface of the steel, creating an epsilon iron nitride layer (e - FexN).
Last edited by TerryWalters; Mar 14, 2013 at 04:35 PM.
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