Hello all,
Just a quick question about starting my engine after sitting in a garage all winter. The garage is attached to the main building at the body shop and my 70 coupe has been sitting there while he finishes up a 68 vert. Non heated. I've got a solid roller cam in a 383. They are the Comp Cams Endurex primary oiling needle bearing retro lifters. Should I yank the dizzy and prime the engine, or can I just pull the coil wire and turn the engine over for a few taps to get the oil pressure up?
Thank you.

 

Personally I'd do both. Yank the dizzy to prime it and then turn it over with no spark to get stuff moving.

 

There's no reason to prime it. Just crank it until oil pressure comes up.

 

I just installed my old solid roller that has been in a box for a couple years. I just fired it up and kept the idle at 2500 to get some good oil everywhere and bring up the temp.

One thing you really need to do on storage is to relax the springs. I run the rocker nuts back off. So to fire it I have to go through the valve lash setting.

 

Just turn the key nothing more

 

You guys are joking, right? All these theatrics for a car that's only been sitting for a few months?

Turn the key and go. Jeeze.

 

Yeah, just fire it up.

 

Fire it and go. It will build oil pressure immediately. If you are going to store it again for a length of time do what gull says and back off on the springs. Those are some heftier springs on those heads.

 

Awesome!
Thanks guys. This is my first solid roller motor and I'm solid roller sensitive apparently. I'm also solid roller naive. Gkull's suggestion to back the rocker nuts off is a damn good one. It's been sitting since December. The lift isn't too crazy, but still a no-brainer. I will enlist Gkull's advice next time is sits for a long time.

 

Thanks for chiming in G! After all you built the motor. Thing runs like a raped ape. I've seen you've been posting more on the forum and it's nice to have you back!

 

Been here a little more. Sold my house and the Vette and lift are moving out this weekend. Temporary storage for a bit then I will get back to it.

 

I had been wondering about you lately. Good to see you. Press on. mike...

 

Yup still here. Just a temporary absence.

 

WARNING: Longish post, with marine-power analogy. Reader discretion advised.



I mean, if it makes you feel better, pull the coil wire and grind it until it makes some oil pressure, then fire up, right?

Plus, it's a roller motor--wouldn't that have even less issues than a flat tappet mill?

2nd Question: I'll expose my ignorance here, but what is the deal with pulling the dizzy and "priming" the motor? Obviously, the concern is priming the oil pressurization system, but how is that accomplished through the distributor drive hole?

(Zipping up Nomex Suit)

To the OP: I'd like to attempt to reassure you, with an analogy to marine engines.

BOAT ENGINES have a rough life--doubt it? Open up a boat ad rag and see how many boats from the '90's and even 2000's are advertised as "repowered".

Why a tough life? Because there's no "down hilll" in the marine world. If you're "on plane" you're making between (my estimate--depends upon the boat) 1/2-3/4 of your rated power--ALL THE TIME. No down hills, no traffic lights. And EVERY time you start off, unless you're docking, etc..., you've got to "get out of the hole." (You don't have to "floor it," like in a drag race, but it's working, to get several thousands pounds up, "on plane").

Further, there's no "coasting." When you chop the power, boats FALL ON THEIR FACE, because they drop down off of "plane." (With the possible exception of hydroplanes--never been in one, but because they're SO "on top" of the water, they look like they can coast a little). With 99% of boats, if you chop the power unannounced, to avoid a wave, etc..., any improperly-seated passengers will be in a pile, up by the windshield. Boat engines are always WORKING.

Why do we care?

Because boats have fairly high-performance engines. And they are never "pre-oiled," unless by a conscientious owner I've never met.

My 1972 Chevy, in-line, 250 c.i. six (two bbl) puts out 165hp. I have the same engine in a 1975 van, albeit a 1bbl., and it's rated, IIRC, only 105 h.p. (When an automotive engine is "marinized," by Mercruiser, etc..., it's essentially "hopped up", among other things).

So... boats sit from October to May (well, mine was in the water until Jan., often, in snow country, but I'm "not right"), say 6-7 months, and NOTHING SPECIAL is done upon start-up.

My point is: Boats have fairly high performance engines, and BELIEVE me, marina's give ZERO "special care" upon start-up. (One of many reasons I always did my own work). There's no "pre-oiling"--reality is, YOUR boat's battery was used to jump the boat next to you, and no, no one ever recharged your battery. BTST.

But wait! I hear you saying "If they bothered to pre-oil them, then maybe there wouldn't be all those repowers." Good thought, but no. MY THEORY is: there are so many "repowers" in the marine world because of the way marinas *cough* "change" your oil. Marinas SUCK YOUR OIL OUT THE DIPSTICK TUBE, when doing an oil change, leaving (3/4"?) of "muck" on the bottom of the pan. Then they put new oil in, and call it an "oil change." (And charge accordingly ).

They do this because its difficult to get ANY drain pan under most marine engines (let alone one big enough to hold 5+ quarts--and if you DID get it under the engine, you'll NEVER get it out without spilling it--too tight). And when you have twin (or triple?) power, the space is even tighter. (This is due to how low they're mounted, in the hull/bilge, in order to accommodate the correct positioning of the outdrive, relative to the bottom of the hull. Translation: the bilge is too shallow to allow a big enough oil drain pan under the engine's oil pan. (I use a cut-out anti-freeze jug--please see below).

They SHOULD do what I do: suck 90% out of the dipstick tube, (after warming the engine, of course) then drain the small (NASTY!) amount out of the engine oil pan. I have a single, six-cylinder, so it's significantly easier than a V-8, or on twin V-8's. (But what I do takes twice as long. Marina's are about making money, not preserving boats--because they sell boats. )

My Chevy 250 c.i. straight six has been in service since new, 1972 and has never been opened. Doesn't use more than a normal amount of oil (tiny).

I NEVER pre-oil, nor do I even crank it, ignition off, to prime it.

To be kind to it, if you want, crank your engine, ignition off, before starting. If it makes you feel better, pull the plugs first--easier on the battery, less pressure on the bearing surfaces of the rotating mass. Personally, I'd just start it or, since you've got me thinking about it, maybe pull the ignition and crank it for 30 sec. (Just when I thought I couldn't get any more OCD--thanks! )

Hope this helps. (Apologies for the marine analogy, to anyone who's offended, but I did warn you, at the top).

Peter

 

I know it's apples to oranges, but I've seen a lot of hydraulic roller cam/lifter failures in 454 irrigation engines locally. Engines are running fine when shut off in the fall, then take out a cam and/or lifters when fired up in the spring. Builder's theory is that since all the oil drains out of the galleys, lifter wheels, etc., they experience a dry start up. It only takes a few revolutions without lifter bearings lubed to scuff the cam. Most report that the engine runs fine at initial start-up but begins missing within a few minutes. Teardown shows a cam with what looks like two lobes after it grinds out a good piece with the non-rolling lifter.
I'd prime it. Better yet, install an Accusump or similar pre-oiler and never have to worry again.

 

I as a matter of course crank until some oil pressure.
mainly to keep rear main seal from taking abuse.

 

I actualy have a shop tool from Morroso that fits down the dizzy hole and over the oil pump rod. Then you attach a 1/2 inch drive electric drill to the central shaft. the big drill has enough horse power to actually pump oil out every pushrod. So when we put a new motor on the dyno for the dyno breakin runs it is primed and ready to go. Real race motors even have oil and or water heaters. So you plug in the motor at least 1/2 hour before starting so the block and the oil is up to 180 degrees before starting