Rear Strut Rod Question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 159
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From: Calgary Alberta
Rear Strut Rod Question
I didn't want to do it but I had No Choice..after a couple weeks of spraying several different penetrating oils & heating the heck out of them, and swearing like a trooper I finally admitted defeat and cut out the rear strut rods on my 79 coupe. I am now going to order some new ones and wanted to ask some of the very knowledgeable members here about the replacements.. I'm thinking of ordering the n heavy duty type that say they are less likely to deviate from the set camber than the stock rods and have the sleeve type adjustment as opposed to the traditional offset camber bolts and washers. I'm just wondering how many of you folks have used these and what you think of them before I go ahead and order them? Have you had good results from them or would you stay with the stock rods? Any feed back would be greatly appreciated..Thanks Folks..
Safe Driving
Safe Driving
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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The so called 'smart struts' 
are often seen to work themselves loose. Far more often that the stock struts- as you've seen with your recent experience.
If you insist on getting them go for rubber or Heims joint ends, not poly.
are often seen to work themselves loose. Far more often that the stock struts- as you've seen with your recent experience.If you insist on getting them go for rubber or Heims joint ends, not poly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
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From: Thunder Bay
I have the poly adjustable strut rods ffrom Vette Brakes on my '79. They have been there for almost 20 years. I would never consider using the stock design unless originality was a factor. The adjustable strut rods are vastly superior to the General's original design. If you have to replace them anyway, its a no-brainer.
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Definitey get the adjustable type. I've used poly and heim style with equal success. Never had one come loose yet. They were all from Vette Brakes.
And while you're at it I'd use the Smart Strut bracket to give you some more adjustability if you think you'll ever need it.
JIM
And while you're at it I'd use the Smart Strut bracket to give you some more adjustability if you think you'll ever need it.
JIM
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,022
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From: Lokeren, Belgium
No one has issues with heim joints squeaking then? I've driven 700 miles with them, they are great but after every trip they squeak like crazy. Dry teflon lubrication works but don't feel like doing that after every drive and makes me want to go back to stock (not the poly adjustable as they are more prone to turning loose)... (I got this kit btw ecklers heavy duty strut rods)
Last edited by dembo; Apr 22, 2013 at 02:45 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,454
Likes: 977
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
Heim joint struts-eliminates the bushing both rubber and poly. No squeaks for years.Much stronger! Get the competition adjustable struts. Got mine from midamerica a few years ago for $100 on sale. No brainer.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 22, 2013 at 06:17 AM.
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Team Owner
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From: Western NY
No one has issues with heim joints squeaking then? I've driven 700 miles with them, they are great but after every trip they squeak like crazy. Dry teflon lubrication works but don't feel like doing that after every drive and makes me want to go back to stock (not the poly adjustable as they are more prone to turning loose)... (I got this kit btw ecklers heavy duty strut rods)
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Mine are greasable. Theoretically not as strong....but no issues for years. Just grease them every year or so when I think of it.
Never had a poly one come loose either. If you did...something was wrong.
JIM
Never had a poly one come loose either. If you did...something was wrong.
JIM
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Springfield VA
Good thing we all agree, I'm sure the OP is greatful. 
for me I'm going to install the adjustable ones with poly. But I like my car to be firm and handle as well as it can. If you are just a crusier type then go with the oem style.
for me I'm going to install the adjustable ones with poly. But I like my car to be firm and handle as well as it can. If you are just a crusier type then go with the oem style.
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Instructor
Joined: May 2002
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From: Calgary Alberta
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
I don't have the Seals-it rubber boots for Heim joints but would consider getting them if I was putting on the competition adjustable struts today if I was doing the job again-would probably put these boots on if I have to take my struts off now for some reason but not going to put the boots on if I don't have a reason to take the struts off since I have had no issues-just a precaution!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Southern NH
I put the corvette central competition heim joint style on my car a few weeks ago and yesterday I noticed there is play in them if I grab the wheel at 12 and 6 with the car jacked up. Its not the wheel bearing moving as I can actually see the heim joints move.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
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I installed the VBP HD strut rods to mine. Very happy with them.
But like it was mentioned before: they can loosen up. We've had couple of cases locally, mine included. Friend of mine had one come loose when driving but luckilly no damage, just a weird moment while turning at slow speed. After that I inspected mine and one of the lock nuts was spinning freely. Since I have inspected them couple of times per summer. It seems to me that they are like alu wheels: after initial tightening you need to recheck them after some driving and retighten if necessary - then they seem to stay tight. Mine has been installed for 3 years now. This is a 100 year old tech which is widely used in aircraft, sports- and racecars, so the tech is sound but they require some attention from the owner.
So, inpect them every now and then to be safe. Or use blue Locktite - or lock wires.
PS. I don't like the poly versions. Think about it: the end piece is basically a bolt welded to a piece of tube. I've seen a pic of this weld breaking off.
But like it was mentioned before: they can loosen up. We've had couple of cases locally, mine included. Friend of mine had one come loose when driving but luckilly no damage, just a weird moment while turning at slow speed. After that I inspected mine and one of the lock nuts was spinning freely. Since I have inspected them couple of times per summer. It seems to me that they are like alu wheels: after initial tightening you need to recheck them after some driving and retighten if necessary - then they seem to stay tight. Mine has been installed for 3 years now. This is a 100 year old tech which is widely used in aircraft, sports- and racecars, so the tech is sound but they require some attention from the owner.
So, inpect them every now and then to be safe. Or use blue Locktite - or lock wires.
PS. I don't like the poly versions. Think about it: the end piece is basically a bolt welded to a piece of tube. I've seen a pic of this weld breaking off.
Last edited by ToniH; May 8, 2013 at 11:14 AM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
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To me it seems that poly ends direct much more torsional forces to the strut rod ends than heim jointed ends.
End result can be something like this (questionable weld, rust, torsional forces and a snap!):
Picture by a forum member (cannot remember who).
End result can be something like this (questionable weld, rust, torsional forces and a snap!):
Picture by a forum member (cannot remember who).
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Florida
That's why the principle is used as ball joints, tie rod ends, rack and pinion steering etc.
They will NOT cause adjustable struts to loosen.
That's nonsense.
My struts have been on for years, set at camber adjustment once and never touched since and the car gets driven year round.
Here is a primer on joints.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...008/joints.htm