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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 02:29 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
you're wrong... try again

air pressure keeps the float down (pulling the needle off the seat) - thus keeping the fluid flowing when it should be shut off
No, that's called 'gravity'. Try turning your carb upside down and see what happens.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
so your saying if i ordered the complete version of the zz4 then i cant use the water pump it comes with, I would have to use one off old engine?
yes, everything else is compatible though. corvettes use shorter water pumps than other car because the radiators are so close to the engine
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by qwank
yes, everything else is compatible though. corvettes use shorter water pumps than other car because the radiators are so close to the engine
Sweet! Thanks for the help. I want to do it right the first time so good thing you told me about the zz4 before i bought a 350 small block for mor making less power :P Also whats the best way to go about pulling engine? As in did someone do a write up guide, or is there a book, or etc?
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 04:47 PM
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turbo-ing the stock engine is a waste of time and money. Here are some options for you:

1. If you like to work on things and swapping a crate does not seem like fun, you can bring the stock engine above 350HP in your garage with some bolt-ons. heads, intake, cam etc. and you don't have to do it all at once, you can modify it piece by piece as time and money allows.

2. if you want a crate, get a stroker, it will look the same on the outside but it will have more more torque and hp. no point of going thru the swap and installing the same CI motor if installing a stroker is the exact same procedure.

3. if you're dead set on boosting the stock engine on a tiny budget did you consider adapting a used Eaton supercharger (90ci or 112ci)? it would fit nicely in the AC compressor area, its easier to install, and produces less heat...(hopefully I will do it one day too)
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by PaPaPork
turbo-ing the stock engine is a waste of time and money. Here are some options for you:

1. If you like to work on things and swapping a crate does not seem like fun, you can bring the stock engine above 350HP in your garage with some bolt-ons. heads, intake, cam etc. and you don't have to do it all at once, you can modify it piece by piece as time and money allows.

2. if you want a crate, get a stroker, it will look the same on the outside but it will have more more torque and hp. no point of going thru the swap and installing the same CI motor if installing a stroker is the exact same procedure.

3. if you're dead set on boosting the stock engine on a tiny budget did you consider adapting a used Eaton supercharger (90ci or 112ci)? it would fit nicely in the AC compressor area, its easier to install, and produces less heat...(hopefully I will do it one day too)
Im gonna go with number 2. But people said that the zz4 is a more reliable engine then a stroker for dd. Is this right?
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #26  
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cheapest way to turbo a C3 is buy a LS 5.3 (or even a 4.8) from a truck and turbo it.... there is no cheap way of turbo charging a SBC and having it live for any time at all. An LS motor has the architecture to handle boost while maintaining head sealing and bottom end integrity - add to that, a 5.3 truck motor, shipped to your doorstep is less than $500. You'll never build a SBC that can handle boost for less than 4x that amount

One of the biggest fails for turbo charging is putting a turbo on a large by huge motor.... you can make more power than your drivetrain can handle with (relatively) tiny motors.

In short, you can make more, reliable power by downsizing the motor and upsizing the turbo - the biggest fail issue on turbo motor is head gaskets, get more sealing area for the head gaskets.

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; Apr 22, 2013 at 06:56 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
No, that's called 'gravity'. Try turning your carb upside down and see what happens.


really, stop - my sides are hurting from your analogy and your amazing grasp of physics.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 07:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Im gonna go with number 2. But people said that the zz4 is a more reliable engine then a stroker for dd. Is this right?
nothing wrong with the zz383 either. but it cost almost twice as much for an extra 50hp and 50ftlbs of torque, so in my opinion the zz4 is a better bang for your buck

if you wanna do something really cool put a big block in
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #29  
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Haha im not good enough for that yet. Im 17 and still learning. My first engine swap i want a bolt in motor essentially so i can get the concept down. Ill have plenty of time to do that the next 30 years of my life
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 10:53 PM
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Always build the bigger motor wether the size comes in the form of a larger crank, forced induction etc. Youll never build a 350 again trust me.
6lbs on a 350 wil run pretty darn good. You can add heads/cam as you can afford to. Its a disease so work hard save your money.

Import blocks are put together pretty well some really overbuilt from the factory unlike some American pieces build accordingly
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 11:16 PM
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I think ill go with the zz4. so if i get the unfinished model. Can i use the stock water pump, carb, distributor, air filter, fuel pump, pulleys, etc on the zz4? Just wondering if i could save a few bucks.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Haha im not good enough for that yet. Im 17 and still learning. My first engine swap i want a bolt in motor essentially so i can get the concept down. Ill have plenty of time to do that the next 30 years of my life
then make a non-turbo motor run (NA motor) - you need those skills before you practice your melt-downs with a turbo motor.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 11:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
then make a non-turbo motor run (NA motor) - you need those skills before you practice your melt-downs with a turbo motor.
Thats what ive been saying im gonna do. Also i turboed my dd so i have experience with them.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 12:01 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Thats what ive been saying im gonna do. Also i turboed my dd so i have experience with them.
the Vdub is a good start to turbo as the possibilities of bad things happening is far less with a high-tech computer controlled motor as opposed to a knuckle dragging motor.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 12:08 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
the Vdub is a good start to turbo as the possibilities of bad things happening is far less with a high-tech computer controlled motor as opposed to a knuckle dragging motor.
Yea i get your point. I think ill just swap a zz4. That hp is fine. I dont need more and if i do ill go a small shot of nos but i doubt it.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Yea i get your point. I think ill just swap a zz4. That hp is fine. I dont need more and if i do ill go a small shot of nos but i doubt it.
.
you'll make it.......
would like to add
not so long ago
I drove a Camaro with a 383 stroker 4spd 411 out the back
Wish I hadn't done that.......
That motor was just flat out a monster
very impressed.!

I'm rethinking the money just spent putting a BB in my 69 vette

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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 01:33 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Yea i get your point. I think ill just swap a zz4. That hp is fine. I dont need more and if i do ill go a small shot of nos but i doubt it.
then you're swap cams, then a better intake, then maybe raise the compression.... oh wait, that's what I do

I say this a lot because doing so saves time and money - pick an end point for the car; then build to that point. e.g. decide what hp, what transmission, what you're going to do with the car.... oh yeah, and dream big. It's amazing how you can get to that unimaginable point if you have a plan - when you have a plan you don't build 2 or 3 motors, you don't swap 3 or 4 transmissions, etc, etc, etc... if you want a 1000 hp, LS powered, twin turbo, cornering, show car monster - you'll be able to avoid the "super" deal on a t-56 or a BBC because it doesn't fit within the plan, AND when you do find a super deal on an LS motor, you'll be able to afford it (because you didn't buy the transmission and BBC)

zz4 is a nice cruiser motor, good economy, good idle and vacuum.... which is something I'd never do (stock is too reliable)

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; Apr 23, 2013 at 01:36 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 01:50 AM
  #38  
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I'm amazed at how many Turbo exsperts we have here... There has been many Idea's on how to make a Blow threw Carb work. The Floats however are not a problem, it would take a whole lot o boost to get a Float to sink in a Liquid. The Throdle Shafts need to be sealed or under boost the Air-Fuel Mixture will blow out into the Engine Compartment with devistating results. Another way to do this is to build a Box around the Carb and Seal it in. Since a Carb only uses 6 psi Fuel Pressure as soon as You make boost You will just push the Fuel backwards into the Gas Tank. So You need to build a Fuel Pressure Regulator that sences Boost pressure, and therefore maintains 6 psi above boost Pressure. There are some power Valve issues as well, and when done it will be a Jetting nightmare, more so if you go with the Box method of sealing. A Carb is nothing more than a controled Fuel Leak, and set up like this it will be a Fuel Leak out of control.
There is a reason why GM hasn't put a Carb on a vehicle since 1987.
Contrary to popular belief Turbo Chargers are very easy on Engine Componets and Drivetrains. They make Boost gradualy and there for Torque is applied the same. Modern Head Gaskets eliminate O- Ringed Heads of the 70's. Probably the first thing needed will be HD Exhaust Valves.
So what dose this all mean? There really isn't a good way to build a inexspensive Turbo Motor for a C3. A modern FI Engine would be a good start, however the ECM that comes with it probably won't work so that means a custom aftermarket ECM and that alone will blow most any buget. However if You are willing to do all this the end result can work very well, you can end up with a Motor that Idles well, has good vacume to run brakes etc, dosn't break drivetrain parts, drives like a stock car out of boost and can lay down 700 HP on command. I have delt with these issues for 25 years in my C3.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 02:00 AM
  #39  
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I agree with an above post that you have to get rid of the ricer mentality. ..and I don't mean to be offensive. A turbo is way too involved and impractical, especially if you are looking to get 300-350hp. Unlike most of the ricer 4 banger community, you don't have to get a "turbo" to get power out of an ALL AMERICAN CHEVY SMALL BLOCK

If someone was insistent on forced induction, I would recommend a small roots blower such as the weiand 142/144 (just so happen to be doing so myself)

But for your goals, if the money is there, then buy a crate motor as recommended above, or for cheap, get a decent cam & exhaust, spend a little more for some heads, and your at your goal easily with your L48.
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Old Apr 23, 2013 | 10:22 AM
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Thanks for all the help. Also I'm not offending but just to clear things up. In the import world, turboing your car has nothing to do with being ricer. Its cosmetically ****ing up your car basically. Aka a spoiler on a fwd car, huge exhaust, stupid body kit, cutting springs, etc. The chevy small block is a whole new world for me. With my jetta there were no engine swap options. It was all FI. Apparently these cars its engine swaps and I think swapping in a crate engine will be fun and interesting. I hope I just dont break anything or forget something when pulling the engine :P will be my first time.
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