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Yep thats what we talked about. Just get familiar with her and how everything works. I already watched motorz video about striping, machining, building bottom and top end of engine. They were great videos. Also i dont plan on turbo. He suggested if i wanted even more hp. Which honestly going from 165 to who knows hoe much. Should satisfy me for a while. ive heard SC would be best route if i wanted even more. But before that im going to save for a new suspension and new transmission with torque convertor and shift kit. That would be next year though.
When you get your elbows into that tiny cavity that the engine fits into you'll understand that there's really not room for turbo(s)and all their attendant plumbing in there. Something like a Paxton-type blower can be made to fit, but even then you have to put the carb in a box unless you're gonna run an efi system. Things that can be done easily under the hood of a Camaro or Chevelle become a real challenge in a C3. Also, don't forget - fiberglass burns at a temperature when metal is merely getting hot..
Yea. I'm pretty sure that the cams, heads, and etc rebuild will give me plenty of hp. If I want anymore hp, there is always n20 but probably not. I should be fine at the rebuild. Thanks for all the help guys. My build thread should come up in a month or two.
I DO understand, having spent my teenage years in the hills of Washington State, that possibilities can seem endless to some. A V6 in a Fiat Spider? Seriously??? That's AWESOME...
that build is nearing completion, the next one is even more radical - 50 Buick Sedanet with a twin turbo 455, now 430, aluminum head, stock block build. After all, I can't have my wife having the fastest car in the family
when I was growing up, I had lots of old guys who hung around and told me what I couldn't do..... I really enjoy hearing them now saying "well, I'll be a monkey's uncle"
if (I should say when, but for sanity sake, we'll use "if") I turbo my C3, I'll put the turbos just in front of the firewall, next to the vents. If you remove the cruise control, and the a/c box - there's room... and I'll keep my side pipes. As for heat - thermal blankets make for a more efficient turbo; and you could put paper on the outside and it'd never catch fire.
Sweet! Thanks for the help. I want to do it right the first time so good thing you told me about the zz4 before i bought a 350 small block for mor making less power :P Also whats the best way to go about pulling engine? As in did someone do a write up guide, or is there a book, or etc?
You'll want the zz383. Cost more but well worth the power in my opinion. Beats the zz4 any day of the week. Add a turbo, 550 horse easy.
entertaining... especially the bit about fuel leakage and explosions from around the throttle shafts - I suppose it's possible, just like evolution is possible.
to the rest of the haters.
I suspect I have more turbos on my shelf than you've ever driven.... and I've installed and driven far more turbos than most
but flame on - I think the OP gave up.
Well now that I have figured out what a top end build would run me as in cost, and where it would put me at hp. I am going through all my options before I commit to it. I now have a friend that turbos every car he touches and can cut and weld any pipes, bends, bunges, anything I need. Now IF I did turbo. I would run a single turbo where a/c is (a/c is broken and removing it). Then run it at around 7 psi w/ no intercooler to the carb. I read that you dont need a blow through carb untill 10psi? Or was it blow through carbs only work up till 10? Anyways If I did the setup on passenger side how would it hook up to exhaust manifold?
Well now that I have figured out what a top end build would run me as in cost, and where it would put me at hp. I am going through all my options before I commit to it. I now have a friend that turbos every car he touches and can cut and weld any pipes, bends, bunges, anything I need. Now IF I did turbo. I would run a single turbo where a/c is (a/c is broken and removing it). Then run it at around 7 psi w/ no intercooler to the carb. I read that you dont need a blow through carb untill 10psi? Or was it blow through carbs only work up till 10? Anyways If I did the setup on passenger side how would it hook up to exhaust manifold?
use cast-iron manifolds and turn them around so the exhaust port faces forward. Run the cross over pipe under the oil pan. I build headers - it's not for the uninitiated. 7 psi is a lot without an intercooler - that said, you can also run methanol injection rather than use an intercooler.
As for carbs, I've never been a fan of blow-through - especially since buying the carb will likely be the most expensive part of the build.... look into fuel injection, such as using a TPI with higher-flow injectors
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; Jun 14, 2013 at 10:01 AM.
so if I get the turbo hooked up to the header, downpipe from turbo to passenger side exhaust, then run the piping from turbo to carb with a bov. This will work? with of course all the extra bits and pieces.
Last edited by Planbmatt1; Jun 14, 2013 at 10:45 AM.
so if I get the turbo hooked up to the header, downpipe from turbo to passenger side exhaust, then run the piping from turbo to carb with a bov. This will work? with of course all the extra bits and pieces.
work yes, work for long - probably not - you've still got cast pistons in that L48 motor. Add a fuel distribution problem (blow-through) to the list of problems and you might get 1000 miles out of that set up.
really, stop - my sides are hurting from your analogy and your amazing grasp of physics.
You really need to buy a book on how a carb works. It is called a "float" because it floats on the gas in the carb not because air pressure is pushing it down. When the gas in the bowl gets low the float goes down and the metering needle comes up to allow the gas to come in. Normal atmospheric pressure will not cause a problem with fuel flow in to the carb. When boost is added, a problem can arise due to the boost pressure entering the bowls of the carb and not allowing them to fill up. To cure this problem, you need a fuel pressure regulator that has a boost reference to increase fuel pressure under boost.
I'm amazed at how many Turbo exsperts we have here... There has been many Idea's on how to make a Blow threw Carb work. The Floats however are not a problem, it would take a whole lot o boost to get a Float to sink in a Liquid. The Throdle Shafts need to be sealed or under boost the Air-Fuel Mixture will blow out into the Engine Compartment with devistating results. Another way to do this is to build a Box around the Carb and Seal it in. Since a Carb only uses 6 psi Fuel Pressure as soon as You make boost You will just push the Fuel backwards into the Gas Tank. So You need to build a Fuel Pressure Regulator that sences Boost pressure, and therefore maintains 6 psi above boost Pressure. There are some power Valve issues as well, and when done it will be a Jetting nightmare, more so if you go with the Box method of sealing. A Carb is nothing more than a controled Fuel Leak, and set up like this it will be a Fuel Leak out of control.
There is a reason why GM hasn't put a Carb on a vehicle since 1987.
Contrary to popular belief Turbo Chargers are very easy on Engine Componets and Drivetrains. They make Boost gradualy and there for Torque is applied the same. Modern Head Gaskets eliminate O- Ringed Heads of the 70's. Probably the first thing needed will be HD Exhaust Valves.
So what dose this all mean? There really isn't a good way to build a inexspensive Turbo Motor for a C3. A modern FI Engine would be a good start, however the ECM that comes with it probably won't work so that means a custom aftermarket ECM and that alone will blow most any buget. However if You are willing to do all this the end result can work very well, you can end up with a Motor that Idles well, has good vacume to run brakes etc, dosn't break drivetrain parts, drives like a stock car out of boost and can lay down 700 HP on command. I have delt with these issues for 25 years in my C3.
Chevy suburban with a 454 had a carb from the factory in 1990. It is actually the last American vehicle to feature a carb from the factory.
so your saying if i ordered the complete version of the zz4 then i cant use the water pump it comes with, I would have to use one off old engine?
Edit: Ok i see it comes with a long water pump and i would need to get a short one. Got that figured out.
Basically all i need now is something to teach me how to swap an engine. I really want to do it on my own. I have 2 cars. It could take me a month to do the swap for all I care. I just want to do it incase anything breaks I know how to fix it, and so when i pop my hood I can say I did this **** myself :P I would also get an engine crane so I can pull it myself.
Yes the Corvette uses a short style water pump due to the tilt of the radiator. A book to help with the engine swap isn't a bad idea. I applaud you for wanting to do it on your own, you will learn A LOT from doing so. Disconnect and label wires will help you out a lot, doesn't hurt to take pictures of the engine before you start ripping a tearing either. The book is nice to help accustom yourself with the job and if you get stumped....the forum is always here