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Anybody here come up with a better switch than these fragile $30 switches? I ran a search but saw no alternatives for the original style switch. Just info about disconnecting, replacing with the same, or adjusting the switch. I'd appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jim
Anybody here come up with a better switch than these fragile $30 switches? I ran a search but saw no alternatives for the original style switch. Just info about disconnecting, replacing with the same, or adjusting the switch. I'd appreciate any help.
Thanks,
Jim
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Just found that I have a broken switch also. When I was disconnecting the wiring, one of the wires broke at the pig tail, so now I have to find one of those too. Anybody have any suggestions?
Just found that I have a broken switch also. When I was disconnecting the wiring, one of the wires broke at the pig tail, so now I have to find one of those too. Anybody have any suggestions?
I have a bunch of old wiring harness that I could cut off that pigtail and send to you.
Hi drw,
The headlight warning light in the center dash cluster should stay illuminated until the the headlight door is fully open when you have the headlights turned on. The button on the switch sends the signal that turns off the light.
Regards,
Alan
I could swallow the $30.00 hit for the [fragile] switch more comfortably if the switch had a metal rather than plastic case and bolt sticking out of it. My '75 currently has a broken headlight switch .
If you don't use your theft alarm I believe the alarm key activates the same switch if you'd like to hang on to your $30.00 a little longer. There aren't any choices for replacing this fragile switch that I've been able to find so far. Do not over tighten the nut when installing these switches as doing so will shorten the time you will get before another $30.00 departs your wallet .
I'm tempted to slather my switches (the good one as well as the broken one) with epoxy to make the switchs break proof. Be careful around the button face. If you go the 'Bubba' epoxy route and the switch dies all you'll need to do is snap the puppy off with some pliers - there isn't anything inside it worth preserving anyway. Don't forget to keep $30.00 handy
RB
Unless someone is a complete klutz, the switches should last the life of the car. One of mine is the 40 year old original. I klutzed the other one 20 years ago thinking I knew what I was doing.
Hi,
Many switches have been damaged/broken by having someone open or close the headlight door by hand. It's the perfect handle to grab when you reach up under there; and the switch's body snaps at the threaded end.
Some people have found the switches sturdy enough to rebuild.
Regards,
Alan
Hi drw,
The headlight warning light in the center dash cluster should stay illuminated until the the headlight door is fully open when you have the headlights turned on. The button on the switch sends the signal that turns off the light.
Regards,
Alan
This just in from the 'You learn something new every day' department: I have owned my '79 for 20 years and I didn't know there was such a system on board. Apparently there is still one part on the car I haven't changed. I'll break out the wiring diagram tonight and see what I have been missing.
Changed both of mine in my 1976, but that was in fact due to my being a knucklehead and overtightening them...the ones in my 1970 are ancient, maybe original. Just get the correct switch and throw it in there and don't overtighten it and it will last a very long time.
It is right below the springs with a white wire going into it from the right side of the picture. Can see a little button it and a nut on the left where it goes through the bracket. It is black, like the picture at the top of the thread.
Depending on how often one's 30 plus year old car was and is driven during a year, icy cold winters [that some of these cars experience] followed by blistering hot roads in the summer likely raises enough hell with plastic (ie. the little switches in question) to make them fragile. Given those extremes it's possible that just every day road and car vibrations have brought many of these switches to an early end. That said, I still view these switches as poorly designed. The load on the switch should have been compressive like the courtesy light switches light on our doors frames.
RB
The post on the switch is actually fused to only half the switch body and due to this poor design along with being made of plastic, these don't take much to break. Maybe I have over-tightned it but I really don't think so... just old and brittle like me.
Thanks for the replies guys... I've done a little sumpin' I'll post a picture of soon for your amusement.
Jim
Here's a crappy picture... I cut 90% off the head of a stainless bolt and epoxied it to the switch. I sanded the switch and bolt head with course grit to give it something to bite/hold onto. Wish me luck!
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Last edited by jimvette999; Apr 24, 2013 at 02:25 PM.
Do you think that a metal-bodied switch would been a better idea with it's obvious exposure to moisture and road debris?
These aren't the originals.... they're about 10 years old and on a garage kept ride. And yes, a metal bodied switch would have been much prefered. These have the stud bonded to half the body as previously mentioned and shown in Alan's picture posting. Maybe a plastic body with the stud bonded to the entire body would have lasted much better. Thanks for your reply/comments.
Jim